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Cheap HP gains for turbo newcomers

Octane rating will have two effects, however it is relative. So if you are running at eg 1 bar boost then it's academic. If you want to run at eg 1.5 bar (with the correct supporting mods) then it will be very much dependent on what octane is in the tank. Now just to throw what our American friends call a curve ball, running the lowest octane fuel possible without risking detonation will actually give you a better burn. I run 1-1.2 bar on our 98 super unleaded. On E85 I could easily run 1.7bar on the streets. It just burns so much cooler than normal pump fuel. I could run that on the track too, however even though the E85 will handle the detonation factor, there is a very real possibility that there will be head lift at those pressures sustained on the track. We have had a couple of times where there has been coolant leaking into the cylinders due to this. However believe it or not, I have been able to drive home each time because we use a metal headgasket and they just re seal! So even though we replaced it back at the workshop, the ability to drive home especially from the track 2.5 hours away instead of getting towed is a real bonus. Now we replaced the old original headstuds with some new ARPs and wind the boost down for reliability.

Back to the question though. Sounds like the Promax kits are well worth it. Even though at the time of purchase it's a bit of a chunk of money to outlay, the savings are immeasurable vs redoing headgaskets (at best) to whole motors (at worst). That they are proven, have backup, solid improvements, and not just peak hp numbers but much nicer driveability, makes the purchase price disappear when compared to the alternatives. This is not an advertisement for Promax, nor clearly do I have any affiliation with them, just based on what I've read and what I've experienced with my own builds.
 
ORIGINAL: homesea

Andrew

What type of fuel are the ProMax chips mapped for? Reason I ask is my car seems to go better with normal un-leaded then with the Tesco Super.(I have your Chips installed I guess!!)

Tom.
Hi Tom,

All ProMAX chips are optimised (and were originaly developed) using BP Ultimate fuel (97 RON).

Reards,
Andrew
 
Hi James,

A wide-band O2 sensor can detect the exhaust's O2 content way below or above the perfect 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio. A narrow band Lamda sensor has a limited range of measurement - a wideband has a much wider range either side of the desired 14.7:1 AFR. Most wideband O2 sensors also react far quicker, which is very useful on Turbo cars for detecting a sudden lean condition.

Regards,
Andrew
 
. . . I should add that 14.7:1 is the ratio of air to fuel where a 100% burn occurs with no residue or reactants remain (i.e. 100% reaction). 14.7 is the value for petrol and a car's ECU will attempt to achieve 14.7:1 under most conditions.

Under certain circumstances, a richer ratio of fuel to air is required (especially in forced induction) - especially under hard acceleration.

A good quality wideband O2 sensor can be used to drive a dynamic ECU. Later cars with Catalytic Converters need to burn as close to 14.7:1 as possible, hence 1990 model onwards Porsche models all had a Lambda sensor linked to the ECU (equivalent to narrow band).

Regards,
Andrew
 
The innovate LC-1 kit is usually the brand of choice. The gauge is very good and it uses the 5 wire bosch sensor. That's what I have fitted and it works a treat. During normal sedate driving it reads about 14.2 - 14.5 and then reads about 12.2 when I have the foot buried. I often wonder about tickover though as it now idles at around 13.2. I thought maybe I should check my DME temp sensor but then again I think it's more likey to be the ISV as the car is off map when it idles. Ideas anyone?
 
Well something that can cause misreads is an exhaust leak so you might have your AFRs spot on but the exhaust leak will give you a skewed reading.
 

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