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lumpy idle and Southern Electric Jedi needed :)

BluePearl944

BluePearl944

New member
heh everyone,

a little advice please.. :)

My 944 had started to hunt around on idle dropping to 200-300 rpm then climbing to 1100... and back and forth... no problem when driving over 2000rpm or booting it though the rpm.. it still goes like a rocket... It has been chipped but has been great power-wise and this problem comes and goes...

any thoughts?

Secondly, having had the S2 engine put into my square dash it now has two fuse boxes and a bewildering array of wires..(previously I had a 1971 VW Fastback which only had two wires... on and off!)

the original fuse box I expect is for all the 'non engine' electricals and the second is for the S2 engine...

Now I'm going to have a look first to see if I can see any obvious loose connections etc. but does anyone know an auto-electrician near Portsmouth who knows his way around a 944 or near enough I can get/drive/send the car to him/her?


since the engine swap the headlight pop-up motor stopped working the following day... that was the only problem and I was so happy to finally get the car back i've just been manually winding them up ever since rather than give it back to the same garage :)

As of today...the oil pressure gauge ticks back and forth on indicating, the brake system 'red light' comes on and off, and the petrol gauge keeps changing it's mind.... and i've got the lumpy-hunting-idling issue...

So, any thoughts on the idle issue and a Jedi-auto-electrician?

Apologies for the length of the monologue!!

'Help me Obi-Porsche you're my only hope!'

:0

Jason



 
Check the carbon tracks in the air mass meter, and also how well the barn door pivots. It is not unknown for the barn door to wear around pivots and if it sticks it can give rise to the symptoms, but with all the other flickering gauges and the brake warning light, I might try to find a bad earth. The earthing points for a lot of electrical circuits is a circular set of male spades up/under/above the main fuse box. Also check that the engine earth braid had been reconnected to the body, possibly on one of the coil bolts.
 

ORIGINAL: 924nutter

Check the carbon tracks ......Also check that the engine earth braid had been reconnected to the body, possibly on one of the coil bolts.
Click to expand...

ok, that's a good start! thanks for replying, much appreciated... I'll give what you've suggested the once over and see what I can find..


great stuff!

:)

Jase
 
Could be a gummed up idle stability valve, spray carb cleaner through it.

Or the throttle position switch is not set right. Then when the throttle closes the switch does not sense this and bring the ISV into play. TPS should "click" when the throttle closes, or you can test if with a multimeter.
 
Looking at the bigger picture of fluttering gauges I think there are either two problems, i.e. faulty Idle Stabilisation Valve, and a loose connection/bad earth somewhere or one problem causing all the symptoms. Occam's razor-the most likely solution is usually the root cause; the gentleman could use some lean manufacturing techniques and ask the five whys. If you take a problem and break it down aking why something has not happened or has happened and finding the reason, after going through the process five times you should arrive at the root cause. If we apply 5 y's to the fluctuating oil pressure gauge and fuel gauge, the ISV is not linked to either of these instruments although in isolation ISV is a good call for the poor engine performance at or just above idling rpm.
 
thanks John and Paul... I think i'll check the electrics first and sort those out then see if the idle issues are still there... appreciate the suggestions... now all i have to do is look up what you're on about!!

thanks for taking the trouble to reply.. it really helps getting me off in the right direction!

:)

Jase
 
Hi Jase

I'd be looking at the earthing point under the dash / over the steering column as first point of call for the electrics.

I doubt if the idle problem is electrical, I'd plump for fuel pressure regulator.

good luck and let us know how you get on, all good for future problems!
 
take off the ICV -NOT as BAD A JOB AS SOME SAY - fill with wd40 or carb cleaner and leave over night - test it s working before you put back. cheaper first step fix than a FPR which are approx £100.
Is it all the time or just when hot ?

Nick
 
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