Another knock from the back!

[944Fripp]

Over the last couple of months I've noticed a knocking sound from the rear. At first I thought it was coming from the brake...which it kind of was! The new pads were knocking in the calipers. A little grinding and that was that...so I thought.

Turns out there were two knocks. The remaining one only happens when hard cornering right and comes from the near side (so where all the loading is). Whilst investigating the previous knock I found that there is quite a bit of play on the near side driveshaft and the knock which I could prety easily recreate sounds the same. Since then (about a month ago) I've done about 60 miles in it and it now requires even less cornering speed/severity to make it knock. The wheel is solid with no knocking when up on the the jack.

So, I think the CV joint needs replacing....unless anyone thinks any different?!

My questions are: is this a fairly straight forward job? It looks like I can pop the back up on jack stands, remove it and replace the joint. Appreciate there's a little more to it but the clarks garage guide looks straight forward to me. Also, do I need to replace both? The offside seems good and secure.

As ever, your collective wise words would be much appreciated!

 

[zcacogp]

Getting the spline-head bolts out is the hard bit. If they move, the job is as easy as you say. It's WELL worth cleaning those bolt heads before you try to remove them as if you round them out, the job becomes miserable. I find that a good squirt of WD40 gets the crud out and allows the tool to grip them well.

You don't need to change all the CV's at once but it's worth being sure which one is duff before wielding the spanners.


Oli.

 

[Monkeythree]

I agree with Oli on the bolt heads. It is well worth taking the time to get in there with an angled pick and a can of WD40 and gouge/wash all the crud out of them before starting. The tool needs to bottom out in the bolt head otherwise the slightest lateral movement will put all the torque on the tool off centre and that is when the tool slips and rounds the splines and you have a major PITA on your hands.

I would however suggest replacing all four CV's at the same time. You've got the car up in the air, you've got all the tools to hand. For the sake of an extra few quid, for me it makes sense to change them all at the same time and then you know it's done. Make sure to note the correct orientation of the new CV joints. There is a groove machined into the body.

BTW, packing the new CV's is the greasiest job in the world. Be prepared with more rags than you know what to do with.

 

[944Scott]

Once off I'd suggest buying new bolts as well []

 

[Waylander]

Get the kits from just campers they come with bolts

 

[944Fripp]

ORIGINAL: Waylander

Get the kits from just campers they come with bolts

Uh?! Never heard of them....

Do you mean this:

http://www.justkampers.com/211-598-101-cv-joint-kit-vw-t2-bay-1967-1992-vw-t25-1979-1992.html

That's a great tip!

 

[Richair]

Using the right 'triple square' spline keys with and and impact gun helps. I'd recommend BGS tools for the keys as they're quality German made tools for sensible money.

 

[944Fripp]

ORIGINAL: 944Fripp

ORIGINAL: Waylander

Get the kits from just campers they come with bolts

Uh?! Never heard of them....

Do you mean this:

http://www.justkampers.com/211-598-101-cv-joint-kit-vw-t2-bay-1967-1992-vw-t25-1979-1992.html

That's a great tip!

Just checking to see if anyone knows if these will fit? What's the Porsche Part number for the CV joints?

 

[edh]

I bought this set, or something very similar. So far they have been excellent for a load of different jobs. (I re-used my driveshaft bolts...)
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/draper-40-piece-tx-star-hexagon-and-xzn-mechan

Frazerpart lists several different CV joints
http://www.frazerpart.com/acatalog/944_New_5.Rear_axle___suspension.html

Do you have a copy of PET, the Porsche parts catalogue? If not, I'd strongly advise you download it
http://www.porsche.com/uk/accessoriesandservice/porscheservice/originalparts/originalpartscatalogue/

Olli Snellman suggests Ford Scorpio CV's fit
https://www.porscheclubgb.com/forum/tm.asp?m=467365&mpage=3&key=

 

[944Fripp]

Just been watching this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DY1VECxKCHs

Looks pretty straight forward although I can't quite figure out why they mark up the tyre with angled marks. Is it just for time saving for where the bolts sit so that they can move the wheel on the jack and drop it back down in the right place?

 

[944Fripp]

ORIGINAL: 944Fripp

ORIGINAL: 944Fripp

ORIGINAL: Waylander

Get the kits from just campers they come with bolts

Uh?! Never heard of them....

Do you mean this:

http://www.justkampers.com/211-598-101-cv-joint-kit-vw-t2-bay-1967-1992-vw-t25-1979-1992.html

That's a great tip!

Just checking to see if anyone knows if these will fit? What's the Porsche Part number for the CV joints?

I can safely now answer my own question.

No....no they don't! []

 

[Hilux]

ORIGINAL: zcacogp

Getting the spline-head bolts out is the hard bit. If they move, the job is as easy as you say. It's WELL worth cleaning those bolt heads before you try to remove them as if you round them out, the job becomes miserable. I find that a good squirt of WD40 gets the crud out and allows the tool to grip them well.

You don't need to change all the CV's at once but it's worth being sure which one is duff before wielding the spanners.


Oli.

I always replace CV bolts.

Tip 1 - Use Irwin nut removers if the bolts appear to risk stripping the splines - they cant slip and if you do re-use the bolts they do little damage and preserve the spline for torqueing up (see below)

Tip 2 - CV bolts clamp the two faces together - the clamping action of the bolts is only effective with total cleanliness of the two mating faces for it is their mating surface friction that primarily resists rotation. Its why the bolts are relatively thin for the job at hand.

 

[944Fripp]

ORIGINAL: Hilux

ORIGINAL: zcacogp

Getting the spline-head bolts out is the hard bit. If they move, the job is as easy as you say. It's WELL worth cleaning those bolt heads before you try to remove them as if you round them out, the job becomes miserable. I find that a good squirt of WD40 gets the crud out and allows the tool to grip them well.

You don't need to change all the CV's at once but it's worth being sure which one is duff before wielding the spanners.


Oli.

I always replace CV bolts.

Tip 1 - Use Irwin nut removers if the bolts appear to risk stripping the splines - they cant slip and if you do re-use the bolts they do little damage and preserve the spline for torqueing up (see below)

Tip 2 - CV bolts clamp the two faces together - the clamping action of the bolts is only effective with total cleanliness of the two mating faces for it is their mating surface friction that primarily resists rotation. Its why the bolts are relatively thin for the job at hand.

I found that by hammering the tripple square M8 socket into the bolts until it all sounded solid they came out with rellative ease. Tight but manageable. I only had to drill one out.

Tip 1 is useful and I looked into this myself. Trouble is that with the boot and steel clip in place theres not enough clearance to get these over the bolt head.

Tip 2 is really helpful. I'll give it all a good clean today then as I'm waiting to get the new genuine CV joints on Tuesday.

I always have to do these things when I need the car....I'm off to Goodwood on Friday and would love to take the 944 with me. Fingers crossed it all goes back together OK this week!

Anyone else going?!

 

[944Fripp]

I've just been working on the CV joints. All the joints are the same but there are 2 different plates that sit under the bolts on the face of the joint. I can see that some are smaller than others and can see that one joint on each driveshaft has all short (part number 944 332 191 00) and the other has all long plates (part number 951 332 233 01).

Can anyone tell me if the longer plates go on the hub end or the gearbox end if anyone has their car up in the air?

I think the longer plates go on the hub end because they cover the ABS sensor but could do with a bit of confirmation!

Thanks as ever.