Cold Starting (Again!)

[Guest]

Well I'm finally reunited with the 12, and we had a glorious run up the M4 yesterday (Even got a smile from a lady in an early 911S!).

But the cold starting is bugging me now. It took about 8 attempts this morning, and I gave up in the end. Where do I start to sort it out?

Help!


Matt

 

[Evil J Guano]

Here is the starting procedure when cold...

Pump the throttle, keep clutch depressed, then turn on ignition. It should catch after two goes or so.

When hot, keep throttle to floor.

(keeping the clutch depressed lets the engine spin more freely. helping your starting, less battery drain etc)

If you are doing the above, then let us know, and we can trouble shoot from there.

 

[Guest]

Gavin,

I followed this procedure after your previous reply, and after checking the manual. It tends to catch OK when warm, but cold is a real struggle. It seems like there's enough juice coming from the battery as it's turning over OK. Someone mentioned checking the automatic choke solenoid - is that right? It's just had a new fuel pump so that should be OK, and the previous owner had the carbs checked over.

Could it be the plugs or timing?

 

[Nick Moss]

As far as I know there is no choke or other cold starting device apart from the accelerator pumps.

It could be worth checking the plugs, points timing etc to reduce the chance of problems. Apart from that it could be that the carbs need cleaning or the amount of fuel being delivered by the accel pumps is not enought, so just pump a few more times!

 

[Guest]

No choke - lol - that was one of my first questions ages ago ....and indeed it doesn't have a choke (aircooled stays slightly warmer then liquids on cold days).

Same thing though - pumped throttle a few times to get started while always keeping cluth depressed to lessen load on starter AND most importantly to un-stick any stuck clutch plates (I always put her into first gear when parked - too many stories of failed handbrakes and cars rolling away to risk it even on flat ground)(BTW my solexes seem to dump fuel by the load on idle anyway (rich sweet smell from exhaust gives tell-tale sign - even when warm and burning more efficiently) so this may be why I dont have any major problems starting her .... oh yes I need to delicately pump the throttle/rev it slightly - once it starts catching (firing a couple of cylinders) and slowly it picks up the other cyliners and begins to fire all four eventually lol ....he he part of the old timer fun.

I think you chaps are getting the picture as to the real condition of my old car

Of course the tiny pilot jets on the carbs can get clogged up out of the blue, and this could equaly cause the problem. Personaly I would check the ignition system as this is fairly easy to do (points gap and profile (replace if pitted etc) ) spark plugs (can be faulty from new as well - gaps) and see how this helps - also condensation is a bummer and can cause so many headaches - now I love to use WD40 on electrical systems (HT leads are particularly prone to allowing moisture through - also check the inside of Distributor cap prior to starting and look for condensation - WD40 the inside of cap, and make sure you wipe off ALL the excess inside carefully.

Also I seem to have the old starter system which sometimes starts the starter, and other times just puts on the ignition light with no turn-over - heard this was simple matter of adding a solenoid to the starting circuit (hate electrics at the best of times) - to bring up to date...

Matt ? do you have this problem sometimes ??

 

[Guest]

Dimitri,

Bugger - won't be the choke then! Mine's a '69 so maybe doesn't count as the older system? It's not even freezing cold at the moment so I'm dreading it when it get's more nippy!

 

[912UK]

Matt I have the same problem I only run my car every few weeks or so and it can be a **** to start. Once it goes it's fine. I am looking in to getting a new coil and that pertronics kit for the disy .

The plugs are new the leads also and the carbs have been rebuilt. I have thought about the carb bowls being empty though evaportaion so there for the car is a pig to start eg no fuel in there. hmmm keep posting

Mark

 

[Guest]

Cheers Mark,

What's the pertronix kit? I get the feeling that it's getign the juice into the carbs as once running it's all fine.

Matt

 

[Evil J Guano]

Pertronix is a breakerless ignition system. It replaces the points.

I think what you need to do Matt is trouble-shoot the entire system.
Starting with the Generator > Battery > Regulator > Coil > Points > HT lead > Plug leads > Plugs... then the Fuel system.

I would guess it is more likely to be an electrical problem. Blocked jets or fuel starvation would affect the driving/idling badly, which isn't occuring(?)

It may be a combination of a few poor components, I know when I replaced my plug leads with proper Beru leads (not the cheapo VW ones the PO had used) it made a massive difference.

So, get the battery and Generator checked out at a Auto Elec shop, the gen will produce a useful charge above 2000 rpm or so.

Replace leads, coil, points and plugs

See what transpires...

 

[Guest]

petronix - contactless (no points) ignition system - replaces your points essentialy, so no need to manualy adjust gaps on your points etc on the distributor.

http://www.statesidetuning.co.uk/catalogue/ignition.htm

have a look - sure there will be better out there as regards price, but has the right stuff to see listed at least.

Bosch Blue (sports) coil (or crane ps20 20 to 50% more output than std coils)
Bosch 050 distributor - Mark recommends Euro Car parts must ask for it)
Petronix or (Crane 700 series digital performance kit with amplifier box £93.50 - supposed to be good ?)

hope it helps - got to get this stuff myself soonish
PS - did see somewhere a choke kit for Solex carbs but no idea where - Google ? search

 

[Evil J Guano]

http://www.pertronix.com/

 

[Guest]

Gents thanks - At least now I have a plan!

I will keep you posted.

Matt

 

[912UK]

I am going to get the blue coil as mine must be the org unit. The leads as Gav said are Beru (my Dad sold out to them grrr ) Then the Phertronics. Once I have had the car tuned and the float level checked and the identification of the jets in the carb to make sure they are the right ones.

That Crane thing Andy showed me one it's got about 50 boxes to it and weights a bout 20 stone!!!!!

The Euro car parts place I got a bosch 050 the other month for £87 del

Nik says ( and I don't doubt him ) they are advertising them for £130+ I think a phone call to them is in order.. Ihave the receipt still here....

Mark

 

[912UK]

state side price seams about right it's only£40 in the US hmmmm any one going ......

Mark

I want two


and a bursch exhaust

and a set of Shasta pistons and barrels

and a new set of J tubes

Oh and a front clip for a 54 356

err a gear box for the 54 and oh you didn't want to bring any clothes back with you did you....[]