Fuse for usb outlet

[stephenkershaw]

Hi all. Would anyone know the fuse number for the usb socket in the central armrest of a 997.2? The cigarette lighter has power but the usb does not charge my phone anymore with engine on or off. I have looked at the fuse diagram but it is not specific enough. Many thanks, steve

 

[malarcy]

Don't think there is a physical fuse - its driven from the PCM as far as I know - so perhaps check the D9 and D10 fuses. The USB socket is only USB 2 rated - so 0.5A max - it will struggle to keep up with a large screen phone running navigation apps or streaming.

 

[stephenkershaw]

Don't think there is a physical fuse - its driven from the PCM as far as I know - so perhaps check the D9 and D10 fuses. The USB socket is only USB 2 rated - so 0.5A max - it will struggle to keep up with a large screen phone running navigation apps or streaming.

Thanks for the info. I replaced the original head unit with an Ali express one and didn’t realise it would stop the usb plugs in the central armrest working. The usb plugs in the new head unit work as a phone charger though it’s all good. Thanks again.

 

[grumpybadger]

Thanks for the info. I replaced the original head unit with an Ali express one and didn’t realise it would stop the usb plugs in the central armrest working. The usb plugs in the new head unit work as a phone charger though it’s all good. Thanks again.

Are you happy with the Ali Express unit? I am looking at one for my 987.1 TIA

 

[stephenkershaw]

Yes I am. Works well with carplay. Fairly easy to fit although I did have to run an extra wire from the fuse box to the unit. No problems with it so far and it has. Been in six months or so.

 

[grumpybadger]

Yes I am. Works well with carplay. Fairly easy to fit although I did have to run an extra wire from the fuse box to the unit. No problems with it so far and it has. Been in six months or so.

What was the additional wire for? I already have a aftermarket product that was fitted when I got the car but the volume is a nightmare and I'm guessing its because of the amp. It goes from soft to loud in 1 or 2 click

 

[grumpybadger]

Yes I am. Works well with carplay. Fairly easy to fit although I did have to run an extra wire from the fuse box to the unit. No problems with it so far and it has. Been in six months or so.

Also, I've not bought from AliExpress before and it adjusts the price at checkout "The price of your order has been adjusted to reflect a later collection of VAT at the customs" how does that work?

 

[stephenkershaw]

What was the additional wire for? I already have a aftermarket product that was fitted when I got the car but the volume is a nightmare and I'm guessing its because of the amp. It goes from soft to loud in 1 or 2 click

The extra wire was to pick up a switched power supply to the unit. It came wired with a permanent power supply which drained the battery. Not a huge amount of work. Just need to find a fuse that is off when the key is not in the ignition and use one of those devices that splits the fuse in to two circuits. Then route the cable under the drivers side foot well. The advice on the forums is to turn the volume on the existing head unit up to fairly loud before disconnecting it and fitting the new unit.

 

[malarcy]

Also, I've not bought from AliExpress before and it adjusts the price at checkout "The price of your order has been adjusted to reflect a later collection of VAT at the customs" how does that work?

I recently bought one. Expecting to get an email from the uk carrier for the vat payment (have had this before when shipping stuff from the US) but that never happened. I got a Royal Mail tracking number that kicked to life about 10 days after they marked the item as shipped and sure enough 3 days later it arrived. No vat was asked for.

 

[stephenkershaw]

Same for me.

 

[grumpybadger]

Thanks everyone

 

[grumpybadger]

The extra wire was to pick up a switched power supply to the unit. It came wired with a permanent power supply which drained the battery. Not a huge amount of work. Just need to find a fuse that is off when the key is not in the ignition and use one of those devices that splits the fuse in to two circuits. Then route the cable under the drivers side foot well. The advice on the forums is to turn the volume on the existing head unit up to fairly loud before disconnecting it and fitting the new unit.

Just ordered one, did you need a code when fitting it or does it just fire up and work?

 

[malarcy]

Just ordered one, did you need a code when fitting it or does it just fire up and work?

No code required as such - and physically plug and play - but there was a ton of things I wanted to, and others I needed to change in the "engineering" settings - the code for which on mine is 3368

I found I needed to change specifics around, left hand or right hand drive ( affects where the icons for carplay appears rhd - right side of screen), , turn off the really annoying beep at every keypress or touch, turn off reverse detection ( I havent fitted a camera - but it would still try and go into "camera" mode when reversing.... and a few others that I found ( like "door detection - supposed to show a graphic if your doors are open - which worked, a bit, sometimes - so I turned it off)

I also needed to change the "antenna always on" - setting - otherwise the unit would stay awake when the ignition key was removed, mine works find for turning off when key taken out with that setting in place.

I find it great at carplay, and a bit average / cheap chinese in other software functions - but does the job, looks good, sounds good and is better than looking at my phone screen in a holder for google maps.

One thing I did buy was an "sma to fakra" adapter from amazon for about £10 - that meant i could hook up the existing factory GPS and didnt need to install the provided one.

 

[grumpybadger]

No code required as such - and physically plug and play - but there was a ton of things I wanted to, and others I needed to change in the "engineering" settings - the code for which on mine is 3368

I found I needed to change specifics around, left hand or right hand drive ( affects where the icons for carplay appears rhd - right side of screen), , turn off the really annoying beep at every keypress or touch, turn off reverse detection ( I havent fitted a camera - but it would still try and go into "camera" mode when reversing.... and a few others that I found ( like "door detection - supposed to show a graphic if your doors are open - which worked, a bit, sometimes - so I turned it off)

I also needed to change the "antenna always on" - setting - otherwise the unit would stay awake when the ignition key was removed, mine works find for turning off when key taken out with that setting in place.

I find it great at carplay, and a bit average / cheap chinese in other software functions - but does the job, looks good, sounds good and is better than looking at my phone screen in a holder for google maps.

One thing I did buy was an "sma to fakra" adapter from amazon for about £10 - that meant i could hook up the existing factory GPS and didnt need to install the provided one.

Thanks, lots of detail there, do you have the link to sma to fakra unit you bought as seems to be a few, TIA

 

[malarcy]

Thanks, lots of detail there, do you have the link to sma to fakra unit you bought as seems to be a few, TIA

https://amzn.eu/d/72UFc4F is what I used.

 

[grumpybadger]

https://amzn.eu/d/72UFc4F is what I used.

Thanks

 

[grumpybadger]

https://amzn.eu/d/72UFc4F is what I used.

All fitted bar the GPS connector had to use theirs for now as my connector is square not round at the car end so the cable you used didn't fit. There was a similar cable that looked like it would fit labelled ltg.1 but I couldn't find any details about what that does, do you know? Also I now get a message on the dash saying AUDIO OFF do you have the same? I also couldn't find anywhere for the largest connector to plug into should that go somewhere? It all seems to work without it plugged into anything though.

Also managed to order the correct colour by chance,I didn't realise there we different colours.

 

[malarcy]

All fitted bar the GPS connector had to use theirs for now as my connector is square not round at the car end so the cable you used didn't fit. There was a similar cable that looked like it would fit labelled ltg.1 but I couldn't find any details about what that does, do you know? Also I now get a message on the dash saying AUDIO OFF do you have the same? I also couldn't find anywhere for the largest connector to plug into should that go somewhere? It all seems to work without it plugged into anything though.

Also managed to order the correct colour by chance,I didn't realise there we different colours.

So, my PCM had 3 "fakra" connectors on it - one blue ( from memory thats gps - but I may have that wrong) , one black - fm aerial ( or the other way around) - one "mustard" colour - that's the lead to the USB part of the universal audio interface in the arm rest.

All the other connections were in the big "quadlock" connector. So for me - the supplied loom, the supplied aerial adapter and the cable I got from amazon completed the "hook up" to the car, at the head end all the little block connectors can only go in 1 place - I didn't plug them all in - I didn't need the one with all the rca cables etc. on it - I may revisit at some point to hook up an external mic if I find I need it. The unused big coppnnector is not used - it's an "iso" interfac rather than a quadlock - serves the same purpose for different cars wiring - looks like they use a generic part.

ltg,1 - is that on the head unit ? - perhaps "lighting" - i.e. the signal that the cars lights are on - if so - not needed the canbus interface box provides that info.

AUDIO OFF - interesting - I don't get it...

Couple of things there - you can from the standard onboard computer, go into settings..... display.... and basically tell the cluster to display something else in that space.

But - mine (if I have it selected - which I don't often) - does display things like the fm station its tuned to - I *may* have tweaked stuff in the factory settings menu ( code on mine is 3368 - if that doesn't work then have a google - there's only half a dozen or so codes in use.) to turn on the "display" stuff - but I think thats all part of the canbus interface ( the little perspex "extra" box that comes with the headunit. - so you might want to check things like the buttons light up when you put the car lights on etc. - that's all the same box - if thats not hooked up then that could explain the audio off message.

I will at some point code out the pcm so the car doesn't try to talk to it - it doesn't cause a problem by the looks - but the car knows it's missing and logs internal errors that "annoy" me - and can be red herrings if people ever scan the car looking for faults.

 

[grumpybadger]

So, my PCM had 3 "fakra" connectors on it - one blue ( from memory thats gps - but I may have that wrong) , one black - fm aerial ( or the other way around) - one "mustard" colour - that's the lead to the USB part of the universal audio interface in the arm rest.

All the other connections were in the big "quadlock" connector. So for me - the supplied loom, the supplied aerial adapter and the cable I got from amazon completed the "hook up" to the car, at the head end all the little block connectors can only go in 1 place - I didn't plug them all in - I didn't need the one with all the rca cables etc. on it - I may revisit at some point to hook up an external mic if I find I need it. The unused big coppnnector is not used - it's an "iso" interfac rather than a quadlock - serves the same purpose for different cars wiring - looks like they use a generic part.

ltg,1 - is that on the head unit ? - perhaps "lighting" - i.e. the signal that the cars lights are on - if so - not needed the canbus interface box provides that info.

AUDIO OFF - interesting - I don't get it...

Couple of things there - you can from the standard onboard computer, go into settings..... display.... and basically tell the cluster to display something else in that space.

But - mine (if I have it selected - which I don't often) - does display things like the fm station its tuned to - I *may* have tweaked stuff in the factory settings menu ( code on mine is 3368 - if that doesn't work then have a google - there's only half a dozen or so codes in use.) to turn on the "display" stuff - but I think thats all part of the canbus interface ( the little perspex "extra" box that comes with the headunit. - so you might want to check things like the buttons light up when you put the car lights on etc. - that's all the same box - if thats not hooked up then that could explain the audio off message.

I will at some point code out the pcm so the car doesn't try to talk to it - it doesn't cause a problem by the looks - but the car knows it's missing and logs internal errors that "annoy" me - and can be red herrings if people ever scan the car looking for faults.

Morning, thanks for the quick reply. I've adjusted the display to show the range and it was set to audio so something to investigate. I did the same as you with the connectors just put the ones I needed in. Thanks for the info on the ISO connector that makes sense now. The ltg.1 connector wasn't connected when I took the old unit out and the lights on alarm seems to work ok, so would be interesting to find out what that cable is. It has a similar connector to the GPS connector. It was a bit 'Heath Robinson' behind the old units, lots of taped up cabling and a direct cable, yellow and green, which I couldn't trace back to anything, this goes into the old connection block so wonder if it was a perm live like you had to do. The unit seems to work fine turns on and off with the ignition. Car Play works great. The canbus box seems to be hooked up ok so will need to investigate as you say.

My only 3 issues left really are:

1) The radio reception is still poor I was hoping the new unit would fix that, I used the existing co-ax cable from the old unit, the one that comes with the new unit has 2 connectors which confused me, is it possible it's power to boost the signal, or is it again a universal connector so you just use one or the other?

2) I use the hotspot on my phone which connects ok but the internet connection doesn't seem to work. Nothing downloads to the embedded google maps app so there is no 'default' nav.

3) I tried using radio apps in Car Play to aleviate the signal issue but these don't seem to work

 

[malarcy]

Those "extra" wires sounds like someone had something else in there before and they are a legacy. - my wiring was "clean" - i.e. no taped up or "new" wires and nothing like lgt.1

I didn't need to run any new wires for mine permanent live is in the quadlock, switched (acc live) comes from the canbus adapter as does "illumination" - i.e. "your lights are on" - when you turn you lights on do the buttons on the headunit light up and does carplay switch to night mode.?

The aerial has an amplifier ( actually 2 amplifiers - they live in the a pillars both sides) - sounds like possibly that's not "happening" for you - the aerial connector on mine had a "fakra" and a lose blue wire - I was expecting to have to do something with that but I didn't need to - fm works fine for me - if someone has been in there previously then something may have happened to the "default" wiring - hard to guess to be honest - can only go by my experience which was - I didn't need to mess with anything for fm to work

i do the same for the hotspot - but again, mine does have internet connection - and I have been able to update the built in apps (the carlink2 app that is carplay - and some of the canbus components - I have also purchased tomtom go for android and installed that on the headunit itself as a fall back for "for whatever reason I dont have a phone right now" contingency.

I have an app called radioplayer - basically picks up all the internet broadcasts for stations - that's carplay compatible and works well for me - hence I haven't bothered with DAB .