My list of service parts

[dunc]

I'm getting the belts and HG changed on my '87 turbo, I'm supplying the bits, here is what I think I need but is anything missing?

Cam belt,
Balance belts,
Headgasket,
Rocket cover gasket?
Spark plugs,
Air filter,
Coolant,
Water pump,
Waterpump gasket?
Oil,
Oil filter.

Can't think of anything else off the top of my head but I'm new to all this!

Thanks in advance

Dunc

 

[david924s]

Could also need belt rollers and maybe cam belt tensioner. When I had the belts and pump done on my S2 last year two of the belt rollers were well worn so needed replacing, tensioner was OK though. Also antifreeze and maybe distilled water depending on how OCD you are.

Also if the head is off you may want to check the valves and valve guides so could need machining or lapping in and good time to change the valve stem oil seals and any duff hydraulic cam followers.

Not sure about the Turbo specific stuff but I am sure someone will come on soon.

 

[edh]

Fuel Filter

Maybe also look at the LR steam vent mod to the head while it's off..
http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/STEAMVENT.html

 

[DC911SC]

Hi Dunc I have recently gone through all of this on my 91'

I would recommend personally on changing all the pulleys / tensioners as well (except the spring tensioner mechanism itself) as they are prone to failure especially with the added tension from new belts.

the 2 gaskets with qs marks will break on removal so they need replaced but cost less that £10 for both

worth doing the thermostat, I replaced both

also the other aux belts are so cheap they might as well be replaced.

I ordered most stuff from either

car parts 4 less.co.uk (if you split the order up delivery is free and you can get a bigger discount)

or car parts 911.co.uk which supplied genuine porsche parts

I used beru spark plugs, mahle air filter, gates belts, comma xstream g48 coolant mixed with battery de ion water, all the gaskets mentioned head, wpump & rc gasket are victor reinz.

oil - real can of worms - I used mobile super 2000 10w40 (not everyones choice re zddp levels) but mine hadn't run for a while and didn't want 5w40 etc peeing out every seal also it will get a change quite quickly.

If you are doing this it might be worth popping out the valves, regrinding the seats and changing the valve stem oil seals only a few hours work and easy to do.

 

[944 man]

Front oil seal, certainly.

There were some others too. Jon Mitchell listed everything that you should replace in this circumstance, but Im not sure where that post is now, or even if it was here or on TIPEC.

 

[robdimond]

+1 for thermostat, rollers and tensioner.

Complete front end reseal is a WYIT job, kit costs less than 50quid. Replace top hats and oil pump drive too if they are grooved (save the money if not).

Water pump bolts, 8 quid from OPC, not worth putting the old rusty ones back in.

 

[dunc]

Thanks for the great responses on this one lads, I've been offline so apologies for the slow response.

Really looking forward to having it spic and span - Cheers

Oh one question, the guy doing the work says he likes doing a precautionary head skim but think this means a thicker HG will be required - is there a choice of sizes?

Dunc.

 

[924nutter]

Well if you're going this far you may as well fit a new distributor cap, (you have to remove the old one to do the job), rotor arm and leads. By a genuine distributor cap and not a pattern made, Beware of imitations, or read trefs thread about "serious engine knock any ideas?" he changed the engine only to find that the rotor arm was knocking against the pattern cap.

 

[924nutter]

ORIGINAL: 924nutter

Well if you're going this far you may as well fit a new distributor cap, (you have to remove the old one to do the job), rotor arm and leads. By a genuine distributor cap and not a pattern made, Beware of imitations, or read trefs thread about "serious engine knock any ideas?" he changed the engine only to find that the rotor arm was knocking against the pattern cap.

.....and while the heads off and nice and accessible change the hippo seal, aka the rear cam cover gasket, these leak eventually and let oil drip over the block and down on to the exhaust. Beware 6mm threads in aluminium, and dont strip the threads

 

[924nutter]

ORIGINAL: dunc

Thanks for the great responses on this one lads, I've been offline so apologies for the slow response.

Really looking forward to having it spic and span - Cheers

Oh one question, the guy doing the work says he likes doing a precautionary head skim but think this means a thicker HG will be required - is there a choice of sizes?

Dunc.

Unless the head gasket went because of overheating or you believe that the gasket blew because the head is warped, if the head is taken off in the correct sequence it should not need machining and I do not subscribe to the school of whack it off machine it whack it on. Have it checked with a proper straight edge across the "diameters" of the combustion chambers, the greatest area of stress and remember there is a tolerance of something like 0.002"-0.003". the head only needs to be skimmed if this out of true is 0.004", roughly speaking. if you have it skimmed this time and it is unecessary, then if it ever needs to be skimmed you have limited your options for the future. If it has to be done be sure to blend off any sharp edges generated by the fly cutting process, or the engine may pink.

 

[944 man]

Im glad that John said this first. I would avoid a garage where they insisted on skimming every head without measuring it. Thats very poor practice being misrepresented as 'thorough and knowledgeable'.

 

[ChasR]

It can also depend on how badly the HG went (and how hot the engine got).

 

[dunc]

That's what my thoughts were about the skim, I'm no expert though. If it does or doesn't need a skim how will I know before ordering a gasket (if they have different sizes available)?

Cheers,

Dunc.

 

[TTM]

This is all you need to know :

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/7329713-post6.html

If A >= 23.9mm after skimming, use a 1.1mm headgasket.
If A is in the [23.6mm ; 23.9mm[ range after skimming, use a 1.4mm headgasket.
If A < 23.6mm after skimming, you can use the head as a garage ornament.

These values rely on the principle that the ignition timing profile in the ECU may normally not be adjusted (lowered) to compensate for the possible increase of compression ratio and on the possibility that valves may hit pistons if the head has been skimmed by too much.

 

[dunc]

Excellent, thank you very much

Dunc.