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Engine change on an S2 - any advice?

T

tref

PCGB Member
Member
About to start pulling the engine out of my S2 today... now whilst I have changed many an 8v engine in early dash cars, this will be my first 16v from a turbo style body... so the first question is should I drop the front valance off or not? The car will be jacked up at the front, so I am thinking about clearance to pull the engine out from underneath once it is on the ground...
 
I have only done turbo engines (and no, that was not because they had broken down [:D]) but I would suggest removing the front bumper and all undertrays.
It should be doable without removing the bumper but it should also be more comfortable not having it in the way, especially when the car is not raised up by much.
 
Many thanks... Most useful thing I did was driving the car onto block pavours on all four corners before I started - just a couple of inches higher off the deck makes the world of difference! Mostly disconnected now, but for the engine loom... Do I take it there is a nice single "engine loom" connector somewhere as there was on the early cars (but on the other side)?
 
Many thanks... Most useful thing I did was driving the car onto block pavours on all four corners before I started - just a couple of inches higher off the deck makes the world of difference! Mostly disconnected now, but for the engine loom... Do I take it there is a nice single "engine loom" connector somewhere as there was on the early cars (but on the other side)?
 
If you unplug the DME you should be able to pull the plug through the firewall hole and remove the engine with the harness.
 
I removed the bumper and the radiator and all the undertrays. Then drop the engine still on the cross member and slide the whole lot out the front. Are you going to change the engine or investigate and repair yours.
 
Hopefully both! I have removed the engine from the mounts on the crossmember, just about to undo the four bolts and drop the crossmember and mounts out of the way. I did it your way once before, and I can't remember now why I found it more awkward... I think probably it wasn't so easy to "walk" the engine out from under the car, or it could have been I found it more awkward to get everything to line up when putting it back in... I think that is one "whatever works best for you". I know most people drop the crossmember and steering rack together, I prefer to separate them - four really easy bolts to undo, and everything is so much lighter and easier to line up again.
 
I put the engine back in from the top with the crossmember etc all in.Totally the wrong way to do it.It took 3 of us to get it in that way but took only 10 mins.
The moral of the story is------- Do it the way it works best for you.And don't let all the armchair experts tell you your doing it wrong.
 
Engine out, on the deck, and all in time to still get to the meeting at the Ace Café last night (nice turn-out of 944s:))!

Two things... one, neither my notes from 8v engines, nor Clarks garage usually comprehensive instructions mention removing the oil cooler, or it's connections. Doh!

Secondly, my oil cooler was (still is) absolutely filthy... no way could it be working as it should, barely any visible passage through it... So it might be one to add to your maintenance schedule (you know like the cam-chain tensioner that anyone with any sense has a look at, but isn't officially recognised as something which needs doing).
 
Jet Wash for the cooler. Also easier to have cooler hanging off the engine when you put it back in as the nuts that hold it on at the engine end are a pain to get at.
 
Thanks - I left it connected to the engine and dropped the cooler too on the way out; I may have been tempted to put the new engine in without it connected first - useful heads up to know that it is a pain to get at in situ!
 
There is a lot of stuff on the front corner of the engine.I did the oil lines when the head of off and it is still difficult to get a big spanner in there. So I think it would be really hard with the head in place.
 
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