Anyone Local to Camberley?

[944 man]

I dont believe that you can rule out the immobiliser until it has been removed and all connections traced and made good.

 

[JamesO]

ORIGINAL: 944 man

I dont believe that you can rule out the immobiliser until it has been removed and all connections traced and made good.

This ^.

I'm fairly local but injured at the moment also it's too bloody cold to be tinkering with cars, unless you have a nice warm garage.

 

[DarrylH]

Ok cheers guys. I'll give the immobiliser a trace back then. Cheers for all your help so far

 

[vitesse]

I'd say the crank reference sender(s)-mine gave correct figures ,but still gave uncertain starting-many times had to wiggle the 2 Bosch connectors rear of camcover-would then start say for 2/3 days then same symptoms again.The figures are not proof-it's more about whether a signal is produced to satisfy the DME-I replaced both on mine -from GSF for £60 & never blinked since.
I think usually the short run of cable from sensor to Bosch plug can deteriorate because of the heat -it gets harder & stiffer even though you get the right figures when testing or equally the air gap/sensor face is wrong/damaged etc.

I had to saw through the diecast fixing bracket to get them out as they wouldn't pull out of the bracket mainly because the aluminium casing at the base of one sensor had swollen-this means you can't shift the bracket rearwards off the dowel in the bellhousing to get the get the whole lot out to then remove the stuck in sensors.
.

 

[DarrylH]

ORIGINAL: VITESSE

I'd say the crank reference sender(s)-mine gave correct figures ,but still gave uncertain starting-many times had to wiggle the 2 Bosch connectors rear of camcover-would then start say for 2/3 days then same symptoms again.The figures are not proof-it's more about whether a signal is produced to satisfy the DME-I replaced both on mine -from GSF for £60 & never blinked since.
I think usually the short run of cable from sensor to Bosch plug can deteriorate because of the heat -it gets harder & stiffer even though you get the right figures when testing or equally the air gap/sensor face is wrong/damaged etc.

I had to saw through the diecast fixing bracket to get them out as they wouldn't pull out of the bracket mainly because the aluminium casing at the base of one sensor had swollen-this means you can't shift the bracket rearwards off the dowel in the bellhousing to get the get the whole lot out to then remove the stuck in sensors.
.

Thanks for that, wiggling the plugs and pulling them apart and re connecting hasn't helped.

I have seen some of what you have said said before so I will probably have to re look at that!

Regarding Crank sensors. Which one is "The" crank sensor? I thought it would be the reference sensor but looking online has made me think that the speed sensor could be the one that I need to address...

I only say that as I bought a "crank sensor" but they both look very similar so not sure which one I should be replacing... the one closest to the fire wall or further away... Sorry if that seems a bit dumb? I'm used to one crank sensor lol