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Engine Mounts

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What sort of millage do the engine mounts need to replaced at? I've got engine vibration at low down revs when pulling off. I read the S2 buyers guide in 911 & Porsche World and it mentioned that if the big diamiter pipe from the water pump to the bottom of the radiator is near or touching the chassis arm then it needs replacing. Has this the case with any one? My pipe is about 1 CM away from the arm.
 
Do you know Andriko, I also read that guide and I also read the US 944FAQ which mentions the engine mounts being a common wear and tear item, but in 5 years of ownership and numerous online 944 forums I think I have heard only a handful of people needing to replace them.

I do know our later cars have a revised mount, so maybe this has cured the problem, or they just last longer.
 
Thank you very much for the reply Paul, I was told to about the revised engine mount on later 944's. I'm getting it checked out be Poshewox or Jaz next week to see what the vibration is. It's really only when pulling low down in 2nd and 3rd, maybe there should be a little vibration there.
I'll post an update on inspection.
 
Well it was the right side engine mount. I'm getting in changed tomorrow aswell as the gearbox oil. The cars just turned 68k.
 
Frazerpart were very reasonable for me. 90 quid for the pair and the correct quality. Far better than the original parts.
 
There are 3 options, Genuine Porsche at £135 each, OEM Meyle at £55 each or aftermarket at £35 each. All have been superceeded to the latest version. Bolts are worth changing anyhow, £1.50 each (the prices in that link are a disgrace)
 
I think we can all agree that some "porsche" branded suppliers don't always provide the best value (or service, judging from things I've read over the years)

In my experience, suppliers you can trust include

Frazerpart
Berlyn
Design 911
Type 911

Porsche Centre prices are sometime surprisingly good (and better than suppliers who buy in from Porsche then re-sell..).

Also worth checking eurocarparts / carparts4less sometimes
 
Thanks for the heads up! I've found that eurocarparts have them for either £50 (Q-Drive) or £75 (Meyle).

The cheapest one seems to be a £30 one

http://www.frazerpart.com/acatalog/944__all_models__924S___968_engine_mount.html

I am confused which one to get :D Any experience with longevity on these? Also
 
Avoid the cheaper mounts. They'll not be proper fluid filled parts, they'll be harsh and they wont last. Avoid Pork Chop at all costs. For these Id add JMG to your list of prospective suppliers. The advantage that Jon has is that his practical experience means that he can be sure that he is selling you a fluid filled mount.
 
Just called em up and it's a non-hydraulic mount. :(

Eurocarparts ones seem to be hydraulics.

Edit: Just got two from design911 for £100 and they confirmed it is in fact hydraulic.

Also would I need new bolts for this?

And last Q: Does anyone know where I can get a power steering reservoir? Cheers! (EDIT: Just found out that BMW's use the same part? 32411097164)
 
Double check the ecp Meyle one, when I last checked they were solid, even though they were called hydro mounts or something implying they were fluid filled.
 
I just fitted a pair of Frazer £30 mounts to my S2 and they are spot on .

All the race upgraded mounts are solid mounts , so I do not understand the need for hydraulic engine mounts .

I real ball ache of a job to do , are you fitting them yourself or having them fitted at a garage ?
 
I'm planning on fitting them myself with my dads help. Was just wondering if i need to buy new bolts (it's pretty hard to find them).

Not looking forward, since a lot of people seem to hate doing it.
 
The weight of the engine pushes the engine mount down , so I would say clean up the old ones and refit mate .
Only thing you might find a pain in the back side , are the threads in the mounts and lining them up .
I put a drill bit straight through one side and used a lock nut .

Tip is to disconnect the steering shaft from the top UJ joint just under the clutch fluid pot .

This allows the cross member to drop further down , I undone the bottom arms , so the cross member was free.

Passenger side is easy , but drivers side is a pain .

I sat my 944 on two stands on the chassis legs, some plywood in between. Place a jack under the engine sump , so you can jack up the engine.

If you have access to a two poster ramp ? It is much easier to do .

If you need to replace any bushes on the bottom arms or anti roll bar ? This would be a good time to incorporated into the job in hand.

If you need any support ? You tube is good !! Or ask here as you go along ;)
 
I'm sure when I bought them I got new bolts from the same supplier.

It's a nasty job to do on axle stands in a cold garage, but pretty easy with a lift in a proper workshop. There's a how-to in the FAQ's I think, but in this instance, the long way is the quick way - drop the crossmember. I didn't & it felt like it took me the best part of the weekend, mainly trying to manoeuvre the old mount out & then get the new (taller) one in and seated.
 
turboman, I am pretty sure with all that write-up I am covered for all possibilities. Thank you! Looks like I am going on a youtube search after this. It's one of those things that in theory, sounds simple, but in practice is a pita.

And yes, it will be in a cold garage on axle stands. Really not looking forward to that.

But so far in my understanding: push the engine up a bit, drop the cross member, take the old one out, slide the new one in. How difficult can it get right?

(You'll hear back from me as to how I found it :D )
 
For some reason Porsche originally specified the 924S to have the solid mounts and the 944 models to all have the hydraulic ones.

Unusually, even on the 924S, the solid mounts only seem to last a couple of years.. But the 944 parts last 10 to 15 years as a rule, so not sure why they ever specified a solid mount for the 924S.

Anyway, the 924S parts are the ones you get from almost all the suppliers as a rule, and as someone has mentioned, I do not blame the suppliers for thinking they are hydraulic, due to the wording on the box they come in.

One quick trick to know if you need mounts or not, on the 8v cars, the lower distributor screw centre line should be above the top of the bar that goes between the headlights, only just, but it should be.. Once they are shot the screw becomes harder to access as it sinks lower and lower in line with the bar, making it hard to get a screwdriver onto it.

The official way is to measure the distance between the flanges on the mounts, but that involves getting under the car, taking the under trays off and then wishing you had two elbows in each arm, unless you have a lift, but even then it can be a pain.
 
Hi Jon, in my case I did not have to measure anything ! The vibration from the steering Column was shocking on acceleration . It felt as if the car was shaking it self t peace's !

The engine mount bracket from the engine was vibrating the steering Column , feels like a new car now and so much nicer to drive :)

Lee , I removed the steering rack away from the cross member , but left the track rod ends still attached to the hubs .

I would say just take your time and make sure that you tighten all big bolts up nice and tight when you rebuild it all .
I tend to do a QC check all nuts are tight .
If you need any guidance through out the job , me or Jon will be more that willing to talk you through it mate :)

Us 944 freaks are a rare breed and stick together like Lemmings :)


 

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