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FAO Fen

Thanks for the replies guys, don't plan on keep the seatbelts in Dave so don't think I'll need the Brey Krause stuff. Peter, did you just weld the attachment to the tunnel or did you strengthen it first? I assume the eye that screws in does not protrude through the tunnell at all? i.e. the bottom of the screw is flush with the bottom of the the bracket?
 
Fen, just looking back at the second photo you posted, it looks like the front of your side mount would not fit flush to the side of the seat. Is this the case? Did you use some kind of spacer?
 
Sorry, I've just seen this.

You're right that there was some jiggery-pokery in getting the spacing right initially. My universal runners came from DT so chances are you aill soon have the same as me. The universal kit consists of 2 L- shaped sections which I bolted securely to the floor (had to drill a couple of holes to suit the spacing front - rear). There are then 4 risers which bolt to the seat and to the side of the L section. The fronts I believe do not sit quite vertically in my installation as the seat is wider at the front than the back. It isn't far off vertical from memory as when you tighten everything up it pulls straight.

I think perhaps one of the rear risers was mounted inside an L section to allow for the narrower rear, though I may be wrong.

In terms of harness mounts I drilled the tunnel and used a reinforcing plate with nut welded on it and bolted the original seatbelt clip to the tuunnel using that and an eyelet which the harness clips onto. I used the same eyelet bolts at the bottom of the B pillars and also where the shoulder straps reach the rear seatbelt mountings, though the last I would not use without a harness bar to modify the angle.
 
Hi Ben, the plate is just welded in place, the ideal of course is to fit it from the other side but that would require the torque tube to come out to do the job properly. I will add a large 'washer' and nut to the other side when I have access as the weak point is the existing nut (the mounting piece is literaly just a plate with a nut welded onto it, so nothing sticks out onto the other side).
 
I went the other way; mine is on the other side of the tunnel but held in place with Sikaflex prior to the eye bolt going into it.
 
So Peter, I'm assuming there is enough thread on the bolt to secure the pin in? I wonder if I could drill a hole into the tunnel and weld the plate over it so as to allow the pin to use all the thread in the bolt by passing into the hole in the tunnel?
 
ORIGINAL: bennyboy

So Peter, I'm assuming there is enough thread on the bolt to secure the pin in? I wonder if I could drill a hole into the tunnel and weld the plate over it so as to allow the pin to use all the thread in the bolt by passing into the hole in the tunnel?
Click to expand...

You can get the eyelets in different lengths, so the thread shouldn't be a problem.

A good idea would be to mount the plate the other way around from mine, so that the nut protrudes into the inside of the transmission tunnel through a hole (assuming sufficient clearance), but with the plate still welded to the outside. This is the easiest way to do a good, strong job I can think of, as the nut would have to be pulled through the plate to become detached rather than pulled off it (I hope this is making sense).
 
Hi Paul, yes I should have added that, just used it to show that they were the parts I bought (probably also available from DT and others).
 
It does look like a proper one, though I'd paint the wheel centres blue as well. I agonised over that detail when I had the 964's wheels painted and I think I made the right decision.
 
You are right, it doesn't really work. Black or anthracite wheel centres look great on white, grey and silver cars and a bit odd IMHO on other colours.

That deep blue is lovely though.

I hope he pops up on here and/or over on 968uk
 
I was assuming the middle of the rims was body coloured (though my work monitor is notoriously bad for colour rendition). On that basis what I meant was the actual centre cap which is currently silver should be blue. I don't think the silver spot in the middle of the wheel adds anything in other words.
 
A point which the image slightly further down that thread (of your ex-964) demonstrates very well Fen. Much nicer.

And my screen/eyes see the S3 wheels as black as opposed to body-coloured (?) [&:] I think.
 
Yep, looking at it on my PC at home I agree. Neil is correct then; the entire wheel centre needs to be painted blue.
 
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