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Sill structure

K

kdp

New member
I've always thought that the sill was a box structure with an inner and outer skin, but having read the recent thread on the A1 accident and seen photos of people fixing their sills, I've realised that's not the case.

This got me thinking as to what I'm looking at when I view the inside of the sills on my car when I remove the door vent. Obviously, I can only see 2 surfaces so could someone tell me what I am viewing?

It seems to me that you are only getting half the picture as to the condition of the sills in that case.

Keith
 
Keith

You're looking straight at the inner side of the sill, there's no double layer.

P1030534.JPG


HTH

Gerry
 
Did EMC drill those holes for you Gerry? I have a template, but havent ever manned-up enough to start drilling... [:D]
 
Nah , did them myself with a drill/saw bit from B&Q.

I originally asked Kevin, but he said it's a doddle you can do it! he was right.

PM sent.

Gerry
 
Gerry is right OP as regards the rear quarter. ie from the door back.

Forward of there, there are 3 skins.

The inner skin has the handbrake recess pressed into it, the centre sheet is vertical and strongest, the outer skin is the sill seen from the side of the car.

If you look into the door vent you are looking into the outer cavity.

If you remove the grommets in the inner sill near the ECU in the footwell, you are looking into the inner cavity (which is not as wide)

hope this helps

George
944t
 
Thanks for your reply George - I can visualise the structure now.

I have sprayed through the drain holes and door vents to protect the sills as best as I can and am wondering if the thinner inner section needs treating. Is it possible to treat this section and has anyone attempted this or is it not really necessary?

Keith
 
kdp,
i protected the inner cavity with a 20:1 mix of waxoyl and thinners. It sprays in very well thru a shultz gun with 80psi and a 3/8" bore pvc hose 80cm long.
I fish the hose in as far as possible and slowly withdraw it as the wax is sprayed in. I used the 40mm grommets to access the cavity, and refitted them after.

The wax mix is really thin and 50% of it will leak straight out of the vent holes in the base of the sill. Its good to see it coming out as it proves the distribution of the wax in the cavity. (eg, Put 2L in and you get 1L back)

A 2m length of rain gutter under the sill is recommended to catch the excess which can be reused.

The good thing is it penetrates into the joints in the sill.

There will be differing views of this but its worked for me with various 944s since about 1990.

hope it helps.
George
944t
 
A picture speaks 1000 words Colin. Thats perfect.

The blue centre member is the main structure and has holes in it to remove dead weight. The holes are too high up and too small to allow much shared effect of proofing one cavity. They both need to be done IMO
 
Dinitrol Cavity Wax is very viscous and gets into the seams as George has described 4 x 500 ml tins plus an extension applicator for around £35 on good ol e bay.
 
When you decide to go for it [;)] you may be aware but if not then you can get up to 60mm rubber blanking grommets (possibly bigger)

I think if I was doing it I would determine what was the optimum hole size for re-indexing and drill a hole close to that size to suit the appropriate grommet so as to stop water getting in needlessly.
 
Plug the holes with a wheel center cap, maybe smaller fluch size MIT suit the shape more? With a bit off Silcone should tap out from behind easy anoth
 
Yes but unfortunately the body is shaped to accept a cap. ATS/Fuchs caps are worth strong money now, but I suspect that any genuine cap would attract small boys and basecall cap wearers...
 
Yeah, that's what I mean, there's a few types. you could have it body coded so it would just look like an embossed crest. if the contors macthes. I'm sure something could be DIY.

No harder to nick then wheel centres or bonnet badges. something In the hole has got to be better then nothing.
 
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