Tramlining ?

[J4CKO]

My car will be going in for belts and stuff to a chap called Tony Greatorex very soon as they are due, am wondering if there are some other little improvements that can be made whilst it is in.

The steering tramlines a bit around the straight ahead, it is like there is some play somewhere in the steering or suspension, by no means horrendous but was wondering what the likely culprit is, its a feeling that the wheels are following their own track a little regardless of steering input, it is fine when leaning on it but when ambling it is there, it is a cab so not expecting miracles given the inherent floppiness and I dont want to make it any stiffer suspension wise.

Any ideas ?

 

[edh]

what size wheels? If larger than 17" have you got uprated caster mounts?

Geo and tyre pressures ok?

 

[PSH]

It could just be the car ... 944's are well know for tram-lining, if you read the road tests of the day this was often commented on so unless it has changed since you've owned the car it may just be it's normal characteristic's. If not check bearings, steering arm and play in wishbone joints etc etc.

Pete

 

[J4CKO]

Standard 16's, I keep an eye on tyre pressure, geo could probably do with setting up, however finding someone local to do it is proving a problem, Hartech scared me by saying £300 plus whatever time it takes to free any stuck bolts, plus got a bit of chicken and egg situation, dont want to get it set up and then upgrade bits and have to have it done again, I beleive that if I change the Castor mounts it would need doing again, ditto if I poly bush it ?

Is it possible to mark up anythign on the suspension accurately enough so if you do upset the geo it can be set back ?

 

[edh]

Front geo is simple enough - rear is more tricky & can be seized. Some places won't touch it. Maybe start with having the front toe settings checked?

 

[J4CKO]

Ah yes, isnt the Golf similar to a MK1 Golf in terms of adjustments, camber via the eccentric nut between strut and hub, toe in and out via the track rod ends, not sure about castor adjustment though, is this all stuff a normal garage can do with the traditional gauges ?

 

[edh]

I don't see why not

lower arm rear mount is slotted to allow for castor adjustments. 968 part has less rubber so is a bit better.

Nothing complicated about 944 front suspension []

 

[944 man]

Mark, for the £30 it will cost to have the front done properly, Id go to a specialist. Id also look at Hartech 968 style castor mounts too, even if youre running on original diameter wheels (they cost £84).


Simon

 

[J4CKO]

happy with £30, £50 or £100 but Hartech made is sound like a really big, expensive, open ended deal, will get Tony to fit the Castor mounts and ask him to do the alignment, want to make one trip to get all the bits done.

I seem to remember on a a MK1 Golf GTI disturbing the alignment but then scratching round the nut position for camber with a scribe and then putting it back to that same positions and it seemed fine, i.e. after alignment, god knows how near or far it was but it felt fine.

Anyone do it themselves, would be nice to try different settings.

 

[Hilux]

ORIGINAL: J4CKO

I seem to remember on a a MK1 Golf GTI disturbing the alignment but then scratching round the nut position for camber with a scribe and then putting it back to that same positions and it seemed fine, i.e. after alignment, god knows how near or far it was but it felt fine.

You are right about Mk1 Golfs - the suspension design in my view was copied accordingly the metal control arms are almost the same.

De- grease thoroughly around the concentric nut/washer and use Tippex (or for more durability - paint) to draw a line a little way around the curve so its on the strut and the washer.

If the strut is disturbed or disconnected from the hub housing it will go back exactly where you had it originally so you can remove with confidence and re-fit. []

Same for bonnet/hatch hinge bolts - saves adjusting them when refitting []

 

[bmnelsc]

My 91 S2 was doing this to varying degrees and I found some relief with new tires (needed rears so replaced them all - fronts probably had 40% left) and keeping tire pressures at recommended (36psi on mine) seemed to clear it up on all but the most rutted roads.

This spring I had a ball joint go bad so I rebuilt the control arms with the bronze bushing kit and replaced a rear mount that had cracked rubber. Then I got a 4 wheel alignment (C$200 at the independent - and these guys aren't inexpensive) and the car seems very good now.

By the way - this ball joint problem never showed up till this year - probably after running through some large potholes (winter is particularly hard on road surfaces in Canada). When I took it apart the ball was very worn with only about 50% of the plastic top bush left (in pieces of course - the bush on the good side was in two pieces also but still fit together). It appears that these joints can get quite corroded before showing play. Also - the rear mount looked fine - couldn't tell it had failed until the control arm was off the car. So - worth a good look round.

 

[944 man]

At Roddison Motorsport in Sheffield, it costs about £80 for a full car (£30 front & £50 rear, but they both need doing together). The front woill only ever cost £30, but the rear can cost more if its siezed. £100 is pretty much the top line though, and I wouldnt ever pay more than that.