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replacing rear wheel bearing

Duffman502

New member
Hi all need to replace a rear wheel bearing after a bit of track action does anyone off hand know the size of the hub nut or have a quick guide?
Ive done wheel bearings before but a guide is always handy and ive only got up to 30mm sockets so was a bit stuck.
regards joe
 
Search on youtube there is a good guide for front bearings maybe one for rear ? and Clarks garage website.

Nick [:D]
 
I think it's a 36 but it could be a 34mm? I can quit remember but the same as my beetle and bay van if that helps!
 
I dont know the size but I know from memory they are extremely tight so need a big breaker bar or pneumatic wrench to get free I have heard of people lowering the car down so the breaker bar uses the floor to loosen the nut.
 
That seems excessive i will try and find a torque for it. I would have thought making them tight would clamp the bearing and not give the correct resistance.
Having said that i didnt see a locking pin when i had a quick look so perhaps they do need to be mega tight.
 
It's 36mm. You can use also some Beemer bearings which are cheaper to buy. We installed SKF version to son's project 951.

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I borrowed a socket from work and once id took it all apart the bearing looked in good nick and the nut itself wasnt actually that tight so i retightened it and kept spinning the wheel. As a result its spot on now, so the knock must have just disturbed it a little.
I will change it as a precaution when i get the parts however.
Thank you for the help all
Joe
 
Joe
the socket is only a detail, these bearings are not easily removed and require some degree of tooling to pull them from the casting.
I'd usually get some warmth (40deg C) into the casting before reassembly and give the bearing a night in the freezer before assembly. It will then press home easier.
I got a tool from "Arnworx", from the states, perhaps google it.
Its like everything, easy when you go about it the right way.
Good luck with it
George
944t


 
Im confident enough to do it and have most of the tools i used to work for denis welch motorsport for a time so have done a few just wanted some pics so i knew what i was looking at before i took it completely apart.
But i was a bit younger and didnt want to shell out 20-30 quid for sockets i rarely used.
 
The reason I mentioned the tightness of the axle nut was from the description of the job from Clarks garage on the TIPEC forum, not done it myself had the garage do it for me.

Extract from Clarks Garage on TIPEC forum

Changing the wheel bearing on an aluminum trailing arm is somewhat different than a steel trailing arm. First, the aluminum trailing arm uses a single sealed bearing as opposed to a double roller bearing arrangement. The single sealed bearing is also a bit more difficult to remove from the trailing arm than the bearings in the steel arm.
The Porsche factory manual describes removing the wheel bearing after the trailing arm has been removed from the car. The factory shop manual has you heat the trailing arm to 120 - 150 °C (approximately 250 - 300 °F). Then you press the bearing out from the back side of the trailing arm using special tool VW 432.
Now, I'm sure this method works quite well. However, who wants to remove the trailing arm from the car just to replace the wheel bearing? Not me. So, I elected to use a slide hammer bearing puller to remove the bearing from the trailing arm. And, I didn't heat the trailing arm before removing the bearing. The bearing was a bit stubborn to remove. But, I'm sure it would have been much easier if I had heated the trailing arm first. Consequently, this procedure will differ somewhat from the factory shop manual procedure.
Like the steel trailing arm however, the hardest part of this job may be getting the rear wheel axle nut loose. The reason being is that the axle nut is torqued to 350 ft-lbs. That means if you're using an 18" breaker bar to remove the nut, you have to apply 233 lbs. of weight to the end of the bar. If you're using a 24" breaker bar, you have to apply 175 lbs. of weight to the end of the bar. The problem is that over time, the threads of the axle/nut get a little rust built up on them and then it takes significantly more force than the 350 ft-lb. tightening torque to break the nut free. Sometimes this can double the amount of torque required.
With that in mind, if we assume that the amount of torque required to remove the axle nut has doubled to 700 ft-lbs., it may require a breaker bar as long as 4 feet (48") to get the required weight applied to the end of the breaker bar down to where and average sized individual (175 lbs.) can apply enough force to break the nut free.
 

ORIGINAL: Duffman502

I borrowed a socket from work and once id took it all apart the bearing looked in good nick and the nut itself wasnt actually that tight so i retightened it and kept spinning the wheel. As a result its spot on now, so the knock must have just disturbed it a little.
I will change it as a precaution when i get the parts however.
Thank you for the help all
Joe
will change it as a precaution when i get the parts however.
Thank you for the help all
Joe

It is a 36mm

The nut is not re-useable! It should be very tight - I mean VERY VERY tight.

They are required to be torqued up to some 350lb/ft

I had a 4 foot breaker bar and jumped up and down on it at 13.5 stone to get it sufficiently tight so I was happy to drive it to a garage with a big enough torque wrench and it still wasnt tight enough!! I sat in the car with the handbrake on and the footbrake on and two mechanics still moved the car along tightening it up!!
 

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