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Gear linkage hassles

M

Monkeythree

New member
With both the rear axle and the gearbox cross member off my car at present it seemed sensible to check the gear linkage above the gearbox for slop. As expected, there is a load of play so I started to remove it in anticipation of ordering a replacement from Only944.

The snag i hit was that the bolt which connects the front to rear shift rod to the linkage snapped leaving me little option but to drill it out. So my question is, are both the female part ( the end of the shift rod) and the male part (the end of the linkage) tapped? I don't want to take the shift rod out unless really necessary so first prize for me would be if the female is just a hole and only the male part is tapped. If both are tapped, I'm going to have to remove the shift rod so that I can tap a new thread.

Thanks in advance.
 
Shift rod is just a hole into which the pointy bolt locks into. So you're in luck in that just the outer bit is threaded. If you buy the proper replacement bolt it has a taper on it to fit in the hole.

(Assuming we're talking about the same thing of course.)

See here for pics:

http://only944.com/instructions/shortshifterinstall/
 
Thanks both. Looks like unless i have been very lucky with the centring of my 6.5mm drill bit, I'm going to have to remove the shift rod and re-tap the thread. Oh well, something else for shot blasting and powder coating!
 
I got away with it. With the help of a blowtorch and a bit of wrestling with two pairs of mole grips, I managed to separate the two pieces and the remants of the drilled out bolt fell out in the process. Even though my drilling was slightly off centre, the thread is still good enough to wind a new bolt in securely so that was lucky. I have fashioned a new pointy bolt from a standard M8 x20 so just need my new linkage to turn up from the states now.

Thanks again for the help with that one.
 
When you put that new bolt in, make sure both that the angle of the pointy bit at the end is the same as the angle in the middle of the dimple, and that the bolt is long enough to allow the point to reach the bottom of the dimple before the shoulder catches on the outer edge of the threaded hole. I mangled one of these bolts and turned up a new one, as you describe, and made very sure that the angle on the end was correct. However the bolt was a smidge too short, so it never reached the bottom of the dimple, meaning that the two parts weren't held tightly together and hence there was a fair bit of slop in the linkage. Several years later I did some investigation into the slop and found the cause, which was very readily solved with a new bolt from an OPC!


Oli.
 
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