Slow window motor
- Thread starter blade7
- Start date
bmnelsc
New member
Clean grease always helps. Also, clean and lubricate the switch...I actually had a switch fall apart on me (cold solders I suppose) so you should check those while you are at it. I don't recall if the motor can be removed with the regulator in place...I don't think so. My experience was replacing the window regulator assembly. (Used one from earlier car - slightly lighter casting but otherwise identical).blade7 said:
It is a HUGE PITA to remove and replace. You also need to tape the window in the upright position so it wont interfere while you work. It takes a perfectly sequenced move through a prescribed arc and it will slip in easily. Anything else results in the regulator jamming up on the edges of the hole, door skin, etc. All I can say is patience and don't force it. When you hit a snag - back up a couple of inches and try shifting the assembly around a little (tilt horizontally and vertically) and try again. When you luck upon the perfect position it will slip right in so quickly you won't notice what you did right. Then you will realize that you didn't feed your window rollers on and have to back out and try again. Another 15 minutes of cursing and oops! it slips in again.
Good luck...patience is the key!
vitesse
Active member
I've done both doors on my red 924S when they became painfully slow or wouldn't move at all.Cleaned both switches 1st & applied Vaseline to cleaned copper contacts with little improvement.
Removal is pretty much as described by Bruce above-you re-attach the switch once door card removed then alter mechanism until it is the right shape to remove through the door aperture.
Once motor removed from mechanism,mine were rusty from water ingress so opened the case & found a suitable socket to fit over the output gear which was seized in its plain bearing,applied lots of GT85 plus light oil & worked gear to & fro' to free it properly.
Cleaned everything including old grease in the worm drive casing then regreased with some open gear moly grease I have several aerosols of & reassembled,having tested motor 1st.Worked fine & has done ever since on 1 side.The other side had gash motor so bought a s/h one from James at Only 9 ,regreased that one's gearbox ,refitted & been fine ever since .
Also cleaned the roller guides ,felt channels etc .
I have since replaced the outer rubber seals & although they impose a slightly higher load on the glass,windows still ok but better with engine running when car is cold.
Removal is pretty much as described by Bruce above-you re-attach the switch once door card removed then alter mechanism until it is the right shape to remove through the door aperture.
Once motor removed from mechanism,mine were rusty from water ingress so opened the case & found a suitable socket to fit over the output gear which was seized in its plain bearing,applied lots of GT85 plus light oil & worked gear to & fro' to free it properly.
Cleaned everything including old grease in the worm drive casing then regreased with some open gear moly grease I have several aerosols of & reassembled,having tested motor 1st.Worked fine & has done ever since on 1 side.The other side had gash motor so bought a s/h one from James at Only 9 ,regreased that one's gearbox ,refitted & been fine ever since .
Also cleaned the roller guides ,felt channels etc .
I have since replaced the outer rubber seals & although they impose a slightly higher load on the glass,windows still ok but better with engine running when car is cold.
Waylander
New member
Just keep you digits out the way, a window motor is more than capable of cutting a finger off
if you are going to strip the motor and clean it out the cover is riveted on
they will need drilling out and a new gasket made and refitted with self tappers
when it’s apart you can adjust the free play and backlash in the worm drive
do not use any kind of petroleum based lubricant on the channel rubbers for the glass use silicone only
if you are going to strip the motor and clean it out the cover is riveted on
they will need drilling out and a new gasket made and refitted with self tappers
when it’s apart you can adjust the free play and backlash in the worm drive
do not use any kind of petroleum based lubricant on the channel rubbers for the glass use silicone only
vitesse
Active member
On my 924S,the gear mechanism plate cover is held on with small setscrews-I didn't strip the motor as having freed the driveshaft ,attaching my battery charger showed the motor was working well.
Had a similar problem with the rear wiper-again it was the spindle fretting in it's plain bearing due to corrosion because of possible water ingress.Stripped & cleaned everything & buffed the spindle well -also cleaned the mating spur gear quadrants responsible for the wipe reversing motion,greased well with the grease mentioned above & re-assembled -(check the spur gear arrangement before stripping).
Now works like clockwork.
Had a similar problem with the rear wiper-again it was the spindle fretting in it's plain bearing due to corrosion because of possible water ingress.Stripped & cleaned everything & buffed the spindle well -also cleaned the mating spur gear quadrants responsible for the wipe reversing motion,greased well with the grease mentioned above & re-assembled -(check the spur gear arrangement before stripping).
Now works like clockwork.
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