Nope the Mobil 1 15w50 has been replaced by the 10w60 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mobil-10w-60-Extended-Motorsport-Synthetic/dp/B002RPL0X2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_3 Available in 5 litre packs
Oil
- Thread starter Cater_Racer
- Start date
Search is your friend; we fairly regularly have rows about oil on here and you're better off reading an old one that starting a new one! (My take on it; cheaper oil, changed every 5000 miles, is a good way forward for sensible motoring. Any 944 engine will have been designed with 30-year-old oil tech in mind, so anything even remotely modern is much better than needed - the car's manual even speaks of using single-grade oil. You don't need to spend a lot to get good oil - look at the API specs on the side of the bottle and try to see how much marketing you are paying for. A good 10W40 semi-synth is fine for an S2 driven as you describe, and I wouldn't waste my money on Mobil 1. A good read is here: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html) Oli.
My Indy uses Mobil 1 15w50 when my oil is changed.
This doesn't appear to be around except in 1L size. is that correct?
Also seen Mobil 1 0w40 noted on some older invoices.
Any comments on suitable oils? I know nothing. Car is standard non cat S2 with just under 100k on clock, not driven hard.
Thanks.
944 man
Active member
Better to ask afresh, in my opinion, than read the old nonsense. 10W-minimum, but 15W is better and as high a top number as you can possibly get -60 in a Turbo, -50 in an S2. Threads like this always attract 'Wikipedia quoters' though, telling us that its all the same a 100 degrees etc...
944 man
Active member
Cheaper good oil maybe, but cheaper oil can be poor. For example, some blenders use cleaned waste oil (recycled in the popular vernacular) mixed with a sniff of synthetic. Sold for many times their worth these are a very poor bet. Something like Fuchs 10W-40 semi for £14 per 5l less discount from Opie makes far more sense (and is cheaper than inferior Halfords/Supermarket oils).
I'll go along with this all the way. And add that discounts on oils can be significant; a Halfords Trade Card knocks a huge %age (more than 50%, I'm told) off the cost of their oils. I buy GM oils through the Vauxhall Trade Club Scheme for less than £1.70p a litre for high-spec 10W40, and that does my S2 fine. As with all things though, the devil is in the detail; look at the API specs on the side of the tin before you buy it and judge on what you see there; SM or SN is good, SL or less is to be avoided. Oli.
PSH
PCGB Member
I have always been a Mobil 1 fan so it's been 15-50w for my car for some time, I wasn't aware that it had been superseded by 10-60w which can only be a good thing. The most important thing is to change the oil often, I don't take any notice of comments like 'it's fully synthetic so will last longer than mineral', it will still break down and for modified turbo cars that often run rich it will break down quicker still. Change your oil often guys, at least every 6k for standard cars and every 3k for highly modified cars. Keep that engine safe...
Pete
Pete
edh
New member
I've got Mobil 1 10w60 in the s2 as I thought it might be a bit worn after 230k miles. Hot idle pressure still stays above 3 bar so I think it's maybe too thick even for track use. i will try 10w50 or even 40 next. 10w60 synth in a track turbo is a good idea I think. Miller's is really good. I tried valvoline semi synth as well but it didn't stand up to the temps. I'd have thought 10w40 was enough for road use in any 944.
Copperman05
New member
As stated the Mobil 15w50 has been superseded by their new 10w60 high mileage oil. 10w60 is a bit thick for winter use in my view and if your not tracking or driving the car hard the thicker oil is a bit unnecessary. There seems to be a lot of misinformation around oil and its suitability. To say an older engine can not benefit from modern oil is not true, whilst you may have to be a little more careful in what you put in, a good quality synthetic oil has many benefits beyond longer service intervals. In a car like yours, not used on track or driven hard 90% of the wear of your engine is going to take place in winter and cold starts. Therefore theoretically you need the thinnest oil you can get away with to circulate the engine quickly in low temps, good quality thin oils like a full synthetic will perform better than thicker cheap ones and will stay in grade long after the cheap oil has broken down. The issue you may face however is that oil consumption may be higher with a thin oil, 0w40 is a bit too thin imo. Other benefits of true synthetic oil is that it is highly polar, meaning it clings to the metal surfaces and protects better from cold starts, also good quality oils will have good additive packages, these help keep your engine clean, deal with fuel dilution, stop the build up of dangerous acids, prevent sludge, and should contain decent amounts of ZDDP (required for some older engines but removed from some newer oils). Compared to other running costs oil is cheap but has to stay in your engine for 12 months or so dealing with all that you will throw at it, my thinking is invest a little more in oil and it will be able to handle the next 6000 miles with ease before your next service, put in a cheap 10w40 and it may have become a 0w30 even by 3000 miles, at that grade it wont have the capacity to protect your engine properly. At sub 100,000 miles you car is relatively low mileage. If you are using the car in winter I would consider a good quality synthetic 5w40 with Acea A3/B4 rating (Millers or Fuchs are very good) and see how your oil consumption goes, if its higher than youd like then a 10w40 may be better. Edd
Good post Ed. ZDDP is getting very rare in oils nowadays as it damages cats (not the feline variety!) although there has been a bit of speculation to how much damage it does. There is a bit of chat about 9X6 and 9X7 engines and what oil to use in them. It seems there is a bit of belief in using thicker oils in them as the 0 rated oils are too thin in the 9X7 range which is leading to the overheating of 5 and 6 cylinder and the breaking down of the oil and scoring the bores. Alasdair
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