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Poor running S2

russmw

PCGB Member
Member
Any chance some piping was disturbed when the filter was done? Sounds like a sizable air leak might be the culprit (and would be a cheap fix 👍)

 
ok so replaced my fuel filter during the week. Now the car has developed a problem. I’m not sure that the problem is connected to the filter change. The car started and ran fine. I took it to a car wash where I jet washed the car. Nothing to serious just enough to lift the dust of the car.
Restarted the car and drove off to go and meet with some pcgb members about 50 miles away. The car was having a problem idling and would almost stop then catch and hunt a bit.
Any drive onto the motorway and cruised at a nice steady pace 70 Ish mph.
Pulled off the motorway and drove down to the hotel. The car appeared to die like it wasn’t getting any fuel. I managed to get it to start by jumping it In gear. I struggled to the hotel. The car wouldn’t run. It would start and Rev and die as soon as you let the throttle off.
Managed to get it to start and drive home. It cut every time I lifted off the throttle and would lurch and kangaroo when held at constant throttle.
Back firing coughing and spluttering. feels like it’s not running smoothly at all. Maybe missing a bit as well. Also smoking. Tail pipe is black.

Changed DME relay. No difference.

Noticed wiring to hall sensor in distributer looks baldly chaffed.

Any ideas



 
Mine was idling badly and got gradually worse to the point where it would start then die instantly. I suspected the ICV. Took the manifold to change it as I have a spare and found the pipe from ICV to manifold was almost split in two. Ordered another from OPC Leicester and currently have some Heath Robinson hosepipe in its place.

 
Ok update.

Fuel filter not in backwards. The fitting on the out side of the filter was not sealing properly. Not leaking or weeping just not sitting quite right. Played around with the fittings on the filter and got it to seal properly. Started the car and it ran pretty well. Holding an idle etc. Raving with a bit of smoke but no where near as much as before. Then the idle went and the car started hunting again and smoking when I reved it. Pulled the plugs. All really sooty. Changed them for a good set I had lying around. Car started but still wouldn’t idle very well. Switched it of and fiddled with the wiring and plug in the hall sensor on the distributor. Wires are badly chaffed and a bit melted. Wiggled the wires around started car and it ran beautifully.

Ok. So unplugged the sensor and car continues to run smoothly. Plugged it back in and car is running really well. So next thing is to clean up and fix the bad wiring at the sensor.

But why did it still run with the sensor unplugged ? I always thought that’s what sends the pulse signal to the coil for the spark.

 
The hall sensor at the front of the engine, tells the ECU where the engine is in relation to firing

with no signal from the sensor the ECU reverts to all at the same time to activate the injectors, when its working they fire off sequentialy

also with no signal it retards the ignition timing 5-10 degrees

the plugs can be replaced

i got mine from a place called brandshatch performance, they are three pin junior timer plugs

 
Ok. I’ve got a spare plug and a sensor. I’m going to change them both. I thought the engine wouldn’t run with the sensor unplugged. I’m wondering now if it’s been like that for a while and the fuel issue has just highlighted it.

 
You have to remove the cam cover to change the sensor

all new gaskets and seals, pain in the bum for one bolt

 
I think you can get away with re-using cam cover & plug gaskets (well it worked for me..)

 
The only change I noticed when I fixed my dodgy Hall sensor wiring was a remarkable improvement in fuel consumption!

Ian

 
yes thats one of the benefits of a working sensor, fires the right injector at the right time not all at once, and the ignition timing is much more advanced

 
Changed plug on hall sender. Car is transformed. Running really well. The car always gave a bit of dirty smoke at very high revs. Now no smoke and as I say running so much better.

 
It must have been drawing air at high load the whole time the car has been back on the road. Its running really well.

 
Ok problem is back. I unplugged the sensor at the cam and no difference. Sounds like it’s missing and running on three. Black smoke and rough idle. Any suggestions.

 

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