What should I do next to my 993?

[Mario149]

Posted this on PH initially but thought I might get more response here!

Had my 993 a bit over 4 years which is the longest I've ever owned a car by quite some margin. Car gets driven on road and track. Have given her quite a bit of TLC over the years (full details bar the last service here: http://www.pistonheads.com/members/showServiceHistory.asp?carId=200116 )and her current spec is:

993 C2 manual Cab
Koni FSDs + M033s
Superpro bushes
New top mounts all round (Centre Gravity, checked and replaced a few other bits a couple of years ago)
OMP strut brace
Carnewal RSR mufflers (gratuitous vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HzC5cbTkcQ)
Clear lenses on front/repeaters
HID Kit
Calipers repainted in red and overhauled
Paint and fit front air ducts
Dash clocks refaced in white

I'm starting to get an itch to upgrade/tweak her a bit more. My musings....

- Interior is commensurate with mileage so I do daydream about a retrim about once a year but the cost appears to be pretty mega.
- Cab hood lining could do with some TLC and other than that the only thing that bugs me is the fact that the speedo over-reads by 10%+ but apparently this is pretty normal
- remap by Wayne Schofield, although last time I tried to get hold of him I had no joy despite repeated attempts and he is miles away. Also worried about changing the character of the engine too much
- Quaife/Wavetrac LSD, but lots of money to buy and esp fit unless you're doing a clutch etc at the same time I believe, not sure it's worth it.

Was wondering what thoughts people had and whether I'm missing anything obvious?

 

[wilsonny]

nice list .... have you tackled the dreaded chassis legs ? could be a world of problems there that you don't know about.

I see you've done the MPL, so RS shortshift would be the obvious. (LSD and light weight flywheel would be nice of course)
Stealth audio upgrade if that's your bag ?
I don't see engine mounts changed ?
If you've got a/c there's bound to be work to do there !
I can thoroughly recommend the dyno tune by Wayne....all changes mega positive.

How do you rate the Koni's against the PS10's you had previously ? I'm interested because I want something that doesn't lose the standard road feel, but is perhaps a little tighter for the occasional track day.

Andrew

 

[Mario149]

nice list .... have you tackled the dreaded chassis legs ? could be a world of problems there that you don't know about.

I see you've done the MPL, so RS shortshift would be the obvious. (LSD and light weight flywheel would be nice of course)
Stealth audio upgrade if that's your bag ?
I don't see engine mounts changed ?
If you've got a/c there's bound to be work to do there !
I can thoroughly recommend the dyno tune by Wayne....all changes mega positive.

How do you rate the Koni's against the PS10's you had previously ? I'm interested because I want something that doesn't lose the standard road feel, but is perhaps a little tighter for the occasional track day.

Andrew

Last time chassis legs were mentioned at a service was a couple of years ago and also when CG had it. Both times it was noted that they were in excellent condition. Local aircooled specialists who seem good so far (RSR: https://www.facebook.com/RSRPorscheSpecialists/?fref=ts) didn't mention them at the last service, but she's due to go back to them this year in June so will ask them to check if they haven't already.

Short shift sounds interesting, anyone got any feedback? Don't want to potentially end up with a stiff/awkward change for the sake of swapping cogs a bit quicker...!

Engine mounts not done to my knowledge - is that an upgrade that will improve the drive? Or is it just a "check they're not ****ged" thing?

No a/c so less complication! Although during 40 degs+ in Sardinia 2.5 years ago I think I would have traded cool for complication/cost

Ref Wayne's tune, I'd want to ensure that power was gained pretty evenly everywhere, not just mid range and little/no increase top end. Ideally I'd actually prefer an incrementally larger gain at the top end. Current dyno from a few years ago, not bad for an old girl with 125K on the clock at the time who in theory left the factory with 268 bhp! SRR thought she'd come out in the 250s....

Ref PSS10s v Koni FSDs....PSS10s were very good, the adjustability was great when you got to the track and wanted to dial things up. But for me they were right on the limit of what would be okay for the road even on their softest setting AND that was with the 25% less stiff springs CG recommended fitting (since my car is a Cab). The FSDs with MO33s (lower but not stiffer springs) are a great compromise I think, and while the car doesn't feel quite so sharp on track, its road comfort is still sporty but much more pleasant.

 

[wilsonny]

Koni's sound the ideal mix to me...very tempted, but I've still a few things to do before that myself. I DO have a/c on mine and I'm currently working through a more or less full replacement to make sure it's working right.

Engine mounts are definitely worth it. I think most people reckon they'll be shot at 50K - mine certainly were. Looking from the lower side of the engine carrier, you could see the distinctive drop. I stayed with stock C2 mounts and could certainly feel the benefit, ie. less sense of weight shifting in the rear when cornering particularly over undulating roads. Lots of others go for the C4 solids of course.

Regarding the dyno tune, here's the before and after dyno from my car at Wayne's: https://we.tl/YJykN7zqfv
- mine's a varioram, which is the cause of the torque dip before the tune at low RPM's. Pretty much what you're looking for regarding improvements across the board and a little more at the top ? I can't see any negatives after the tune, the engine has more pull everywhere and runs smoother throughout. My own thought is that if cost hadn't been an issue, Porsche would have liked to have individually dyno tuned every one themselves from the factory...

Just a word of caution that it is really difficult to know what your chassis legs really look like until you get down to removing those winglet plates connecting the body to the rear wing. Mine looked perfect from the outside and I was lucky that it was just a bit of surface corrosion, could have been much worse.

ANdrew

 

[clyde]

My chassis legs were the same - seemed reasonable until the plate was removed. Although it was only surface rust I had the bodyshop cut it all out and replace with new steel for peace of mind - I don't want to have to do it again in a few years time.

 

[wilsonny]

Andrew, your Dyno link won't work for me .. was your VRAM playing up ?

hi maurice...strange, the link works OK for me (click download on the page if it opens)...my problem was just a low rev dip in torque, which Wayne tuned out. he explained this to be due to the mass air flow sensor getting confused by a reverberating air wave at low revs. ....it reads this as more air being present, so the mixture goes too rich. ..he tunes this out and you get the improved torque response at this low rev point.

 

[scaramanga]

Things I would consider if I were in your shoes:
- RS short shift and FDM "golden rod"
- sports cats (the company down in ashford did mine)
- Wayne remap after the cats are upgraded.

The cats will sound lovely with your RSRs, and then the Wayne remap improved it again further.

Just my 2p. Have done all of the above to mine and not regretted it one bit!

 

[Jonttt]

Smaller / thicker steering wheel if you have the standard item, 360 / RS size transforms the drive feel. 340mm is too small for a 993 IMHO, makes it feel like a go cart, 380mm OEM too big / too thin.

I always fit Raid wheels as I want to retain the airbag feature.

ps another thumbs up for Wayne, yes a little bit more BHP but the main change is low down, oh and the sound especially if you already have RSR mufflers fitted, his remap really lets them snap and crackle ;-)

Rear wiper widget ?

 

[Jonttt]

1. Stock OEM mufflers
2. OEM RSR Mufflers (nb OEM big oval exhaust tips added but they don't affect sound).
3. OEM RSR Mufflers and remap by Wayne Schofield

1. Stock OEM mufflers


2. OEM RSR Mufflers (nb OEM big oval exhaust tips added but they don't affect sound).


3. OEM RSR Mufflers and remap


The exhaust sounds tinnier on film than it does in real life if your listening on PC speakers. After the remap the exhaust pops and burbles a lot more freely. Its great in traffic in 2nd gear and awesome under load when accelerating :thumb:

 

[Mario149]

Quick update: I was at Wayne's yesterday getting the remap done. Well worth the 500 mile round trip. 993 now driving smooth as silk and producing a little under 296bhp at 6200rpm with power added incrementally throughout the rev range - feels like she's just been dialled up to 11 []

Love the fact that her character hasn't changed and you still need to rev her to get the reward - it's just the reward is now a little bigger! She seems a bit louder/angrier too now, also with a few extra burbles and bangs which is nice

Also very impressed that she was showing 285bhp before any work was even done - not bad for a 132K mile / 24 year old car that was only supposed to have 268bhp to start with when she left the factory! Not an engine that was built on a Friday afternoon as Wayne put it Only non standard items are Carnewal's mufflers and an OE motorsound airbox.