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Belt change interval

chrisg

Member
Evening All !

Now that the weather has turned cold and the nights are starting to draw in, I was pondering my winter project ( Rear brake and fuel lines last year..).

Can someone remind me of the belt (balance & cam) change interval ? Looking at my notes on the car it's ~ 2yrs and 9,000 miles since the engine was rebuilt with new belts. Just wondering when I should be planning to change the belts and in doing so, change the front crank oil seal ?

yours

Chris
 
Is it leaking from the front crank oil seal?

If not, leave it alone. 4 years or 40,000 miles is a suitably conservative belt change interval.
 
Yep, front crankshaft oil seal - enough to cover most of the underneath of the car with oil. Not massive amounts but enough to be annoying. TBH, if 4yrs is the recommended interval I will probably leave wel alone for at least a year
 
If oil is getting on the belt it could degrade and fail; I changed one at only a year old because the specialist wasn't confident that I wouldn't have a problem. If not, four years with your mileage should be fine, but perhaps doing it sooner stops you worrying about it. [&:]
 
Chris,

Do you mind if I hijack this thread and ask how you sorted your rear brake and fuel lines. I have exactly the same problem and the MOT tester advised me to sort it this year.
Did you drop the rear axle or put flexible fuel lines in?

Thanks,

Rob
 
Rob

No problem at all !

The way I went about it was to drop the rear axle (using Clarks manual as a guide). I then using the original as guides (still got them available if needed) all the brakes pipes making up new ones from copper nickel.

I took the complete fuel lines to my hydraulic pipes chap who replaced the front flexible pipes into the fuel rail and provided flexi SS rear hoses - it was only the section under the axle that was rusty, full length of the car was fine.

Anyhow, long job but relatively straight forward. Feel free to ring or email me directly if you want to chat in more detail about axle removal, brake pipe bending, removing rusted in bushes etc

07540 193874

chrisgrahame@yahoo.co.uk
 
Did you drop the rear axle or put flexible fuel lines in?

I've done both of my cars. One had a simple flexi pipe fitted at the local garage as it was pouring out and not driveable. About £100 all-in, and when I raised concerns about joints, pressures etc. he laughed. It's only a car, like any other.

The second time I had the RPM braided lines, cheaper than the OEM option. Still worked out at a pretty scary price, though, and I think I'd go the cheap route if I had to do it again.
 
Hi Paujmcnulty...may i ask how much did it cost for the RPM braided lines to replace the oem ones ?

Op....sorry for the hi-jack :)
 
I went the flexi steel braided route. I'd go cheap rubber if doing it again, purely on cost basis. It was about £700 from memory.
 
Wow that seems alot for a few braided hose James !!!

ORIGINAL: James Ball

I went the flexi steel braided route. I'd go cheap rubber if doing it again, purely on cost basis. It was about £700 from memory.
 
Wow that seems alot for a few braided hose James !!!

That's about what mine worked out at as well. It's not just the hoses themselves ( the RPM kit is specially made ), it's a lot of labour as well. Then you add 20% to everything, which is a large part of a bill now. [:mad:]
 

ORIGINAL: chrisg

Rob

No problem at all !

The way I went about it was to drop the rear axle (using Clarks manual as a guide). I then using the original as guides (still got them available if needed) all the brakes pipes making up new ones from copper nickel.

I took the complete fuel lines to my hydraulic pipes chap who replaced the front flexible pipes into the fuel rail and provided flexi SS rear hoses - it was only the section under the axle that was rusty, full length of the car was fine.

Anyhow, long job but relatively straight forward. Feel free to ring or email me directly if you want to chat in more detail about axle removal, brake pipe bending, removing rusted in bushes etc

07540 193874

chrisgrahame@yahoo.co.uk

Thanks very much Chris, I'll drop you an email.
 

ORIGINAL: bighead

Wow that seems alot for a few braided hose James !!!

I had mine all replaced with the factory parts a few years ago. I had the brake pipes all done at the same time and also the bushes needed doing when they lowered the rear suspension. Most cars bushes will be shot by now and you just don't know how bad they are until you have new ones.

The factory shaped lines are only around £150 if my memory is correct and most of the cost is labour. I don't understand how fitting aftermarket flexi lines can be anywhere near £700 as you don't need to lower the suspension and rack up all that labour charge????
 
Probably an easy question for anyone here who's replaced with rigid fuel lines... how much do you actually have to drop from the rear of the car...
Is it the gearbox/transaxle or just the suspension? Which is the relevant bit on Clakes garage (I can only find instructions how to remove the whole transaxle).
 

exactly my point !!...but then they(garage) have to make a "living" so...........
ORIGINAL: Diver944


ORIGINAL: bighead

Wow that seems alot for a few braided hose James !!!

I had mine all replaced with the factory parts a few years ago. I had the brake pipes all done at the same time and also the bushes needed doing when they lowered the rear suspension. Most cars bushes will be shot by now and you just don't know how bad they are until you have new ones.

The factory shaped lines are only around £150 if my memory is correct and most of the cost is labour. I don't understand how fitting aftermarket flexi lines can be anywhere near £700 as you don't need to lower the suspension and rack up all that labour charge????
 

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