Clucth pedal dropping away,

[T3rra]

This was very occasional issue over the last 3000 miles. I would lightly press the clutch pedal and it would get sucked away from me dropping 2 the floor but not disengaging the engine. Would happen very irregular, sometimes 3 times in a short drive then not again 4 500 miles.

Well now it's happening with every gear change. It dose this with the car even on as well, u could lightly press the clutch with your fingers or foot, then it would just fall away from you.

When it is working right, it makes a popping noise.

Fluid levels seem fine, and there's no wet carpets or sipage that I can see.

Iv got a new ish slave on the black car, but I'm sure b4 when it was the slave it just wasn't returning?

Any ideas

944 turbo 88
Thanks

 

[944Fripp]

Sounds like there's an air pocket in the clutch hydraulic system.

If its not leaking it needs bleeding properly. They're not that easy to bleed and in my experience you need someone who knows what they're doing to get it right!

Another problem could be that the pedal is not adjusted correctly. The adjustment on the push rod into the master cylinder is very fine and again needs to be set by experienced hands!

Finally it could be the rubber doughnut on the clutch giving way. I don't have any experience of this one though and i dont even know if 88 turbos were fitted with them but I'm sure others here will make comment on this as ive seen it come up many times.

My money is on an incorrectly bled hydraulic system though!

 

[DavidL]

I managed to bleed mine with an easibleed without too much trouble. Just don't use too much pressure!

 

[bert gear]

Forget rubber doughnut, adjustment etc
the trouble is a hydrolic one, if you are not loosing fluid from the Reservoir then its a faulty master cylinder. loosing fluid its the slave or a leaky hose

 

[T3rra]

This is what I had thought, as the popping noise sounds like its coming from that area. Was going 2 swap out the slave anyway as its a new item on my parts car. Will take the master with me also


Hopefully be all sorted by the end off the day

 

[edh]

I've had a similar problem on my S2 - not quite the same, but the clutch pedal occasionally doesn't return properly & you have to hook the pedal back up with your toe. There is a fair amount of resistance to it when you pull it back up.

I talked to the guys at ph - there's no sign of leaks, so we think one of the cylinders is faulty - either seals failing or possibly corrosion on the cylinder wall stopping the piston returning properly. First time it happened was on the way to Donington for a trackday! It was fine on the track, but I'm not confident to leave it as it's bound to fail sooner or later. I particularly didn't want it to fail during my autumn ring/Spa trip so have asked ph to swap both for me. (Feeling too lazy to do it myself..)

 

[T3rra]

Removed the system today from the parts car. And noticed the clutch pedal dose the same thing without the system there at all.

Should the push rod come away from the master completely? Just wonder why no one just swaps the push rods out rather then counting the treads when setting length off new one.


Also wheres the best place 2 buy a new master and hose?

Euro car parts want £90 4 the master

Anyone ran just one feilx hose from cylinder 2 cylinder? Dose anyone make and sell one ? Like braided?

 

[bert gear]

i can do for 70 plus vat

 

[T3rra]

It was the master cylinder that was at faulty. Changed the slave 1st bleed. Pedal still dropping/ pulling away.

Replaced the master with one from my parts car, bleed and all is good. Prob won't be long till I need 2 do it all again with a new master.

So in my exprence,
slave pedal depressed no spring back.
Master pedal pulls away depressing it self, no spring back.


Side note, heat sheld round the starter motor makes this job a huge pain in the arse, as u can't remove the sheld completely given even more limited room. I also jack car up from the front, ( front higher then back ) and bleed by the pedal.