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Cars giving me headaches!

Well just started up and seen some sparks (looked almost staticish) the sparks are on the leads where it looks like it might have rubbed against the manifold, so know they need replacing so shall look at ordering some tomorrow hopefully, I couldnt see anything around the distributor cap (but couldn't put any rev's on it (if that'd make any difference) as darn't do it 00:40 lol). Will what looks like only a tiny bit of static sparks make all that much difference or could there be anything else lurking about elsewhere do you think? cheers
 
Water will absorb into the exhaust at this time of year, its a by product of combustion and there will be condensation forming even if it is not running. If the sparks are escaping out of the leads there wont be as much energy reaching the plugs. My old lux was much smoother when I replaced the leads, but they were about 20 years old and gave a nice light show in the dark. When the air is damp the escaping sparks find it easier to escape. Tony
 
fair enough man cheers for the information :) Bought a new set of leads today which should be here tomorrow, and hopefully sort the issue out. So over the next few days when I get the chance around my truly awful night shifts I have this week I have them to fit, water temp sensor and oil pressure sendor then fingers crossed that should be everything sorted for now (taps wood repeatedly).
 
Plug leads must be the easiest fix - so let's hope it works One dirty plug is a good sign / clue and would correspond with one failing lead. I'd have thought that rules out stuff like ISV and FPR anyway. Just a thought - why don't you replace the lead on the dirty plug first, and see how it runs with just that one changed. While you're at it, whip off the distributor cap and see what state that's in.
 
If only it was as easy as the dirty plug and faulty lead. The faulty lead is differnt to the dirty plug, also though if I just change all of the leads now it should mean I wont have to worry about them ever (or for a long time) again, as some of the rubber on closer inspection looks like its becoming brittle with age as well. Been considering doing that and seeing its state and going to go through its history and see when it was last replaced and possibly do that next pay day for a little more peace of mind if the leads work.
 
ORIGINAL: WBray Just checked, even with the car running the light remains on with the switch and wont turn off. I can lock and unlock the drivers door using the passengers door put it wont do its own, the pin moves up a little then drops back in place. I wont be pulled up wont open from the inside or outside and the light on the drivers pin still flashes :mad: Just read somewhere I may have to take the doorcard off and look at the latch mech but cant even open the door so dont know how that would work :/
Not been anywhere near one of those electric dog containment fences lately have you ? Its a wire around the property creating a energy field and the dogs wear electric collars. if they stray outside the field they get an electric pulse or vibration or something ![:D] Both of my cars central locking systems packed up when I drove up the driveway of a friends house a couple of years ago.[:mad:] One time it locked me into the car and I couldn't get out to speak to him . Felt a right twit. Even opening the window and operating the door handle from the outside wouldn't open the door. you could try removing the battery terminal so that it resets the central locking system
 
lol no I dont think ive happened to be near any, thank god they sound awful for the poor dogs, though think of the drunk fun you could have with an electrical set up like that! Lol just in time to make you look smooth climbing in and out the windows then? Found I think the problem luckily for me was just a stiff handle, managed to get the door open sprayed some wd40 inside the handle and seem's (touch wood) to be working properly again.
 

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