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another pair of tail lights resealed

robdimond

PCGB Member
Member
Did my tail lights this weekend. The original seal had failed completely on both sides, causing water to leak into the boot, trickle into the two wells either side and corrode the rear quarters.

Getting the lights out was straightforward, there is a thumbscrew to take the piece with the bulbs out and then six 8mm nuts to hold the lights in. The lights then have to be yanked off, gently prying from the inside with a plastic scraper and cutting through the seal. Takes a fair bit of persuasion to get them out! The original seal had dried up in places (hence the leak) but for the most part was still tacky and sticks like crazy.

MidSussex-20120414-00068.jpg


Then cleaned up the remains of the seal (and 23 years of dirt, old polish etc.).
MidSussex-20120414-00073.jpg


This is the sealant I used, it's a black butyl panel seal that comes in a reel with paper backing. I'm pretty sure it's the same as the original stuff... it stays permanently tacky so sticks to surfaces but doesn't glue things permanently. Also pictured above the light is a cheap plastic tool from B&Q designed for removing bathroom sealant. Was ideal for scraping off the remnants of seal.

MidSussex-20120414-00074.jpg


Here is the light ready to go in. The butyl seal is actually quite nice to work with, much nicer than silicone... it sticks to anything (fingers included) but can be peeled off cleanly. The picture shows one thickness applied all the way around, I actually had to use a double thickness at the top edge to get a good seal.

MidSussex-20120414-00075.jpg


We all know what a 944 tail light should look like, so my next pic is the offside driveshaft I also removed because the CV boots are completely shot! Expect a thread with pictures of inside the joints shortly... I was pleasantly surprised how much grease was still inside, but there is some play in the joint, about a degree I would say, more on one side than the other.

MidSussex-20120414-00067.jpg

 
And where did you get the butyl tape?

Here's the link for the tape:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220974467769?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1165wt_1185
 
Is there enough left on your roll to do another car? cheeky question but if so do you fancy swapping if for a roll of armaflex tape.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Armaflex-Self-Adhesive-Tape-/320885972274?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4ab64b5d32

I use this for curing niggling rattles and I have even used it to re build seat bolsters, its new and unused[;)]
 
Thanks Rob, that's useful as I need to do the tail light seals on my car too.

What did you use to remove the old seal from the paintwork without buggering the paintwork? Just gentle scraping, or some sort of solvent?
 
Brilliant write up, think I need to do this but first I need to seal the slam to rear panel on my cab which can flow about 1 pint of rainwater per second, waiting for the silicone to turn up, some Ebay sellers get stuff to you in a day or two and others are more relaxed about it !
 
Me personally i dont like that tape ,it's too messy . I dont know here but back in Italy mine melted in the summer from the heat.
I prefer home window seal for this job,that's what i used,seals great ,doesn't melt and i can take the light off whenever i need .
92008623.jpg
 
Scott: Sorry... I need the rest to reseal my heater fan to the scuttle when that comes out to do the heater matrix. One thing I would say is you might find a much cheaper source. I was speaking to a builder friend who said they use the same stuff to seal between roofing sheets.

I got most of the sealer off just dabbing it with itself (you can see a big black ball through the tail light hole, that's a glob of the old sealer). It's like blu-tac in that it sticks better to itself than anything else. The more stubborn stuff I used the plastic scraper and car shampoo + plastic pan scourer. This does put little scratches in the paint, but I was only doing it on the sealing surfaces hidden by the light. The few places I went over, a bit of t-cut is enough to polish out the little scratches. If I was doing it again I'd try some solvents on it (acetone etc.) rather than brute force.

I like Catamax's solution, looks neater than the butyl, but I've not seen that type of window sealer before, looks like just a self adhesive rubber strip? The beauty of that is you can take the lights off again easily for cleaning.
 
Nor me. Catamax, can I ask where you got your seal from? I couldn't find any of that brand on ebay or any of the usual suspect's web sites...
 
I got mine in Italy but you can find it anywhere .And after a quick search on ebay voilà http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-PK-P-PROFILE-STORMGUARD-P-RUBBER-DRAUGHT-WINDOW-DOOR-SEAL-/280861384276?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4164a49e54
 
Strangely enough I have just resealed my back lights too!

I used this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neoprene-Rubber-self-adhesive-strip-10mm-x-10mm-x-5m-/260614801639?pt=UK_DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ&hash=item3cadda48e7

I removed all the butyl stuff as you described above, cleaned up the rear cluster with so isopropyl, and stuck it round. Its nice and chunky so compresses well when you bolt the cluster back on. Hopefully this means it will give a nice tight seal.

We've had a few downpours ths week and it hasnt leaked a drop so far.

The link above is for 5 meters so you could probably do two cars with it.
Best part is it only costs £3.24!
 

ORIGINAL: robdimond

Scott: Sorry... I need the rest to reseal my heater fan to the scuttle when that comes out to do the heater matrix. One thing I would say is you might find a much cheaper source. I was speaking to a builder friend who said they use the same stuff to seal between roofing sheets.

I got most of the sealer off just dabbing it with itself (you can see a big black ball through the tail light hole, that's a glob of the old sealer). It's like blu-tac in that it sticks better to itself than anything else. The more stubborn stuff I used the plastic scraper and car shampoo + plastic pan scourer. This does put little scratches in the paint, but I was only doing it on the sealing surfaces hidden by the light. The few places I went over, a bit of t-cut is enough to polish out the little scratches. If I was doing it again I'd try some solvents on it (acetone etc.) rather than brute force.

I like Catamax's solution, looks neater than the butyl, but I've not seen that type of window sealer before, looks like just a self adhesive rubber strip? The beauty of that is you can take the lights off again easily for cleaning.


No worries [;)]
 
OK. I've just done exactly the same job to my S2. The only things I would add are that getting the lights off is quite difficult as the butyl seal sets solid in the cold, and warming it up with a hairdrier helps a lot. Go easy with levering it out as you risk damaging the rear panel if you are too enthusiastic. I used the same butyl seal as Rob Diamond when I reassembled, and did the nuts up fairly tight. Catamax - I am familiar with the stuff you are using (Screwfix sell it, or they used to) but are you sure it's watertight enough to keep the water out?

As it happens, I was given a large quantity of the proper butyl seal by Nick Appleton, who used to be a regular poster on here. It's the proper stuff (came in a Porsche box and everything!) and I have a lot left over. I am quite happy to cut it into lengths long enough for a pair of rear lights and post these on to anyone who wants some. I'll ask £2 to cover the postage and envelope; PM me if you want some.


Oli.
 

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