944 design faults / flaws

[zcacogp]

Chaps,

I love 944's. We all love 944's In fact, that's why we are here - this is a 944 enthusiasts club!

>AppreciativeMutualBack-SlappingAndWarmFeelingGoesHere<[]

But 944's aren't perfect. They have several design flaws and there are certainly areas that could be improved. The design of the earlier (rubber) rear spoilers for a start; those drain holes to prevent rainwater from puddling on top of them block far too easily (particularly if you park under a tree) and then you get a small swimming pool on the boot, which leaks in. Clearing them is a fiddle - and a frequent fiddle for people who don't have garages.

The Brembo brake calipers are another example - the aluminium and steel mix, causing electrolytic corrosion and plate lift. That could have been done much better with a bit more thought ....

... and the trim pieces on the underneath of the S2/turbo front wings. A rust trap waiting to corrode. Looks to me like it was done in a bit of a rush mid-way through the production cycle and not fully thought through.

What else? Things that could have been designed (or made) better with no loss of original functionality, no significant increase in weight or extra cost, given the technology and production capabilities of the time. List 'em up here!


Oli.

 

[Lowtimer]

Since you ask, and since various aspects of it have been annoying me since I got the car two and a half years ago, what is it with this absurd and ridiculous boot latching and release mechanism? The whole business with the stupid pins, the jaws that may or may not grasp them, and the incredible Heath Robinson linkage that is supposed to pull the cables that release them. (Having overhauled my hatch release motor to perfection, guess what, the linkage that it drives has just fallen to pieces and now I can't get into the boot AGAIN).

Why can't we just have an actual mechanical latch, like that used by any other hatchback, worked by a lock that operates directly off a key...
... rather than a key that works a switch that triggers a motor that pushes on a bellcrank that pulls cables that release two pairs of jaws that release two pins that may or may not then allow the hatch to open?

And the ways that the pins let water in, unless the seals are absolutely perfect, requiring their seats to have their own drain tubes, is another mini comedy.

Incidentally I need some linkage parts off a late scrapper with electric hatch release, if anyone is scrapping one...

 

[944Scott]

There is plenty that could have been done better in the engine bay too, everytime I do something it seems I have to use 20 different tools to do one job.

 

[944Turbo]

the rear number plate light fixings.
Tony

 

[colin944]

Sill design.924 is much better simpler and less of a rot trap. Also why go to the bother of fitting alloy light weight wheel nuts and then put door mirrors on that are 3 ton each.

 

[Andre]

Light wheel nuts, unsprung weight benefit. But realistically only with something like Fuchs rather than the heavier D90's etc. But on that subject the light weight locking wheel nut sleeves, the type with the key, really?!

 

[Catamax944]

Why can't we just have an actual mechanical latch, like that used by any other hatchback, worked by a lock that operates directly off a key...
... rather than a key that works a switch that triggers a motor that pushes on a bellcrank that pulls cables that release two pairs of jaws that release two pins that may or may not then allow the hatch to open?

And the ways that the pins let water in, unless the seals are absolutely perfect, requiring their seats to have their own drain tubes, is another mini comedy.

Incidentally I need some linkage parts off a late scrapper with electric hatch release, if anyone is scrapping one...

Why dont you install the normal one "worked by a lock that operates directly off a key" , that's how mine is and it always worked perfectly .Only thing i did was to remove the electric motor that opens it from the inside and that was for weight purposes.

 

[Catamax944]

Why did they go from steel wishbones to alloy,for race aplications i can see the advantage of increased strength but for street cars i can't see any improvement.
In case of an accident they break ,steel just bends and absorbes better the impact, the ball joints fail and they didn't offer a factory rebuild kit ,they are extremely expensive to buy and i think also to produce. The single advantage i could think of would be that they dont rust but for the price i prefer to change the steel ones every 10 years or so.
Actually i did change my alloy wishbones with the steel ones and it cost me £100 including poly bushes and ball joints ,all new.

 

[os951]

Most of those things you mentioned is mainly problem in UK..... Seems to me your climate is just too much for these old cars. I can hardly see any rusty 944's here in Finland. Rear spoiler is not any problem if you just push it gently when washing your 944. Water cleans all nasty things off in few seconds. Even though i prefer Brembo Monoblocks, place lift is not any problem.You just don't have it when you overhaul calipers for example once a year. If there is a lot of dirt and brake dust, you have a plate lift. If you keep them clean, you're just fine. Boot latches work very well, even 25-30 years old ones. Key issue is to service them about once a year. Keep them clean and well lubricated. It's just a simple fact: You must service your 944. All other brands needs to be serviced, and so does 944 models. What comes to engine room in 944 Turbo models; engine room was designed for modified Audi 2.0L engine. 944 2.5L was more or less OK, but when they added a turbo charger, it was just too much. A bad design was made in the early '70's. Front control arm design is also great.Tell me some other car where you still might have 25 year old ball joints? If your ball joints are worn out, it's easy to change them. Different brand kits are available.If you don't want to do it by your self; kits reconditioned arms are available. You just have to forgive your 944 faults. It was a great car when it was designed; it still is. What it needs now when it is old, is your TLC []

 

[GlennS]

OK, I'll play.

1. The rather silly idea of putting the battery in the boot of a car which can only be opened by electrical power... rectified in the 968, I believe, by a emergency cable release in the door pillar so even Porsche (belatedly) realised it was stupid.

2. Air filter location on the S2. Whose bright idea was it to place a "service item" such as an air filter where you have to remove a body panel to gain access?

 

[jonk]

Small item it may be but I'm with Tony on this. Number plate lights drive me into an apoplexy....

 

[os951]

1. The rather silly idea of putting the battery in the boot of a car which can only be opened by electrical power... rectified in the 968, I believe, by a emergency cable release in the door pillar so even Porsche (belatedly) realised it was stupid.

944 was first designed to be a LHD car...... It's only a RHD problem.All 944 hatches up to 1988 can be opened manually. It's a problem with 1988 Turbo S and all 1989-91 944 models

 

[Pastry]

Cleaning the spoiler drain holes is a 2 minute job with a pipe cleaner. ;p just do it when you wash the car

 

[Suffolk944]

All of the above plus the centre console switches that don't illumnate at night.....[8|]

 

[Lowtimer]

ORIGINAL: Catamax944

Why can't we just have an actual mechanical latch, like that used by any other hatchback, worked by a lock that operates directly off a key...
... rather than a key that works a switch that triggers a motor that pushes on a bellcrank that pulls cables that release two pairs of jaws that release two pins that may or may not then allow the hatch to open?

And the ways that the pins let water in, unless the seals are absolutely perfect, requiring their seats to have their own drain tubes, is another mini comedy.

Incidentally I need some linkage parts off a late scrapper with electric hatch release, if anyone is scrapping one...

Why dont you install the normal one "worked by a lock that operates directly off a key" , that's how mine is and it always worked perfectly .Only thing i did was to remove the electric motor that opens it from the inside and that was for weight purposes.

Surely the key does not directly operate a latch on yours, does it? I mean the way it does on an ordinary hatch, like on a Manta or Capri or Scirocco. It must still do something which pulls on the cables which open the jaws which release the hatch pins, unless you have a very different kind of hatch securing mechanism.

Mine is the normal equipment for a late car, certainly a late RHD car, as Olli indicates above. Is yours an LHD or pre 1989 model? If I remove the electric motor on mine, there is no way to open the hatch with or without the key except by crawling into the boot from inside the car and pulling the cables manually. If there is a recognised set of parts available to change from this unpleasant arrangement, possibly parts used by the RHD 968 CS, I am tempted to look into it. All I need is to find someone with a 968 CS so I can identify what parts I would need.

As I understand it, the 968 CS manual cable release can only be operated from inside the cabin: there is no external release at the back of the car and the keyhole and lock mechanism are removed and blanked off.

 

[edh]

I'm surprised no-one has mentioned...

OIL FILTER []

 

[homesea]

854 screws to remove the undertray!

 

[944 man]

ORIGINAL: Lowtimer

As I understand it, the 968 CS manual cable release can only be operated from inside the cabin: there is no external release at the back of the car and the keyhole and lock mechanism are removed and blanked off.

As you suspect, the CS uses a bowden cable to operate an older type mechanical catch. Anyone with a 1989> electrical catch can retro-fit the earlier mechanical catch too, if they wish.

 

[Lowtimer]

that's me off down to see the parts man, then...

 

[944 man]

I removed the electric motor and associated gubbins from my hill climb car, blanked the lock and fitted a bowden cable.