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Crankcase breather

King Tiger

PCGB Member
Member
Hi. Went to my OPC for an oil filter and they mentioned the need for a crankcase breather as well as the engine oil filter. Is this really necessary?. Also, where can i buy at the most sensible price, suitable fully synthetic oil 10W 40 or 10W 30?



Thanks
 
Most of us who do our own oil changes use 15W-50 or 20W-50 fully synthetic usually sold as a Motorsport oil as it has the additives that our older designed engines need.
In the UK 20W oils are OK unless you live in places where you drive with an outside temp -15 or below.
10W = -25
20W = -15
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Millers-Oils-5-Litres-Of-CFS-10W50-Nanodrive-Fully-Synthetic-Engine-Oil-Race/361357924170?epid=7010771156&hash=item54229c574a:g:Av4AAOSwjDZYhuFY

You're going to need a low profile 10L oil catcher.
If you send me an email I'll attach a pdf article from PP describing how to do it if you're new to air cooled Porsches.
964@porscheclubgb.com
 
King Tiger said:
Hi. Went to my OPC for an oil filter and they mentioned the need for a crankcase breather as well as the engine oil filter. Is this really necessary?. Also, where can i buy at the most sensible price, suitable fully synthetic oil 10W 40 or 10W 30?



Thanks
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/ Members discount also. Drop them an email and they will give you all the options for your vehicle. Free delivery over £60. Very good professional advice. Try them, you don't have to use them. Remember they sell other items for vehicles.
 
10/40 definitely preferable for my 964. Whenever I've tried anything thicker it feels decidedly sluggish. No issues with leaks or excessive oil use with 10/40 either.
I've got plenty of respect for David, though so don't dismiss his advice on my say-so.
Go to a decent local motor factor and they usually have deals on oil.
 
If you use the ready reckoner on these oil sites, it always spits out 10W-40 but Porsche recommend 10W-60.
Go figure.
My concern is that the valve gear that needs rebuilding after 80K might be because of wrong oil viscosity.
Working on the principle that it's cheaper to buy quality oils than an engine rebuild.
 
Ah, the engine oil topic. Can be very subjective and down personal requirements I guess.

I've now adopted and never looked back switching to Millers CFS 10w50 (and their NT+ version). Certainly not the cheapest that's for sure. But after long chats with their tech guys I'm glad I made the switch. Convinced also by the fact that if it's good enough as the defacto fill for the cross-continent Francis Tuthill 911's at full tilt, then it's more than good enough for my humble 911 (and the 968 too).
 
That's the one Stephen.

I spoke to Opie the other day re cross-mixing NT+ with non-NT+ (which is ok to do btw). However, the current non-NT+ oil (https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-115230-millers-oils-cfs-10w-50-competition-full-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx) has recently benefited from an update/inclusion of additives found in the NT+ (albeit not the actual NT+ component itself). So, if on a really tight budget then that helps.

But, the NT+ extra cost is minimal imho and when you also apply the PCGB 10% discount there's only @ total £14 difference (for 2 x 5L). Not intending to steer you and I have no affiliation. Choose whatever works for you. :)
 
That was the engine oil which I used in my 1984 911 3.2. No problems with it. Opie have always very good at giving advice on the use of fluids for all my cars.
 
Ah, my error - I spoke directly to Millers (and not Opie) re mixing 10w50 CFS. But yes, Opie very approachable and often repsonding to forum posts and topics.
 
Yes - "PCGB"
You may be prompted for your membership number. That or the need to register an account with Opie Oils. Same oil from Demon Tweeks over £140.
 
mcgc0 said:
Ah, my error - I spoke directly to Millers (and not Opie) re mixing 10w50 CFS. But yes, Opie very approachable and often repsonding to forum posts and topics.


Yes Millers are very approachable aren't they Marcus. Out of the major oil companies I called asking for details about the quantities of ZDDP they put in their oils, Millers were the only ones who told me straight off what they were. The others declined because of trade secrets or other bs.

 
Millers are going to be at the Classis Car Resto Show at NEC next month. Plenty of Millers info and people to talk to there.
 
Dekker said:
You're going to need a low profile 10L oil catcher.


This thread seems to have become about oil.. which is very interesting too, but can I ask about the rationale and benefits of the crankcase breather/catch can. I’m new to air cooled, and this forum, (first post. hello everyone) so excuse the ignorance. Used to have a Japanese track day car and doing this was recommended, but not so important for road use.
 
Targa_Si said:
This thread seems to have become about oil.. which is very interesting too, but can I ask about the rationale and benefits of the crankcase breather/catch can. I’m new to air cooled, and this forum, (first post. hello everyone) so excuse the ignorance. Used to have a Japanese track day car and doing this was recommended, but not so important for road use.


I've never heard of anyone fitting such a device, probably because this engine is a dry sump and the only breather pipes I can see are those that connect to the oil tank in front of the offside wheel.
As for the breather filter mentioned in the 1st post, I can only assume that the parts guy was referring to the pollen filter.
 

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