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3ltr conversion. Turns over but wont start. Help

944Volks

New member
Hi guys.​
This is annoying now. What am I missing?​
Drove car into garage.​
Did quite abit of work to it! Now just won't start.​
Turns over.​
Tacho jumps around at 2k.​
Fuel pressure is at least 3bar.​
DME relay swapped.​
DME relay jumped.​
Am thinking about changing boost/amplifier that leads to coil. (Is that the one down behind n/s headlight?)​
Where else can I look?​
What can it be?​
Thanks in advance.​
 
I know nothing of your engine but I'd start with the basics, fuel, spark, compression....assuming you have spark and compression when did the engine last run? how old is the fuel in the tank? Apologies if this has already been covered elsewhere.

cheers

Pete
 
Hi Pete.
No it ran really well.
All new fuel. Good pressure.
Drove it 300 miles in one day.
Washed car and engine.
Started and drove it into garage
I think it is the spark side of things.
Someone posted a link to a site about working through system but link didn't work for me.

 
have you tried checking all of the electrical connections re the engine, I say this as you say that you washed the engine, perhaps some condensation has got into a multiplug?
 
No. Good point. Which plug are you meaning and where is it.
Please be aware this is a 3ltr conversion from 2.5ltr.
Thanks Pete.
 
I'm assuming you have the S2 engine, not clued up on that one but check the reference sensor plugs behind the engine...iirc there's only one on the S2 but could be mistaken...
 
Yes S2 engine.
Anyone got any pics of multiplug locations?

Is there something that would stop coil sending spark to dizzy?
 
I think the reference sensor plug is under the cover on the fuel rail, if the dme doesn't get a signal from the ref sensor I think maybe the ignition circuit won't energise?
 
I had a similar problem when I put a 968 engine in my car (previously 2.5ltr 8v engine). IIRC there is a wire going to the ecu that performs the opposite function on 8v and 16v cars (for one it goes to +12V when engine is started but on the other it goes to GND). It took me a couple of weeks (and a fried 968 ecu) to find this out. From memory the wire in question is red/blk but I may be wrong. Suggest google for wiring differences between 944 8v and 16v engines - there is information out there but it took a bit of finding.

Good luck

Mick
 
No progress.
Have ordered a ignition boaster thingy.
It's 15quid. I'll swap it in. And see where we go.

As to other replies. The conversion is 4 years old now and I drove car 300 miles on the day I bought it. I don't think it is a install issue. Thanks anyway. K.


 
One failure mode of the 944 S2 and 944 S DME/ECU is no ignition output.

I have seen several die like this, which is why I always kept three loan S2 DME on the shelf and used to sell them on an exchange basis.

Typically the two failure modes of the S2 and S DME is either loss of spark, or loss of idle, but loss of spark is the main one. Usually I think the repairer says it is the ignition power transistor within the DME which dies.

It could also be a number of other things, such as the crank sensor on your other thread.

Usually the Hall sensor on the cam pulley can be disconnected and the car will still run, but typically with a slightly rougher idle and stalling on return to idle at times.. This sensor is just used for telling the DME what phase the cam is at, without it being connected or if it fails, it will typically default to running batch injection rather like the 8v cars rather than sequential as it should.

Other sensors, the engine management coolant temp sensor can make cold starts tricky if that fails, which is near the other coolant temp sensor used for the dashboard, these are often failed and people do not know it... However, typically this would be hard starts rather than non starts.

Airflow meter is ignored during cranking, so it is not that.

Bad earth strap at the back of the engine can look ok, but actually have a big voltage drop between earth and engine earth if old, which can cause all kinds of problems during cranking, as the limited ground potential will allow the starter to have a good earth, but not the sensors which at best confuses the DME, at worst it can burn out your ABS sensor wiring loom, as that becomes the next best path to earth!

Other than that, it could be a wiring fault..

Does it try to start at all? Such as a cough as you let off of the key?

Alternatively the ignition amp as you say can be a problem, as can the coil, but it is relatively rare in my opinion (I have had to change 1 ignition amp in the last 28 years as a Porsche technician with a big 944 customer base, have changed several coils, but usually due to poor coil performance, not it completely failing which can be tested)


 
Thanks guys.
Looks like there is definitely a issue with reference sensor, so will look into that next.
Can they break down all of a sudden?
 
944Volks said:
Thanks guys.
Looks like there is definitely a issue with reference sensor, so will look into that next.
Can they break down all of a sudden?
Allsorts of things will breakdown if you jetwash an engine . Makes it hard to pinpoint what is the root cause.

 
944Volks said:
Thanks.
It seems for every helpful knowledgeable useful post, you get a pointless one on here.
Lol
Yes, I thought the suggestion to scrap it wasn't helpful at all, better off torching it and claiming on the insurance, inexplicable electrical fault? ROTFL
 
944Volks said:
Can they break down all of a sudden?


Typically the crank sensors tend to fail not because of the sensor, but because the insulation on the cable fails, lets in oxygen which attacks the wires in the cable, and allows in water which corrodes and shorts the wires.

The actual sensor itself can also fail for many reasons, sudden impact or again oxygen getting to the coil windings inside it, usually due to the plastic degrading by a fraction, letting in air or moisture.

All of this comes down to age though, never seen a young crank sensor die.
 

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