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Gear Selection Issues

bmnelsc

bmnelsc

New member
You don't mention any difference in clutch operation - is it stiffer than before? From your description I would suspect the clutch is not fully releasing. Check the fluid for level and then the travel on the pedal, clutch and slave cylinder. The manual provides the measurements for travel on the clutch fork and provides minimum travel. Less than minimum travel indicates the clutch may not be releasing fully. If you get sufficient travel initially but it won't hold the gap then you probably have some fluid bypass in the slave or master cylinder.

 
Worth checking the gear linkage on the left of the gearbox. If this has worn enough you will have trouble selecting gears. I fitted a short shift kit that replaced the entire linkage and the difference was profound.

 
Advice Please

Whilst out for a jolly yesterday I started to get gear selection problems.

At standstill all gears can be selected but once on the move I found myself having to use force to select gear, especially in 3rd & 4th, tried old fashioned double declutching. made no difference.

I have an early 944 with 87k on the clock, I have checked the service history, may be on original clutch.

I'm going to start with checking/cleaning/greasing linkages and see how it goes.

Any ideas?????


 
That worked well - OUCH !!!!!

One clutch, rear engine seal, new copper fuel pipe through out and clips, rear copper brake pipe, oil/fuel filters, new gear box mounts, also rude not to chuck in short shift kit.

Car was on original clutch with chunks missing out of the centre rubber mount. Fuel pipe was rotten and could have gone at anytime, failing clutch has done me a favour.

So wallet has taken a bashing but then I now have a 31 year old 944 that has a precise gear change, no crashing or banging with no fear of leaking fuel or ending up with a fireball.

Hats off to Tonbridge OPC, great source of advice and parts competitivley priced

 
Thanks for the update. So many threads never have the final solution to the original problem.

Glad it's sorted.

 
Also change the clutch fork bearings, guide tube, spigot bearing in the crank and potentially the clutch fork pin if it has any marks on it... Not expensive to add these parts but makes all the difference and avoids a problem later.

 
Indi9xx said:
Also change the clutch fork bearings, guide tube, spigot bearing in the crank and potentially the clutch fork pin if it has any marks on it... Not expensive to add these parts but makes all the difference and avoids a problem later.
Click to expand...

I agree fully with Jon's advice, it's a fairly straight forward job to change the clutch fork bearings, IIRC I gave details (with pictures) in my engine build thread, other parts as listed by Jon were also taken care off. For the clutch fork pin, having a machine shop at home I turned one for up myself, it's straight forward machining job and only took a couple of hours.

Regards

Pete

 
Bit unfair to suggest these things to be replaced once the chap has finished the job. Unless you are volunteering to take it all apart and fit them for him, of course ....

Glad it's all as it should be now Andy. The bill will have hurt, but those are jobs you shouldn't have to do for another 25 years with luck!

Oli.

 
I am a very active traveler, but this year forced me to cancel nearly all my plans. Unfortunately, some of my bookings and tickets were lost without any compensation. But I still hope to use my accessories from StartMyHobbyTrip during autumn months. My October destination is Istanbul, I love this city, its atmosphere is unique. I am waiting impatiently to feel it again.

 
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