rough repray price?

[bmnelsc]

My local quotes (western canada) range from CDN$3000 (franchise body shop with rather poor reputation) to CDN$6K to 7K from body shop with good reputation and better business bureau ratings. Around here it is getting harder and harder to find body shops that are interested in doing quality paint work as the profit margins on collision repair favors this type of work over restoration work.

 

[dave364634]

does anyone know how much it would be (red)?

i'd guess £1200/1600.


ta.

 

[pauljmcnulty]

Anything from not a lot to very much a lot. [&:] Where are you, do you want a quick blow-over of a full glass-out restoration, cash or cheque? The possibilities are endless. The fact is that no matter what car you have painted the end result is down to the amount of hours paid for.

 

[stevie d]

It'll depend on a few factors such as where you are in the country , how you pay (i always find cash is a good way of keeping costs down) , what type of paint you want them to use and how much prep work you are prepared to do yourself . I was quoted £1k cash to have mine done if i did all the prep or £2k if they had to strip the car first themselves .

 

[CarreraRSR]

On average £2500 +VAT for a bare metal respray not including the strip down and refit of body parts. I had the multiple quotes and a receipt for the undertaking. A rub down and blow over will be a lot less money.

 

[dave364634]

cheers chaps. i'll look into it.

 

[colin944]

I share garage space with a company who restores VWs. Beetles, split vans etc. They price a respray on how much work is to be done. I've seen prices from £1500 to £5000 depending on what has to be done. I find that with old cars once you strip them and start to remove the paint you always find other things that need doing. Everything from welding to just repairing previous repairs hidden with pain t and filler. So there is no definate answer to your question. What you need to do is contact other owners in youre area and ask them where they got work done and then go out and talk to the bodyshops yourself and decied which one to go with. Big fancy bodyshops are not always the best for what you want. You need someone who knows these cars and knows what they are looking for in order to fet the best job possible.

 

[j4mou]

theres a guy local to me who reckons he can do it really cheap, you should ask Simon aka 944_man as hes friends with the lad. the prices he was quoting were way less than £1500.

 

[vince944red]

I have a 1986 Guards red ....... I was toying with the idea of a respray as it turned pink and no amount of Tcut would improve it more than a month before the oxide came back through. My daughter called it the pink car. As a last ditch attempt I rubbed all the oxidation offf with 2000 grit very wet and dry by hand, and used G3 liquid and a £20 electric polisher and waxed over. Its a days work Its come up like new and I am very relieved I did not have to respray it!

 

[Eldavo]

I'll do you a rough respray for £100. A rattle can in each hand and a quick blow over every panel, I guarantee it'll be rough.

 

[Joss Walker]

ORIGINAL: vince944red As a last ditch attempt I rubbed all the oxidation offf with 2000 grit very wet and dry by hand, and used G3 liquid and a £20 electric polisher and waxed over.

Vince, Did you find any good websites/info that advised on this or did you just take the plunge? I've looked at a load of these detailing sites and they are a nightmare, more opinions than members and many of them seem to be speaking as experts without actually having done anything themselves - this Porsche forum is very rare that when advice is given it is nearly always from people who have actually done it themselves. My paintwork was good but has just been resprayed when the outer sills were replaced, Countryside classics didn't finish the work and haven't rubbed down the top coat and polished it up as you are meant to. I have had a paint detailer give me a quote and he is talking about rubbing it down with wet and dry to remove the dust in the paint and the orange peel effect that is in the lacquer coat, he is talking about 1k! I might do it myself! either that or change career.

 

[Fat Albert]

I use Zymol cleaning polish to turn mine from pink to Red (yes my Wife & Kids call it my pink car too!) I then use Red Colour Magic to make it shiny It takes 3-4 hours to do the car, and then if I get the time 1 hour a month to maintain it...so if someone can tell me a better way of maintaining the shine then I would be extremely grateful!

 

[MZ racer]

Bare metal resprays to a good/high quality. £2000.00 if all trims and windows removed and paint removed by you. £3000.00 if trims and windows removed £4000.00 if all work left to body shop Plus VAT if they are running a straight shop. This was consistant across two body shops on the south coast about 18 months ago. Regards Baz

 

[vince944red]

Rescuing oxidised guards red. Yes I've done it - two weeks ago. Early reds oxidise, we all know that. Cellulose paint, is quite thick but look terrible when white with pink blotches! After several years of trying tcut, machine mop and red wax polish, which lasted 2-3 months I had given up and resigned myself to a re-spray.. My oxidation was very severe not superficial, roof, bonnet rear quarters and bumpers. (Not the front wings as they had been replaced and resprayed before I bought the 944). I'd looked on websites (a lot) but found nothing convincing or a definitive treatment. G3 is used a lot but I was not convinced it was going to fix my problem of frequent reoccurrence. So before a respray I was going to try something more aggressive. Initially I tried 1500 wet and dry followed by 2000 then 2500 on the front trim panel. Not good. 1500 is too aggressive and leaves scratches that are a lot of work to polish out even with a machine. After a 2nd test on a rear wing , I finally found success with the following recipe; 1 Wash all over with clean water to remove any grit. 2 Wipe with white spirit to remove old wax if possible 3 Use wet and dry, rub down panel by panel with wet, 2000 grade, uniformly in long lines not swirls ( this is hard work but essential, red has to be coming off onto the wet and dry and it needs frequent washing down. You get a feel when you are really cutting into the surface) I used my hands not a block. 4 wash down the panel and let it dry. If you still see oxidation whiteness or spots missed then repeat step 3 again until you have a uniform red. You can see areas of white showing gaps between fingers pressing on the wet and dry as it was slid along, clear signs that you were not doing enough. The oxidation does not wet like a proper paint surface so gives itself away. All oxidation has to go without exception! 5 When dry, wipe over with a cloth, all residues have to go. 6 Use G3 . I used Upol 33 paste which was good , but then switched to Farecla G3 liquid as it was more suited to my electric polisher. Don't be afraid to add a lttle water, its not wax. Hand apply. Use the polisher until the panel is a uniform colour and even all over. The polisher is the only way to get evenness over large areas ( you can't do this by hand for large areas unless you are an expert) 5 wipe it down, remove residues, dry. 6 Wax. I used resin wax as that’s what I had and always have used on my other cars, but other polish should be ok, apply by hand, polish with orbital polisher 7 do all the other panels The G3 is superb its nothing like TCUT which is a joke in comparison The important step is ensuring all the oxidation is removed by step 3. If you are a perfectionist there is 2500 wet and dry as well, but I was happy with the results here. Corners and edges can be a problem, professionals mask edges to stop the paint being thinned locally. I had areas on my roof that were down to bare alloy ( on the edge trim) which the previous owner had done, theses areas best done by hand or with care. I tried some photos but its difficult to catch the oxide ugliness in a picture so I gave up but my 944 was 75% pink and now is showroom ( ish) glossy. Of course the nice thing to do would be to lacquer it now but….. So for me the choice of a respray (1k-2k+) at a paint shop or a DIY respray ( buy a compressor then £100+ on paint and learning how to spray then doing it again!) has been avoided by a £10 G3 liquid and £10 of 2000 wet and dry paper. Plus a fiver on a polish waffle pad - not really necessary!.

 

[Copperman05]

ORIGINAL: Fat Albert It takes 3-4 hours to do the car, and then if I get the time 1 hour a month to maintain it...so if someone can tell me a better way of maintaining the shine then I would be extremely grateful!

I good quality wax or paint sealant will make periods between polishing longer but the pink always come back eventually if you just leave it. Something like AutoGlym HD wax is very good and easily obtainable. Edd

 

[j4mou]

ORIGINAL: Fat Albert I use Zymol cleaning polish to turn mine from pink to Red (yes my Wife & Kids call it my pink car too!) I then use Red Colour Magic to make it shiny It takes 3-4 hours to do the car, and then if I get the time 1 hour a month to maintain it...so if someone can tell me a better way of maintaining the shine then I would be extremely grateful!

Autoglym High Definition wax. it will extend the need to do it by about a month.

 

[Joss Walker]

ORIGINAL: Fat Albert 1 hour a month to maintain it...so if someone can tell me a better way of maintaining the shine then I would be extremely grateful!

Before my car was butchered I had a couple of coats of Swissvax 'Best in Show', I know it is quite excessive but it was amazing, it really lasted for over a year no problem, I just washed it every now and then and it looked like new again. It is a really high content carnauba wax and this would seem to be more than just advertising guff!

 

[CarreraRSR]

My current choice of protecting paint from the elements and does a real good job on my car. Auto Glym Super Resin Polish Carlack 68 paint sealant Collinite Marque d'Elegance Collinite has been proven to last up to six months elsewhere and its been on my car for the same time and still beads up water really well. Forget , T Cut, coloured polishes, any thing from turtle wax and car plan!! Looks good for a few days but no durability and is a temporary fix As for resprays, any thing less than £1500 and it'll be shit with loads of imperfections, potential future durability issues etc. etc. This may be fine for you if theres no long term plan to keep the car. In my opinion if you buy cheap you buy twice!!

 

[colin944]

As vince says to restore the colour (red ) then use g3. This will only work on a flat colour ie not metalic as you would have to remove the laquer first on a metalic car. Flat or solid colours are not uaually laquered. When using G3 apply it by hand and polish it with a wet mop on an electric polisher. the painter in our garage will end up soaking wet after polishimg a car. Then wash off the residue and dry the car then cover with a good quality polish or wax.This should keep it red for a while. Don't be fooled into buying all sorts of expensive colour restorer as all professional body shops use G3 and it's about £10 per litre. A really good wax on the other hand is up to you how much you spend.

 

[vince944red]

Yes remember older red cars with cellulose paint have their own set of problems - if you don't have a red one (the fastest colour of course) you have probably not seen the serious white/pink oxidation that occurs over time. Thats why I resorted to wet and dry to remove the oxidation first, then G3, then wax. Forget Tcut, coloured wax products - a lot of work for a temporary solution for a week or two and probably all an expensive detailer would achieve as well as they would not be brutal enough to remove the oxidation..