Ok, so found a bit of time to do a write up of how to change engine mounts:
1. Get the car in the air at the front on axle stands - use the chassis rails going backwards from the rear alloy wishbone mounts.
2. Remove the plastic undertray and front wheels.
3. Using a trolley jack and a thick piece of wood to spread the load, take the weight off the engine under the sump - doesn't have to lift it, just take the weight off.
4. Remove the top and bottom (not sure the S2 has both) heat shields surrounding the steering shaft, then undo and remove the pinch bolts at both ends of the steering shaft, mark the location of the shaft relative to the steering rack and the top end near the bulk head using white paint/ liquid paper.
5. Undo the 4 x 13mm bolts that connect the steering rack to the front crossmember so that the rack is loose, you can if necessary remove the rack from the steering knuckles using a ball joint cracker.
6. Undo the pinch bolts holding the front hubs to the track control arms, then using a ball joint cracker or taper extract the ball joints from the hubs.
7. Using a 17mm spanner or socket, undo the large nut that sits at the end of the front crossmember and locates the engine mounts to the cross member - access can be difficult because the front track control arm bushes are in the way.
8. Double check the load is off the engine with the jack/ wood.
9. Using another jack, take the load off the front crossmember, you can now lower this very gently by undoing the 4 x 17mm bolts at the rear of the track control arms and the 4 x large 19mm bolts that hold the cross member to the chassis rails. - Do not drop it down completely !
10. wriggle the steering rack around and disconnect and remove the steering shaft completely - this can be quite awkward but it will come eventually.
11. Now slowly drop the front cross member - you may have assist the engine mounts coming out of their 'sockets' in the cross member with a crow bar.
12. With the cross-member low you should have access to the top bolts for the engine mounts = 4 x 13mm bolts and spacers
13. The new engine mounts are slightly different and may require shorter bolts, these are straight forward 13mm metric bolts with a shank so don't buy porsche ones.
14. Refit the engine mounts loosely with the new bolts, then reverse steps for all of the above.
Although the above method involves the engine weight on the sump, provided you spread the load and are careful you shouldn't have a problem, remember Tony installed his engine via this method. I tried the suspend the engine from the top method using a support bar - this is OK if you supsend it at both ends of the engine, even then because of the canted angle the engine will tend to twist slightly and re aligning it is very difficult. By jacking under the sump which is flat the engine moves in single upwards/downwards plane.
Your biggest problem is likely to be accessing and undoing bolts that haven't been apart for > a decade, be patient and they will come. Make sure you use the torque figures in the manual for the correct tension when reinstalling.
As always I'm no expert on this, just an enthusiast who's learnt by hours of huffing and chuffing under the car !
Always happy to assist and provide moral support by phone - 07540 193874
