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Is your PSE still working?

Thank you … especially the info. on the changeover valve.

Something that I do check occasionally since having the nearside actuator`s vacuum hose shear off it`s `nipple` connection (new actuator fitted under warranty). When this happened a yellow`cooling system` warning light was activated, due to the commonality of / with the vacuum system … thanks Ralph.

My last inspection revealed that the nearside valve had remaining closed with the engine off. A `calibrated tap`- lubrication - exercise released it.

Was your car started from cold as the valves closed almost immediately, from cold mine take quite a bit longer and coincide with the idle speed reducing.

 
AndrewCS said:
Thank you … especially the info. on the changeover valve.

Something that I do check occasionally since having the nearside actuator`s vacuum hose shear off it`s `nipple` connection (new actuator fitted under warranty). When this happened a yellow`cooling system` warning light was activated, due to the commonality of / with the vacuum system … thanks Ralph.

My last inspection revealed that the nearside valve had remaining closed with the engine off. A `calibrated tap`- lubrication - exercise released it.

Was your car started from cold as the valves closed almost immediately, from cold mine take quite a bit longer and coincide with the idle speed reducing.


It's interesting you say that because I had the coolant light illuminates around Christmas time put it down to the car sitting for too long.

They close immediately on mine, as soon as the vacuum hits, but won't open til the car finishes it's cold start program even with the button on.

Glad you found it useful.
 
testdrive_tv said:
Hopefully useful and definitely worth checking if you haven't been using your car so much lately, below is a video I made documenting some issues with my PSE and how to check your own.

https://youtu.be/nC4VGnYJ4QM
Thanks very much for that - very interesting as I knew about the flaps and actuators but not about the changeover valve.

AndrewCS said:
Something that I do check occasionally since having the nearside actuator`s vacuum hose shear off it`s `nipple` connection (new actuator fitted under warranty). When this happened a yellow`cooling system` warning light was activated, due to the commonality of / with the vacuum system … thanks Ralph.

My last inspection revealed that the nearside valve had remaining closed with the engine off. A `calibrated tap`- lubrication - exercise released it.

Thanks. That's interesting, my 981 BGTS is currently waiting (parts are in stock, OPC currently closed due to Covid-19) for both exhausts and actuators to be replaced under extended warranty, one of the valves is seized and the other one has had it's little arm snapped off by the actuator as the valve is also seized. And also, when driving the car recently the cooling system has reported a fault (temps are OK and no coolant leaks) which I've also asked the OPC to look at when it goes in - looks likely that it's related to the PSE vacuum system somewhere. Once my car is out of warranty I will be checking the PSE valves regularly for any sign of seizing because replacing the exhausts is expensive, in my case it makes the extended warranty well worth having so pleased about that!
 
Over a five month period both valves on my 2015 981 seized. Whole muffler section of exhaust replaced under warranty (Thank you Porsche! £1,000+ each time if not under warranty!).

As I appraoch the end of my warranty, I too will be checking these regularly. As such, can anyone recomend a high temperature lube for the acceible parts of the assembly?
 
Not an easy item / area to retain lubrication hence regular use being the key, methinks.

I used a mix of WD40 / Lithium grease / Copper grease on the actuator rod shaft and it`s `socket` connection to the valve / flap. Plus a cursory `tap` with a pin hammer !
 
Just picked up a 981 GTS with this problem. One valve is permanently closed, the actuator arm fails to move whether the engine is turned on/off or when PSE button pressed. The other side moves up on engine start but doesn’t go up or down when PSE is pressed. So this sounds like a changeover valve issue ? The more worrying problem is that the actuator arm has rusted from the valve, shown in the image. Is this a new box or can that be fixed ?
9AD0694BAA8A4EF989C2BB9F78B53CAE.jpg

 
Hi, sorry to hear that. This is a different issue your valve is seized. If you spray a lot of penetrant on that area and gently knock / prise it you may be able to release it. I would take it slow and not try to force it otherwise it might snap.


If you have warranty take it to the dealer but if not a good proper garage can maybe weld a nut on and free it that way.
 
Thanks for the advice, I‘ve spoken to the dealers (a specialist, not OPC) and they’re going to look at it. Just wondering if that broken arm/valve linkage could be fixed or whether a new box may be required. Great videos by the way !
 
Richo67 said:
Thanks for the advice, I‘ve spoken to the dealers (a specialist, not OPC) and they’re going to look at it. Just wondering if that broken arm/valve linkage could be fixed or whether a new box may be required. Great videos by the way !



I've just seen the picture of the other one, yes that's really bad, would like to think they can weld it back to the mechanism. The other one is probably seized looking at the state of the other. Try moving it manually and if it won't move do what I said earlier with the penetrant and get tapping (gently).

 
The PSE seems to be a real weak point on 981 models - otherwise they are a pretty solid and reliable car. It's worth bearing in mind Porsche don't even try and fix them once seized or broken which make me think the best solution for the longer term is new exhausts and actuators, I believe they come as a complete assembly. I also wonder if the new ones being supplied now are improved in some way to make them longer lasting. Keeping any lubricant on is almost impossible with the high temperatures - but could be a great help when putting the car away for several weeks as many of us do in the winter.

I have just opted to extend my warranty for peace of mind, Porsche have made changes to the extended warranty - there is a three year option for cars under 12 years old and also no need for the 111 point check for extending an existing warranty.
 
The problem with PSE valves was discussed on the Webinar with JAZ Porsche a few weeks ago. The big advice was to use it regularly, if you are storing the car for months at a time and not driving it they will give issues. The advice was, even in the winter, get the car out, as long as the roads aren't covered in either ice or salt, and use the valves. This might help extend the life of the valves on the system. In terms of lubricant I think the advise was High temperature copper grease, but even that will burn off the first time the exhaust is used on a short drive. It will still help.

Gorsh said:
The PSE seems to be a real weak point on 981 models - otherwise they are a pretty solid and reliable car. It's worth bearing in mind Porsche don't even try and fix them once seized or broken which make me think the best solution for the longer term is new exhausts and actuators, I believe they come as a complete assembly. I also wonder if the new ones being supplied now are improved in some way to make them longer lasting. Keeping any lubricant on is almost impossible with the high temperatures - but could be a great help when putting the car away for several weeks as many of us do in the winter.

I have just opted to extend my warranty for peace of mind, Porsche have made changes to the extended warranty - there is a three year option for cars under 12 years old and also no need for the 111 point check for extending an existing warranty.


Can you provide some more details on that warranty. I was in Porsche about a month ago and wasn't offered this and still needed to either pay for a major service or the 111 point check before the warranty would be offered.
 
I don't agree with using it in the salt, that's bad advice that will make it worse just as you can see on the GTS above. If it's laid up over winter make sure it gets stored with a warm engine, the water produced in the exhaust sits in the valve on a cold start move off the drive type scenario. Don't start and turn off cold during lay up either.

Get plenty lubricant on the mechanism and get under the bumper and move them every now and then with your hand manually. Easy peasy.

If you do use the car run it with it off for a while too as then the mechanism is used in the closed position as it's open by default.

Ref the warranty Porsche replace everything under warranty that isn't working but doesn't mean it's necessary, these mechanisms are serviceable and repairable and you shouldn't feel obliged to get one because of this issue alone.
 
Testdrivescotland said:
I don't agree with using it in the salt, that's bad advice that will make it worse just as you can see on the GTS above. If it's laid up over winter make sure it gets stored with a warm engine, the water produced in the exhaust sits in the valve on a cold start move off the drive type scenario. Don't start and turn off cold during lay up either.

Get plenty lubricant on the mechanism and get under the bumper and move them every now and then with your hand manually. Easy peasy.

If you do use the car run it with it off for a while too as then the mechanism is used in the closed position as it's open by default.

Ref the warranty Porsche replace everything under warranty that isn't working but doesn't mean it's necessary, these mechanisms are serviceable and repairable and you shouldn't feel obliged to get one because of this issue alone.



My post said not to take it out in the salt so we are on the same page :)
 
I`ve run three Cayman`s, all with PSE all year round with the only issue being a detached vacuum line

Not taking a car out due to salt on the road is ... disappointing to hear

Use it, look after it ... enjoy it


 
Hope this isn’t deemed to be off thread but:

Running a 2.7 981 with PSE (yes, I’ve had both sides replaced under warranty for seized valves, see above). I get a really intrusive drone from the exhaust system at 2000 rpm.

Posted on a specific thread but got some poor responses like "drive it faster” blah blah. This seems like a sensible group so here goes...

Would be great to find a solution to this as it’s probably going to push me to chop the car as I use it as a daily driver and it’s a problem at motorway cruise.

Any advice gratefully accepted!
 
Paul Dodds said:
Hope this isn’t deemed to be off thread but:

Running a 2.7 981 with PSE (yes, I’ve had both sides replaced under warranty for seized valves, see above). I get a really intrusive drone from the exhaust system at 2000 rpm.

Posted on a specific thread but got some poor responses like "drive it faster” blah blah. This seems like a sensible group so here goes...

Would be great to find a solution to this as it’s probably going to push me to chop the car as I use it as a daily driver and it’s a problem at motorway cruise.

Any advice gratefully accepted!



Would you be happy with the standard exhaust and remove the PSE silencers? Hold onto them and then you can refit them back onto the car before sale. The hard part of PSE fitting is not the silencers, it is the plumbing and coding. You can pick up a set of nearly new standard silencers for not much money.


AndrewCS said:
I`ve run three Cayman`s, all with PSE all year round with the only issue being a detached vacuum line

Not taking a car out due to salt on the road is ... disappointing to hear

Use it, look after it ... enjoy it



I enjoy my car right through the winter, when weather allows, salt is not an issue, my local councils road department have never heard of the stuff, they barely know what Tarmac is
 

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