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997.2 engine temp query

997Newbie

PCGB Member
I'm a Porsche newbie - got a 997.2 earlier this year - and new to the forum.

Engine temp is slow to move off the 40 mark, and even after 20 miles driving, the engine temp only settles at 60. If it's then stationary idling for a few minutes it moves up to 80 but drops again when moving.

Local independent specialist says there are no fault codes, and it looks to be a standard (ie not low temp) thermostat.

Is slow warm up, and 60 running temp normal, or should I look at further investigation - particularly as cold weather now settling in?

Any advice appreciated

Thanks

 
997Newbie said:
I'm a Porsche newbie - got a 997.2 earlier this year - and new to the forum.
Engine temp is slow to move off the 40 mark, and even after 20 miles driving, the engine temp only settles at 60. If it's then stationary idling for a few minutes it moves up to 80 but drops again when moving.
Local independent specialist says there are no fault codes, and it looks to be a standard (ie not low temp) thermostat.
Is slow warm up, and 60 running temp normal, or should I look at further investigation - particularly as cold weather now settling in?
Any advice appreciated
Thanks

Not sure this helps......
I have a 997.2 as well, 2CS. I understand with this generation, as with the 987.2, the dashboard water temp gauge is software driven, e.g. my temp is never above or below 80c irrespective of how it is driven/oil temp gauge. As it is software driven it doesn't respond to the actual temperature, but what Porsche have decided so people don't keep taking their cars in whenever its not what they think is perfect. A personal example..... due to the headertank cap leaking (very slowly) the water level just dropped below a specific level in the header tank, driving down from being parked all day at the top of a long steep hill, so the dashboard all lights up in red with dire warnings and the temp gauge goes all the way to max - a bit of a shock given the engine hadn't been running long enough even begin to get warmed up. There was not an actual problem with the water level that would cause this problem, and a top up and new cap and its fine since. The guru's out there may correct my understanding.


 
You’re absolutely right about the temperature gauge not displaying the actual value Robert - for the reason you’ve given - and certainly it would be worth Steven replacing the coolant filler cap before looking elsewhere. Potentially a cheap and easy fix.

As Andy has suggested, a faulty temperature sensor or thermostat would be the next port of call, although the gauge does appear to be functioning so you’d think that there could be a problem with the thermostat, especially if it’s the original unit?

Jeff
 
Motorhead said:
You’re absolutely right about the temperature gauge not displaying the actual value Robert - for the reason you’ve given - and certainly it would be worth Steven replacing the coolant filler cap before looking elsewhere. Potentially a cheap and easy fix.

As Andy has suggested, a faulty temperature sensor or thermostat would be the next port of call, although the gauge does appear to be functioning so you’d think that there could be a problem with the thermostat, especially if it’s the original unit?

Jeff

Thanks for all the responses.
I’ll try the filler cap first.
If this doesn’t resolve it, then probably look at the sensor - I was told if the thermostat is sticking open it would register as a fault, can anyone confirm if this is right or not?

 
.... and a quick question, what was happening with the oil temperature while this was all going on?
 
I have a 997.2 C4S 3.8. My temp settles in @80c after driving few miles, and doesn't go above. I was assuming this is normal.
Reading this thread makes me think if I need get any check done!? What is ideal engine temp for 997s in general?
thanks
ravi
 
Perfectly normal Ravi. As noted in Reply #3 above the true coolant temperature isn’t displayed, for the reason given, and if there is an issue a coolant temperature warning will be given.

Jeff
 
Hi squarebob
Oil temp doesn’t move.
Re the earlier comments, have tried a new expansion tank cap, and no difference.
Did a return trip up to Rugby last week (120 miles each way) and coolant temp sat around 50 mark on motorway, up a little on local roads.
Logic says thermostat not closing fully - if at all - so coolant can’t get to normal running temp. Have it booked in to a local independent to get it sorted.
 

Hi Steven.
Have you had the sensor changed? The sensor is cheap and easy to change you will lose very little coolant.
I doubt very much it will be the stat if it only registers 50 degrees after a long run. If the stat is slow to open it would overheat and if it was stuck open it would just take a longer time to heat up say 5-10 miles. but then would get to normal running temp around 80.
It could also be some issue with the electronics misinterpreting the signal from the sensor but unlikely. Change the sensor,odds on job done.
Good luck
Andy
 
Update.
Heater was only giving warm air, even on 'full heat' so indicating engine not reaching full operating temp.
Local independent checked it out, and Thermostat seen as likely issue. Replaced it & now sorted - engine hits 80 within a few miles, and oil temp gets to 80 over around 20 mile run.
Thanks for all guidance & suggestions
 
The specialist should be able to look at more than "codes" - which are only ever thrown when the car thinks something is out of spec. With the right equipment ( even with "enthusiast level" equipment ) you can get live readings from the sensors in the car - and you can tell what the sensor is reading - if it's the sensor then sensor output and guage will agree, if its the gauge then the sensor and guage will differ.

I am not sure on the 997 - but many cars have multiple sensors - "either side" of the thermostat - with the right kit - those temps can be displayed.

As far as I understand it the reference to "low temp stat" is meaningless, low temp means it opens sooner , not runs cooler - so yes, in theory longer to warm up (like running a cortina without a stat) but the idea is to get the coolant flowing round the engine sooner - it's an attempt to prevent a hotspot forming in ( I think ) cyl 6 - before the system catches up and starts flowing around the whole system which is one of the primary causes of "bore score" - but a car with one won't "run colder".

1st off (as others have said) - try a new coolant cap - cheap direct from OPC - and almost a consumable item - the seals go hard after a while (you can replace the seal on its own if you want).

If that doesn't make a difference I would suggest try another specialist since I think there is more investigation and information available than "looks ok" available.
 

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