Winter Job List

[J4CKO]

Will be taking my car (S2 Cab) off the road once the summer is out of the way, will put it in for belts and then tackle the crusty bits in a nice warm garage, the tin worm doesnt seem to be too advanced judging by my endoscopic camera but we shall see when I clean the paint/stone chip off, going to do a proper job and take it slowly and then make sure it is fully protected.

Need to know how the oem stonechip is applied, want to get the same effect, someone has done behind the wheels before and it looks like some 1970's ceiling effect, is it a single piece/sticker of some kind of spray ?

I intend to get some protectant into the sills for future protection, any sugestions as to how this is best done and what the best stuff is.

With regards to the belts, what is the best option int he Cheshire/South Manchester area, anyone know of anyone mobile who will come and do it, warm garage and brews provided along with cash, am budgeting £500 for belts, is this realistic, was last done Sept 08 and 15k ago so reckon it is due, what are the chances of me making it to September without them failing, need to temper my natrual panic about them versus getting them done every few weeks !

Might put some 968 Castor mounts on as well, does doing this require a full geometary setup ?

Will put soem braided brake hoses on, are the ones off Ebay ok ?

Might also re-de the seats, anyone tried that system where you sand them down, fill the cracks and spray them ?

Anything else generally worth doing to 944's, given its age, put Statins in the oil, put it on tablets for high oil pressure ?

 

[Jonny944CS]

Need to know how the oem stonechip is applied, want to get the same effect, someone has done behind the wheels before and it looks like some 1970's ceiling effect, is it a single piece/sticker of some kind of spray ?

SHUTZ IT! []

Wurth do a good quality 1K product call SKS stone guard. Not sure what the factory use but I image it is a '2-pack' system from Glasurit or similar. I used a 3M 2-pack product for my steel fuel tank => much tougher but rather pricy for doing large areas and you need a proper mask and ventillation.

The finish is best achieved using a Shutz gun linked to a compressor. The 'OEM effect' is acheived by adjusting the air supply pressure until you get the desired pattern.

Most types require a good few hours of drying time as they tend to shrink when curing. Also, some are not over-paintable - worth checking first.

 

[Chrishazle]

Ref the seats, have a look at this post : http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=703411.

 

[Copperman05]

I intend to get some protectant into the sills for future protection, any sugestions as to how this is best done and what the best stuff is.

Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 is used alot here and performs well, probably best to get the car on ramp so you can access front wing bottoms, cills and arches, also use cill drainage holes to access but do not clog them up.

Might put some 968 Castor mounts on as well, does doing this require a full geometary setup ?

Yes it will

Anything else generally worth doing to 944's, given its age, put Statins in the oil, put it on tablets for high oil pressure ?

Even if its being garaged over the winter I would still want to take it out periodically for a good run (in good weather) to prevent condensation buildup in the cills and other vulnerable areas, cars that are used often tend to fair better than those that are not over the long term and you may help prevent storage issues cropping up in the spring.

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Edd

 

[Chrishazle]

Get your 968 castor bushings either through K300/porsche968uk or Hartech - lots cheaper than OPC etc and probably better as well!

 

[Frenchy]

Wurth SKS was the original stuff used by Porsche on the sills.

 

[peanut2]

ORIGINAL: J4CKO

Will be taking my car (S2 Cab) off the road once the summer is out of the way,

that'll be the end of this week then []
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there is always a healthy debate about the best way to preserve sills . I looked at many different solutions and in the end decided to use oil ...well a mixture of sump oil and grease actually.

The trouble with a lot of the Waxoil type treatments is that they can cover up rust that is continuing underneath out of sight. you need to be sure you have removed all rust before using this type of treatment.

The beauty of using sump oil is that it creeps well and it soaks into the steel and covers up nothing.( When did you ever see any rust on the chassis of old cars suffering oil gasket leaks ?)

I treated my sill rust with a sump oil/ grease mix 3x years ago as a temporary measure and it now looks exactly the same as it did 3x years ago and I still haven't got around to dealing with the rust damage.[]