Menu toggle

MOT'd but couple issues, including not charging

diabloam

diabloam

New member
Finally got round to sticking my turbo in for an MOT after doing all new suspension, new discs and pads and the belts, tensioners and water pump. Delighted to say it went straight though so just had to go buy a tax disc

Drove about now for about 250 miles over weekend and have couple of issues to look into

The car seemed to be slightly hot after a lap and I made the mistake of opening the coolant cap, and of course it overflowed. I put cap on quickly but coolant kept coming out of a pipe at the side of the engine passenger side for ages. Is this the other end of the overrflow from above seal on cap and should I have worried about it. I let it cool opened bleed screw waited for coolant to come out then top up. And it seems ok. Did this all just happen cause I opened cap? Or could I not have bleed it right first time round.

There is just a slight impercepable whine from belts, I used the correct tension so am i assuming this will fade as belt settles after a few miles. I checked it visually after about 25 miles and it looked ok. Also is it really nessecery to check tension again after 1500 miles?

I have squell off the brakes at slow speeds, there is no anti squell backings on the pads, do I need to get them and where is best, or will this be fine without.

Also I have a slight wobble at about 60 odd that isnt always there, got the wheels rebalance but hasnt seemed to work, any suggestions given most of suspension is new, can the brakes be causing this at all?

Enjoying the car loads since back on the road, missed it as it been off road for best part of a year
 
Sounds like it was still coming out of the overflow, small black pipe in the neck of the filler, just keep an eye on temperature and carry some coolant with you, get plenty of anti freeze in there for alloy engines (the VAG stuuf is good) my belts have a faint whine and they have been like that for a couple of years now, anti squel shims required methinks. Vibration could be tyre flatspots from standing ?
 
Good points Frenchy, thanks man. Tonight when I got a chance I washed the car (always helps, lol) and then went out for a thrash on the country roads (basically all roads up here! lol. Put the stereo on so wouldnt hear anything and gave her a good exercise, the wobble has decreased significantly so maybe it was something to with the tyres, honestly hadnt considered that one as it does spend large period of time sitting in garage. The brakes are pulling straight but I did cowboy the job a little as missed the anti squell things and only partially cleaned up as best as i could under the plates as couldnt shift them, also ground the edge of the pads which is really slack but just wanted to get car on the road. When I corner really heavily sometimes the plate actually rubs a little against the new disc which aint great but am hoping once the pads and discs wear down a little it will clear and I can run car till I have to do a full caliper strip and rebuild. The whine is minimal so hoping belt will stretch a little anyway. Whats everybodies view on checking the tension after 1500 miles, anybody skipped this, I can check it by hand but just wont have the tension tool this time, so whats the opinion on this? Only one of my fan works I think, have only seen it on once and that was when it got hot the other night,lol, and the temp only rises when sitting in traffic (not that often up here!). So guess this could be the issue, the fans! Thanks all
 
I have had wheel wobble vibration when my Tuirb S stood on Pirrelli P Zero's but would go away when used i try not to leave them standing too long and will push the cars when parked in the garge back or forth a couple of inches. The fans kick in at different temps, cannot remember now but one will kick in, if temp is still rising the other one will come in, sounds like you need a brake caliper refurb, something i will be doing in winter
 
Well I now have a new issue and car is back on ramps in garage. I have always noticed that my voltmeter on the dash stays at 12 or so for a short while then clicks and goes to charging voltage of more like 14 volts, about 15 second after starting. I noticed last night it stayed at 12 or so for ages before it eventually then went up to 14. When I went to drive it today, lo and behold, it stayed around 12 all day and slowly sunk across the day as i ran around doing bits and bobs during the afternoon. Of course, you know what is coming, it only just started when I came out of the petrol station and I was lucky I was finished and going home. Once home,tried spinning it over and nothing, just a hum and the occasional click. Bump started it and stuck it in the garage and put multimeter across the battery, 11.7v. Not charging I assume. My question is, is there a relay or something that usually operates shortly after starting, that is now not switching or something, or am I going to have to bite the bullit and start removing the alternator today, anybody seen something like this before?
 
Yep, I've seen that kind of behaviour from my alternator - just before it died totally! The good news is it was fixed for the cost of a new set of brushes rather than an entire new alternator. Hope yours is the same. Regards, Tref.
 
ok, started today taking alternator off, got distracted so didnt get too far but back to it tomorrow. When got car on ramp the air cooling hose to the alternator was not connected although shroud is there fine, but the hose looks like its been disconnected for for ages, which might explain why alternator has packed in!. I read on clarke-garage that you have to drain the cooling system and remove the pipe from the expansion tank on the Turbo's but then seen on pelican parts that you can get alternator out without disturbing the coolant. Given I reckon I had hassles bleeding it before, I am loathe to drain and refill it again, especially as didnt have a clean tub to drain it into and there is about £30 anitfreeze in it, can it be done without draining coolant. I went to take the inlet hose (ribbed moulded rubber hose) to the turbo off but it is proving difficult to get off, tried getting all the hoses that connect to it off and they are being stubborn also. Any tips before I get fired into it again the morrow? I know a good alternator repair place locally, just need to get it out, awkward as always this job, dont seem to get any non awkward/annoying jobs. Car lasted a day and a half back on the road before it spat the dummy, think it likes the quiet life in the garage, lol!
 
alternator actually came out fairly easily so not as bad as I thought it was going to be. Put it into local guy who repairs them but it wont be ready till monday morning so car scored itself another lazy weekend in the garage. Annoying as it only managed 3 days on the road and prob back to work soon so might not get much time to enjoy it, lol, typical, will post back how I got on, thanks all
 
Bit of a faff getting alternator but got it in, started it and bingo, 14v on guage, car purring so a happy ending, thanks everybody for the advice and pointers. For anybody doing this themselves, you do not have to drain the coolant to move the hose from expansion tank, if you disconnect the wiring and then undo the shroud and leave it in place the alternator comes out, its awkward but doable. Anyway thanks all
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members

Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions

Disclaimer

The opinions expressed on this site are not necessarily those of the Club, who shall have no liability in respect of them or the accuracy of the content. The Club assumes no responsibility for any effects arising from errors or omissions.

Porsche Club Great Britain gives no warranties, guarantees or assurances and makes no representations or recommendations regarding any goods or services advertised on this site. It is the responsibility of visitors to satisfy themselves that goods and/or services supplied by any advertiser are bona fide and in no instance can the Porsche Club Great Britain be held responsible.

When responding to advertisements please ensure that you satisfy yourself of any applicable call charges on numbers not prefixed by usual "landline" STD Codes. Information can be obtained from the operator or the white pages. Before giving out ANY information regarding cars, or any other items for sale, please satisfy yourself that any potential purchaser is bona fide.

Directors of the Board of Porsche Club GB, Club Office Staff, Register Secretaries and Regional Organisers are often requested by Club members to provide information on matters connected with their cars and other matters referred to in the Club Rules. Such information, advice and assistance provided by such persons is given in good faith and is based on the personal experience and knowledge of the individual concerned.

Neither Porsche Club GB, nor any of the aforementioned, shall be under any liability in respect of any such information, advice or assistance given to members. Members are advised to consult qualified specialists for information, advice and assistance on matters connected with their cars at all times.

Porsche
Lockton
Pirelli
Officially approved
Oracle Finance
WEX Esso
Collecting Cars
Back
Top