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SC 'Top Tips'. Please read first post

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guerin
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RE: SC 'Top Tips' 2004/10/20 21:18:32 (permalink)
Hi,

My top tips for today.

Spray some light grease or WD40 on the steering shaft universal joints. You will be surprised at the difference it will make.

If fitting a smaller sports steering wheel you can rotate your speedo so you can see the 60mph area better and avoid those points.

jg

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RE: SC 'Top Tips' 2004/11/22 22:46:24 (permalink)
After returning from Ace Cafe tonight I tried to start the car outside my garage and NOTHING! I guess the starter motor is stuck, seized or not getting power. Has anyone out there got a picture of where the starter motor is? The manual I have does not illustrate this area well.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

bones
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RE: SC 'Top Tips' 2004/11/22 22:52:57 (permalink)
The starter motor is attached to the gearbox (top) just in front of the rear drivers wheel. If it's not turning over get someone to turn the key while you give it a sharp tap with a hefty spanner. If this doesn't work then you probably have an electrical problem . Check the connections at the starter motor for starters. I assume you've checked the battery.
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RE: SC 'Top Tips' 2004/11/24 09:28:19 (permalink)
Just to continue the air box/ pop off valve thing a bit longer I thought that I would own up to having "blown" my air box just after buying my car 6 years ago. I had only had the car for 3 weeks and was just nipping out for a spin. On starting the engine there was a fairly loud bang and the engine died and would not re-start, this was accompanied by a sinking feeling in my stomach!!
I realised what had happened and phoned Ray Northway for advice, he said that fitting a new one could cost around £650, not a good thing to tell your wife so close to Xmas and having just bought the car.
A little investigation revealed that the airbox had blown itself apart at the weakest point, it is only two plastic boxes glued and screwed together (simplistically). I went to a local auto factors and bought bigger screws and high temperature engine sealant. The next part involved removing the fuel injection "thingy" from the top of the air box and tying it with string to the top of the engine bay. I then used the sealant and screws to put the two halves of the box back together. I left it for two days to cure and kept fingers crossed. It worked fine, I guess that I was lucky, and held for 3 years before air started leaking in and it was time to buy a new one. The moral here is that things aren't always as bad as they seem (and I am not a mechanic).
Hope this helps and good luck if this has happened to you.
Ian
bones
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RE: SC 'Top Tips' 2004/11/25 14:59:44 (permalink)
Update your instruments by fitting wedge bulb holders and Wedge LED bulbs. I initially tried ordinary wedge bulbs and although these were an improvement over the old bulbs that were in there the light was yellow and with white dials in my car this looks rather cheap and lo-tech. The solution is some bulbs I found on ebay for 0.60p each plus shipping. These are white light LEDs from Hong-Kong (no doubt available somewhere here too). The light is actually subtely blue but the blue tinge adds a nice sophisticated, modern look to the illuminated instruments and the light is infinitely superior in terms of overall illumination making the instruments easier to read. Different colours are available but you need to have wedge bulb holders fitted. Ihaven't found a supplier of wedge bulb holders yet if anyone knows of one please post the details.
To remove your dials , I would start with the clock, once you have this out you can reach in the clock hole and push out the speedo, clearly you can go along the whole row of instruments like this. The clock will be stuck fast if it has never been moved, it is a question of taking your time so as not to damage anything. Try to get you nails behind the rubber grommet just visible at the rear of the bezel and pull/ease/wiggle it out of there. If it is absolutely stuck fast you could try prizing it out with a thin blunt tool. I have used a hard plastic tyre lever before now with the end filed to a fine edge (as my car is basically like a mechano set now with everything disassembling itself to order this is not a problem for me). Put a thick wad of cloth as a purchase for the tool to pivot against and gently pry the clock out. Move position and try again. So you don't apply too much pressure just check as you go along that you are not 'indenting ' the fabric of your dash. If you have the old fashioned bulb holders you will need to find some wedge bulb holders, mine have male spade end connectors, you will then need to strip and crimp onto the old bulb wires female spade end connectors. Job done, sit back and admire the new look illumination from your instruments.
bruceb
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RE: SC 'Top Tips' 2004/11/28 09:11:24 (permalink)
I have owned my my SC for over 6 years and replaced and upgraded many parts over this time. Some jobs I do myself others need money, so here are two tips

Spend money -------and get the suspension aligned and corner weighted

Get your spanners------and change the drive shaft CV jonts


The suspension alignment transformed the handling and feel of the car, it takes an experienced mechanic up to eight hours to do, so is not cheap.

My car always had a slight rumble at motorway speeds as though the wheels were out of balance. Plenty of re balances did not improve things. eventually I checked the cv's and they were some slight play noticable whilst on the car. Removal and inspection revealed pitted CV races. Four new cv's later and the car is oh so smooth, it tightens up the whole feel of the transmission and drive train.

Bruceb
83sc
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SC Pop Off valve 2005/01/16 18:58:05 (permalink)
Ok dumb question for the day. Is there a quick and easy way to see if there is a popoff valve installed? Do you have a pic of one installed?

Thanks

Carrick
bones
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RE: SC Pop Off valve 2005/01/16 19:34:09 (permalink)
Remove the air box cover (two straps) and the filter element, a petrol cap like device will be located at the left of the airbox.
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RE: SC Pop Off valve 2005/01/16 19:44:45 (permalink)
Bones

Thank you. Well I guess mine doesn't have one. Hmmm another job to do.

Any thoughts on starter motors? You may recall a couple of weeks ago mine failed after returning from the Ace Cafe (when they had their power cut). A couple of days latter I tried and successfully started the car. On returning to my garage I had the same failure.

Then this weekend we went up to the NEC and now back in London the starter motor just refuses to go. Tried bashing it with the hammer (after wiggling under - not much room down there) but still no luck. Looks like I'll have to get it down to No.5 to get sorted.

Any thoughts?

Cheers
C
bones
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RE: SC Pop Off valve 2005/01/16 20:42:46 (permalink)
General opinion on starter motors is rebuild rather than replace. This is because the starter motor is matched at the factory to mate correctly with the the teeth of the flywheel gear. I had mine rebuilt a few years ago for £100.00.
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RE: SC Pop Off valve 2005/01/16 21:01:57 (permalink)
Thank you. I hadn't realised that they are factory matched. Will try and have this done. Any idea how long it takes to have the Starter Motor re-built, or where to get this done?

Cheers

C
bones
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RE: SC Pop Off valve 2005/01/16 21:37:54 (permalink)
If you are going to No5 Peter should know a specialist rebuilder. Check the price first though. Autostrasse at Coggeshall had mine rebuilt for me. I think it's a common problem on lots of cars.
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SuperBlue Racing Brake Fluid 2005/02/23 12:32:31 (permalink)
Bones

So where can you get Super Blue from? I can get it in the USA but can't find anyone here that sells it. In the USA its about $15 but they can't send it over as it's classed as hazardous.

How does Super Blu compare with Castrol SRS?

Yes I've decided to bleed the brakes and hope that this helps the braking system.

Regards
bones
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RE: SuperBlue Racing Brake Fluid 2005/02/23 13:04:38 (permalink)
I'm sure the Castrol is good but this seems to be a favourite with 'performance seekers'.
Buy it here.

http://www.powermarques.co.uk/sports%20brakes.htm
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Oil Guage 2005/03/01 07:19:19 (permalink)
Thank's Bones for the info re Brake fluid.

A further minor question regarding oil guages. When I had the clutch replaced I also had an oil sensor replaced. Since then the oil guage is more responsive - which I guessed was a good thing. The question I have though is will the cold effect the oil guage or sensors? It appears to have developed a mind of it's own. Yesterday morning it was stuck on red for half an hour. After idling for arround a minute it came up to about 1/4. Then last night it was reading full from start.

Is there any way to test the oil guage?

Also how much oil should I go through per say 1000 miles?

Thanks
bones
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RE: Oil Guage 2005/03/01 10:47:03 (permalink)
I take it you are talking about the oil level gauge, assuming that, The gauge with the correct amount of oil in the engine works as follows. From cold you won't get a reading until the engine has reached proper operating temp'. When you idle on level groung the gauge (which is only a guide) should show about 1/2 - 3/4 full and drop to zero as you accelerate away, it may fluctuate a little from time to time and on hot days may show a minimal reading all the time. If it shows full from cold you may have overfilled the engine or have a faulty gauge or oil level sender (on the tank in the rear off side wing- assuming RHD).
The correct way to check the oil level is with the dipstick. With the engine at operating temp' and on level ground wait for a minute to let the oil cycle up to the tank and make sure the oil is midway between the two markers on the dipstick, don't overfill it! On a blisteringly hot day or after high rpm driving you will find the oil level is higher due to expansion, so level varies with conditions. My engine uses 1/3- 1/2ltr per 1000 miles depending on how I drive.
What year is your car?
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RE: Oil Guage 2005/03/01 18:07:22 (permalink)
Bones

Thank you. So it sounds like there may be a fault with the gauge. Will do the dipstick test next time I take her out (latter this week weather permitting).

The car is an 82 LHD.

Didn't see you at the Ace on Monday. We had a couple of nice snow flurries there.

See you next month hopefully.

Cheers
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RE: Oil Guage 2005/03/01 18:44:08 (permalink)
Yeh I hope to see you there too, introduce yourself as I don't know you do I? Just look for a bod in a W'chair! Don't assume it's the gauge, possible causes of this fault are badly corroded wires to the sender or corroded contacts, make sure your battery is also fully charged, it's a good idea before each winter to thoroughly clean and protect with an anti moisture spray any electrical contact you can get too. Electrical problems on cars of this age (23 years remember) are not only caused by component failure but by failing wiring, corrosion and oxidation. Incidentally the full reading at cold sounds like the sender has gone to ground , my hunch is it's a connection problem, waggle the wires on the sender (when you locate it) and see if you get a similar fault. the 1/4 full reading after the engine was warm sounds like it has the correct amount of oil and reads correctly under the right circumstances ie no leak to ground.
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SuperBlue Racing v Motul 600 2005/03/07 18:42:32 (permalink)

I've been doing a bit of homework regarding the Super Blue Race Brake Fluid and found a great couple of sites comparing the boiling point (Dry and Wet) and price for a number of brands of fluid.

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/BrakeFluidComparison.html

It would appear (of the ones compared) that Castrol SRF is the best with 590 dry and 518 wet but at over $2US per oz it's by far the most expensive.

Super Blue's boiling at 536 dry and 392 wet and is arround 30cents US per oz. Please note it is considerable more expensive over here though.

When looking at the boiling points it looks like Motul 600 is good value for money at arround 70cents US and has boiling points of 585dry and 421wet. And what's more is more readily available here in the UK.

So my question is - Has anyone out there used Motul 600? What do you think of it? And are there any issues if there are small quantities of the old stuff left in the system when I change it?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks

Cheers
Bazgillie
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Heating 2005/03/14 20:56:13 (permalink)
Have changed the heat exchangers on the car and found that the control valves were rotten. Got a pair second hand but the breaker sent me 2 drivers side ones so have refitted one old one and wedged it open. At the same time I changed some of the heater hoses. I bought some Techflex 800 which is basically the same stuff as used in hot air house heating systems and a fraction of the cost of the pipe that the specialist stitch us up with. Car is now so hot I have to keep opening window until I get another control valve. So if your heating is not good make sure the valves and pipes are OK.
Baz
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