1989 930 turbo
- Thread starter Guest
- Start date
Fit a new turbo after fitting new headers, not before or during. Any particles can damage the new turbo.
tj930
New member
Sorry to stir the pot, but I've heard a couple of Porsche specialists say bad things about Hayward&Scott - typically just after I've told them that my stainless-steel pipe (into which the wastegate mounts) was made by H&S!... [8|]
"You pays your money and you takes your choice.."
All I'm saying is that you should check out the whole market before you reach a decision (B&B, GHL, and Fabspeed, to name a few).
"You pays your money and you takes your choice.."
All I'm saying is that you should check out the whole market before you reach a decision (B&B, GHL, and Fabspeed, to name a few).
Not sure about H&S, i think with the cheap systems available from the states then you'd have to be a bit nuts to go for something from the UK.
Like Nathan has said, whoever you use for your headers, make sure there is no debris in there, a piece of metal as small as a grain of sand can destroy your nice new turbo, run the new headers for a while with your old turbo fitted just in case.
If you've already bought your H&S system and you are wondering what else to do while you have things in bits then the turbo would obviously be the next step, some form of K27 would be the order of the day, try www.Ultimatemotorwerks.com or www.imagineauto.com/index3.htm for your turbo, good people and as cheap as you can get.
The best thing to do before modifying your car is get a health check done, find a competent garage to do a hot leak-down test, this will tell you if your valves are all seating nicely and whether your pistons and rings are worn etc, if the leak down numbers are bad you will hear air either coming up through the intake manifold, down the exhaust or into the crankcase, this will tell you what's what.
Then you really want to think about getting your fuel delivery sorted, an adjustable warm up regulator or the new digital warm up regulator is the answer. So you then have a clean bill of health PLUS the ability to dial in the correct fuel for your immediate and future modifications.
From there up to low 400bhp you should be good without having to tear your engine down, to get up to 400 though you will need more than just a turbo and headers. You will need 1.0bar of boost, simplest way to achieve this is a manual boost controller of which there are many on the market, this can be fitted in minutes and doesn't require tearing your wastegate apart to fit a stronger spring.
Then for the extra power, and the heat that comes with it you will need a bigger intercooler, blownsix in the states are among the cheapest. Then for more again you will need cams, modified fuel head for more fuel, smaller airbox for easy access to the WUR for adjustment. By this point you're around or over 400bhp, for more you need to tear things down and the list and bill goes skyward.
Other things to think about too are brakes and suspension, the extra power will need extra stopping, it also causes extra squatting. If your suspension is original is almost certainly shagged, there are lots of things to consider. If i was you starting from scratch i would follow the above list to the letter, all of it is reversible and easy to do.
Like Nathan has said, whoever you use for your headers, make sure there is no debris in there, a piece of metal as small as a grain of sand can destroy your nice new turbo, run the new headers for a while with your old turbo fitted just in case.
If you've already bought your H&S system and you are wondering what else to do while you have things in bits then the turbo would obviously be the next step, some form of K27 would be the order of the day, try www.Ultimatemotorwerks.com or www.imagineauto.com/index3.htm for your turbo, good people and as cheap as you can get.
The best thing to do before modifying your car is get a health check done, find a competent garage to do a hot leak-down test, this will tell you if your valves are all seating nicely and whether your pistons and rings are worn etc, if the leak down numbers are bad you will hear air either coming up through the intake manifold, down the exhaust or into the crankcase, this will tell you what's what.
Then you really want to think about getting your fuel delivery sorted, an adjustable warm up regulator or the new digital warm up regulator is the answer. So you then have a clean bill of health PLUS the ability to dial in the correct fuel for your immediate and future modifications.
From there up to low 400bhp you should be good without having to tear your engine down, to get up to 400 though you will need more than just a turbo and headers. You will need 1.0bar of boost, simplest way to achieve this is a manual boost controller of which there are many on the market, this can be fitted in minutes and doesn't require tearing your wastegate apart to fit a stronger spring.
Then for the extra power, and the heat that comes with it you will need a bigger intercooler, blownsix in the states are among the cheapest. Then for more again you will need cams, modified fuel head for more fuel, smaller airbox for easy access to the WUR for adjustment. By this point you're around or over 400bhp, for more you need to tear things down and the list and bill goes skyward.
Other things to think about too are brakes and suspension, the extra power will need extra stopping, it also causes extra squatting. If your suspension is original is almost certainly shagged, there are lots of things to consider. If i was you starting from scratch i would follow the above list to the letter, all of it is reversible and easy to do.
Yep, don't got to 1bar unless you go to either a K27 or an uprated IC. Ideally you should of course do both...
Just to add, I've seen a H&S complete system on a 3.2 carrera and I was (as I suspected from photo's seen on the web) rather dissapointed. However, I am very fussy. As maybe JBL, TJ and SJD have guessed I probably have OCD [
]
If you are happy with it then that is what matters. I'm dissapointed that my GHL headers are not 100% stainless steel. Annoyingly the flanges appear to be lcs (mild steel) and had some surface rust which I had to sand off just before fitting []
I've spoken to some one from H&S, they assure me their products are 100% stainless throughout.
On some systems the welding material used is of poorer quality than the rest of the system...
]If you are happy with it then that is what matters. I'm dissapointed that my GHL headers are not 100% stainless steel. Annoyingly the flanges appear to be lcs (mild steel) and had some surface rust which I had to sand off just before fitting [
]I've spoken to some one from H&S, they assure me their products are 100% stainless throughout.
On some systems the welding material used is of poorer quality than the rest of the system...
I have my H&S for about 8 years now and have no problems other than to say the design makes tightening the manifold nuts very hard. I have "modified" a couple of ring spanners to do the job. I only went for the H&S as they were selling them at discount at Porsche annual event, but can say that I have not regretted decision.
regards Simon
regards Simon
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