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camber queery

cococola

New member
I had my caster and camber set up today at a decent tyre centre and when I look at the paper work they have entered my details as a 1990 to 1991 model when in fact my car is a 1986 year on a private plate.
Does this make a difference on my year as the print out showed that the camber was out on the front aswell as the left rear.
many thanks
 
If what you mean is that the numbers on the piece of paper are wrong then no, it makes no difference at all.

If you mean you are concerned that you have the wrong settings on your car then that's a bit different. The listed settings changed a bit from year to year, and the general advice is to choose the year with the most aggressive settings and have those installed. You will need to compare the settings you have had set and the settings you wanted.

In fact, it may make more sense to start with the question "What did you want from the geometry set-up?"


Oli.
 
I had replaced both front and rear suspension shocks and wanted to make sure everything was set up correctly to avoid tyre scrubbing.The equipment was a fancy digital set up and wonder weather the settings are created by the data entered in (year of car)or weather the sensors and equipment point out the settings required.
 
The data for every car is stored on the computer. When I had mine done I took the data with me from the manual but they put the car and it was spot on. I actually think it came up as 1991 year when they put in 944 Turbo, which I was alittle concerened about at first but a quick comparison to the Porsche data proved it to be spot on.
 
Hi Reading as follow

LHF CAMBER -1* 12 NOW SET -1*51
LHF TOE -0*02 NOW SET O*03
LHR CAMBER -1*25 NOW SET -1*27
LHR TOE 0*11 NOW SET 0*08

CTRE TOTAL TOE 0*02 NOW SET 0*06
STEER AHEAD -0*03 NOW SET 0*00
TOTAL TOE 0*20 NOW SET 0*21
THRUST ANGLE 0*01 NOW SET -0*02

RHF CAMBER -0*23 NOW SET -0*01
RHF TOE 0*03 NOW SET 0*03
RHR CAMBER -1*02 NOW SET -1*05
RHR TOE 0*09 NOW SET 0*13
If anybody can shed some light on these figures I would be gratefull

many thanks
 
Well ide say your front camber is still out.
The lhf + rhf dont match and they should....

And your rear toe,s are different aswell....They should be the same....

Basically , whatever settings you have on one side should be mirrored on the other, unless your driving a Nascar or stock car, which just goes round in circles...

I cant comment on the actual numbers as im not sure what are the base line settings for a road car...
 
I'm with Dave. The two sides should be exactly the same, ideally. There will be a permitted tolerance of difference between the two sides, but those L and R readings you have are quite different, making the car asymmetrical. This will mean it won't behave the same going left and going right, and (very very worst case scenario) could be unstable under heavy braking.

Might it be a good idea to go back to the place that did the work and politely ask about the fact that the two sides aren't the same?


Oli.
 
sorry I don't agree my LHS AND RHS settings are different to allow for road camber and makes a big difference on the road.
Still not bottomed running issues , today all fine again.Will plumb for new FPR AND HOPE IT IS THIS !

Nick [:D]
 

ORIGINAL: eddieedmo

sorry I don't agree my LHS AND RHS settings are different to allow for road camber and makes a big difference on the road.

Nick [:D]


Why?........................how come the big difference as the difference between a heavily cambered single country lane and a 4 lane motorway or dual carriageway is massive so on one or the other you`ll tend to be riding on an edge with one wheel or another - and at high speed...................................?????


RHF CAMBER -0*23 NOW SET -0*01
RHF TOE 0*03 NOW SET 0*03
RHR CAMBER -1*02 NOW SET -1*05
RHR TOE 0*09 NOW SET 0*13

I would take it back and ask them to find someone who knows what they are doing. Camber can be out a little (a few minutes here and there) but thats almost a degree! - miles too much difference and he rear toe has been made worse.

The thrust angle is a result of the settings so has changed (is worse) because of them.

Was the tracking set before or after the camber - it should always be after?
 
I agree with Paul, the numbers posted tell me they have mucked your car up more than it was and thus wasted your time and money. Thrust angle worse than before, good grief. The crazy thing is I know of an outfit that can make these cars track straight as a die and all they use is a cheapo Dunlop optical alignment rig (you can buy one yourself for under 500 notes).
 
The setting I was given for a 89 car are:

FRONT CAMBER -20'
FRONT TOTAL TOE +1.2mm
FRONT HALF-TOE +0.6mm

REAR CAMBER -25'
REAR TOTAL TOE 0mm
REAR HALF-TOE 0mm

You dont say about the caster that I was given as 2*30'
 

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