Bleed Nipples for S2
- Thread starter J4CKO
- Start date
bakerloid
New member
I bought a load of them for mine from Bigg Red, who are based in Worcester. Good company, helpful chaps and you get parts that are proper brembo, but not at Porsche prices!
Linkie: http://biggred.co.uk/bleedscrews.php?pid=Bleed%20Screws
You need to measure the thread with a thread gauge ideally, but they will be standard, and they might even be able to tell you which ones you need. I'll try to dig out my receipts though and let you know what ones I bought.
Getting them out - be brave. Get a proper bleed nipple spanner, and if they're really stuck on, do what I did whilst praying - hammer a smaller socket piece on top and turn with one quick motion. Praying all the time!!! Have I already mentioned that?
Heat applied too will help, but that will obviously affect the paint on the caliper and possibly seals too.
Good luck!
Start bleeding from the furthest away corner, which I think is the passenger side rear on the S2.
James
Linkie: http://biggred.co.uk/bleedscrews.php?pid=Bleed%20Screws
You need to measure the thread with a thread gauge ideally, but they will be standard, and they might even be able to tell you which ones you need. I'll try to dig out my receipts though and let you know what ones I bought.
Getting them out - be brave. Get a proper bleed nipple spanner, and if they're really stuck on, do what I did whilst praying - hammer a smaller socket piece on top and turn with one quick motion. Praying all the time!!! Have I already mentioned that?
Heat applied too will help, but that will obviously affect the paint on the caliper and possibly seals too.
Good luck!
Start bleeding from the furthest away corner, which I think is the passenger side rear on the S2.
James
chrisg
Member
The bleed nipples for the s2 and turbo callipers are common and you can get them from OPC's who buy them directly from brembo !
I would echo the sentiment of lots of heat, particularly if you can use a fine blow torch to concentrate the heat just around the base of where the nipples go into the caliber. The issue is often that the large aluminium caliper acts as a heat sink to draw the heat away.
You're right to use a proper brake spanner or alternately a hex sided socket to prevent rounding the heads. With regard to bleeding sequence it's usually reckoned you start at the one furthest away from the master cylinder = near side rear outer, then inner then other rears.
With regard to bleeding you can use a gun sons easizbleed system from halfrauds - it has the correct size lid in the kit.
Yours
Chris
I would echo the sentiment of lots of heat, particularly if you can use a fine blow torch to concentrate the heat just around the base of where the nipples go into the caliber. The issue is often that the large aluminium caliper acts as a heat sink to draw the heat away.
You're right to use a proper brake spanner or alternately a hex sided socket to prevent rounding the heads. With regard to bleeding sequence it's usually reckoned you start at the one furthest away from the master cylinder = near side rear outer, then inner then other rears.
With regard to bleeding you can use a gun sons easizbleed system from halfrauds - it has the correct size lid in the kit.
Yours
Chris
The bleed nipples are the standard Ford size. Should cost pennies - I think I paid £4 for a bag of ten from eBay. The brake pipe nuts are equally standard and cheap.
You can change the nipples with a regular spanner, although if they are seized then I'd use a six-sided one (not a 12).
If you really want to keep the fluid in the system then clamp the flexi hoses with a brake hose clamp, but I'd just let it drain out and replace it all.
Oli.
You can change the nipples with a regular spanner, although if they are seized then I'd use a six-sided one (not a 12).
If you really want to keep the fluid in the system then clamp the flexi hoses with a brake hose clamp, but I'd just let it drain out and replace it all.
Oli.
I'm just about to change all my flexible hoses so I will be bleeding the system. I'm interested to know what a bleed nipple spanner is ,as I have always used a normal ring spanner ( I must admit they don't always locate that well and can round off the edges if not careful) so if there are special tools for this I would like to know. Thanks
ChasR
New member
IMO if the nipples have not been moved in a while I would use a good deep six sided socket to crack them open. Failing that, a brake pipe spanner works wonders in comparison to a normal spanner. However, whether they will fit onto the nipple due to the spanners themselves having thicker walls is another matter.
Mark,
Yes, and I think that's the chap I bought them off too. Pretty confident it is. You'll find that the profile of the bleed nipple head is slightly different (but this is trivial.)
What's all the fuss about a brake pipe spanner? My understanding is that they are a ring spanner with a slot cut in them, allowing them to be used on brake pipe nuts. However for a brake caliper nipple this is unnecessary and a regular six-sided spanner is your best weapon.
Oli.
Yes, and I think that's the chap I bought them off too. Pretty confident it is. You'll find that the profile of the bleed nipple head is slightly different (but this is trivial.)
What's all the fuss about a brake pipe spanner? My understanding is that they are a ring spanner with a slot cut in them, allowing them to be used on brake pipe nuts. However for a brake caliper nipple this is unnecessary and a regular six-sided spanner is your best weapon.
Oli.
I fitted a set of bleed nipples today that were supplied by the Ebay source mentioned and they were a perfect fit. I must say getting some of the old ones out was a bit traumatic involving a small blow torch, plusgas,and choice language. However they were not as difficult as removing the rear flexible hoses as the hard pipe unions had corroded into the alloy body of the flexible hoses.
Cheers for the tips, I got the Ebay ones and they fitted perfectly, seven quid for 10 versus 15 quid for 2 Brembo ones, were easy enough to fit but getting them off with the caliper on the car is unlikely, got the calipers off and stuck them in the vice, grabbed the nipple with the jaws (oo er) and twisted and off they came.
ChasR
New member
They have 6 sides on them in comparison to many sides that a regular spanner has, thus reducing the chances of one slipping over a conventional spanner. You are quite right in saying that the 6th side has a slot cut into it enabling one to undo hard brake pipe unions.. I can't say I have come across 6 sided spanners before though.
My friend thought the same on his Triumph Dolomite until I lent him mine (he was quite close to buying a set of hard brake lines because he rounded off his bleed nipples and brake unions with a 'normal' spanner). It certainly saved his task becoming way more arduous than needby not to mention a lot cheaper.
I shall admit that I thought the same until a couple of years ago when I started rounding off the ends on my modern and not just old cars (I put it down until then down to the car being 'old' and generally being a little rustier
). Since then I have not really found unions and bleed nipples to be the trouble they once were (bar ones which have corroded beyond recognition, but something like a smaller socket being hammered on or an Irwin vice grip has previously got me out of trouble.
For six sided spanners Metrinch are excellent they grip the walls not the corners so fit metric and imperial, no good for getting past brake lines though! linky here no connection to them just very happy with the performance over 20+ years
(edited to add they do have a small amount of 'slack' so not perfect in all conditions but on old rounded nuts - superb!)
(edited to add they do have a small amount of 'slack' so not perfect in all conditions but on old rounded nuts - superb!)
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