Help identifying drive train issue...

simdel1 · Aug 10, 2013

Hi Guys,

My car has developed a bit of a 'shunt' when changing gear or coming on and off the throttle. From what I've read before it sounds like I need a new clutch because the rubber coupling has degraded. Before I commit to such a long and expensive job I thought I'd try to eliminate anything else that could be causing the same problem. The problem is that I don't quite understand what I'm seeing. Hopefully someone on here might be able to help me out...

I've jacked one side of the car up with the car in 1st and the handbrake off (so one rear wheel is on the floor unable to rotate). I can rotate the rear wheel about 5-10° with a clunk each way but it's hard to tell where the clunk is coming from. I removed the transaxle inspection cover and tried to rotate the prop shaft. There is quite a bit of movement which suggests to me that the clutch has definitely gone. The thing I don't understand is that with the car in gear, I don't think I should be able to turn that shaft without turning the wheels. Does that mean that my diff is excessively worn too? I tried rotating the rear wheel whilst holding the prop shaft and noticed that I can rotate the back wheel at least half as much as the total slack I mentioned before I can feel the prop shaft trying to turn in my hand.

At the moment I think I definitely need to do the clutch, but I'm also thinking that maybe my CV joints and/or the diff itself are worn out too.

Does anyone have any alternative explanations for what I'm seeing?

chrismanchr · Aug 10, 2013

Ive just had a new clutch ! picked my car up thursday night

mine was loose in the drivetrain with a chuffing type sensation at low revs high gear, lots of vibration ,the engine sounded rough especailly when
cold I actually thought about getting rid because I thought the engine was knackered and whats the point in buying a new clutch
I had a terrible idle issue ,it was nearly undrivable ,

when the mechanic took out the old clutch ,one complete half of the rubber donut was missing ,which explained the vibration and loseness
the knocking and idle issue was also resolved by the clutch as rubber caught up was everywhere and the flywheel sensor was covered in it ,
plus the massive imbalance in the clutch

she drives like a beauty now very smooth and quiet but before I thought it was only fit for the scrapper ,but a new clutch didnt come cheap

chrismanchr · Aug 10, 2013

ps you can take off the coupling between the gearbox and the torque tube and see weither the slack is in the front or the back

simdel1 · Aug 12, 2013

Thanks Chris, I'll give that a go. I suspect I might just have to start stripping it from the back and replacing anything that looks a bit worn.

ChasR · Aug 12, 2013

It does sound like your clutch. A giveway to it being this will be if the car shudders quite badly in traffic when letting up the clutch once the car has fully warmed up.

Before that, do as above, and also check the state of your driveshafts (but in this case, it would also cause a vibration when going above 40-50mph as well).

Eldavo · Aug 12, 2013

I'm afraid that the symptoms you are experiencing are exactly the same as those I had when my clutch needed replacing.

simdel1 · Aug 14, 2013

Cheers guys. I'll start looking to see if I can get a clutch kit that doesn't feel like daylight robbery...

ChasR · Aug 15, 2013

If it makes you feel any better, the £120 clutch kit I put into my Mondeo V6 (an LUK item) lasted all of 300 yards before the centre plate self destructed.

It would take a genuine Ford kit to have a clutch that felt right in addiiton to not blowing itself to pieces (It was also over double the money and that is on a mass produced car

).

That's before I evne get to the Passat (£500+ for a secondhand gearbox anyone? I wish I was kidding about that price (For anyone wondering, that's for a 5 speed 'box in a 2006 B6 generation to add insult to injury)