Sump refitting (Silastic RTV 730 - do you use it)

[robsangster]

Currently engine out - so im attending to all those 'do it while its out' jobs, rather than pay the price later.
Im going to pop the sump and have a good clean/inspection of everything and will obviously change the gasket. The tech specifies using Silastic RTV 730 around the corners when refitting a new gasket, however this is pretty damn expensive stuff for just one application. (see clarks garage) has anyone used the alternative also mentioned in Clarks bulletin (Permatex Ultra Grey) - or refitted without using anything?
I'd be interested to hear.....
Likewise if anyone has some that they bought and is now surplus having completed the job, maybe we could come to an 'arrangement'!
Thanks in advance!

 

[TTM]

If I remember correctly the workshop manual doesn't state using any sort of sealant, though sealant should be used on 4 "corners" of the gasket - this is how they came from the factory.

 

[robsangster]

errr thats what I meant! The corners

 

[Hilux]

The corners can leak hence the added sealer at those points and in particular the front R/H corner is renowned for leaking.

The cause for corner leaks can also be the fact the the sump bolts have been overtightened to stem the flow on a leak and as they are only M6?? they strip the threads in the block ensuring a leak.

If anything is not coming off my cars very often I use silicone sealant ensuring that emphasis is on the outer edge for surplus as you dont want lumps of it in yer oil if you can help it. The silicone is sufficiently heat resistant but not easily parted and requires silicone remover to get rid of it all.

The alternative is Blue Hylomar - Non or partially setting and partable.

Also....................silicone sealant is also remarkably heat resistant so when gone off it can help with exhaust joint blows/flange seals etc. It does with me anyway as I`ve always found exhaust paste useless.