996 flat battery woes
- Thread starter danielmelbourne
- Start date
danielmelbourne
New member
Hi Jenik1914, I hadn't, but after reading the owners book last night I did try this. No joy. Aside from the point when I discovered the flat battery when unlocking the door, the alarm hasn't gone off. Well, it has chirped a few times when trying to trickle charge via the cigarette socket. I'm going to see if the pull cable is on the passenger's side inner wheel well tonight, if still no joy.......................?
Hi Daniel,
Sorry to hear about your continuing woes. I'm not sure if this helps but here's the PET for your car (996 Carrera 1998-2005?). Have a look at Illustration 803 in the Main Group 8: Body section which shows the emergency release cable. The problem is that this looks like the PET for a LHD car, in which case it may be on the opposite side for your RHD car - all very confusing!
https://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts/en/E_996T_KATALOG.pdf
Hope you get it sorted soon.
Jeff
Sorry to hear about your continuing woes. I'm not sure if this helps but here's the PET for your car (996 Carrera 1998-2005?). Have a look at Illustration 803 in the Main Group 8: Body section which shows the emergency release cable. The problem is that this looks like the PET for a LHD car, in which case it may be on the opposite side for your RHD car - all very confusing!
https://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts/en/E_996T_KATALOG.pdf
Hope you get it sorted soon.
Jeff
danielmelbourne
New member
Hi all, as an update I am finally sorted. Thanks to everyone for their advice.
I had tried to find the pull cable in the passengers wheel well last night with no joy.
After a suggestion from an AA chap, the batter connection on the fuse board was tried again and even though the bonnet release switch didn't operate the button on the key fob did!
I have now replaced the dead Halfords Yuasa battery for a shiny Bosch S4.
Everything is now good apart from the drivers door window isn't operating, my fears about the constant relay sounds from the door when trying to trickle charge are being realised.
At least I can still drive it.
Thanks again all.
I had tried to find the pull cable in the passengers wheel well last night with no joy.
After a suggestion from an AA chap, the batter connection on the fuse board was tried again and even though the bonnet release switch didn't operate the button on the key fob did!
I have now replaced the dead Halfords Yuasa battery for a shiny Bosch S4.
Everything is now good apart from the drivers door window isn't operating, my fears about the constant relay sounds from the door when trying to trickle charge are being realised.
At least I can still drive it.
Thanks again all.
I’m pleased to know that you’ve been successful. I bet you have a huge feeling of relief and your blood pressure will be dropping to normal. You’ve made a good move replacing your battery with a Bosch.
You may be right about the window but on my VW the windows reset after several operations, you may be lucky.
You may have various warnings displayed but they should reset once you drive a short distance at I believe over 15mph.
You can now get back to driving and feeling the passion for Porsche again.
Roger
You may be right about the window but on my VW the windows reset after several operations, you may be lucky.
You may have various warnings displayed but they should reset once you drive a short distance at I believe over 15mph.
You can now get back to driving and feeling the passion for Porsche again.
Roger
thirteeneast
Active member
Whenever I return home and park in the garage, I pop the hood and the deck before getting out the car as it makes life much simpler.
I mean literally always.
I mean literally always.
danielmelbourne
New member
That is very good advice.
thirteeneast
Active member
It's part of my checklist before getting out, 1=frunk, 2=trunk, 3=dashcam parking mode off, 4= plug in ctek (might change this to a solar panel)
But I only got there by learning from my mistakes the hard way.
Off topic, a while back I replaced my17 year old Bosch S4 for an updated 85a Bosch S5 and it lasted 3 month's
You can check the date by the batch number on the side, mine was new but still fubared.
The sales guy told me they ain't what they used to be.
Yuasa however are some of the best batteries I've ever seen.
But I only got there by learning from my mistakes the hard way.
Off topic, a while back I replaced my17 year old Bosch S4 for an updated 85a Bosch S5 and it lasted 3 month's
You can check the date by the batch number on the side, mine was new but still fubared.
The sales guy told me they ain't what they used to be.
Yuasa however are some of the best batteries I've ever seen.
Sorry I'm late to the party, but just to clarify - If you have an early 996 with mechanical release levers on the sill, then the emergency release cable is on the passenger side (RHD) under the headlamp tray. If you have electric releases, the cable is on the driver's side.
Another option under such circumstances is to fish out the emergency release cable for the engine compartment lid from behind the rear light cluster on the passenger side. If you get the lid open there are points in there you can attach jumper leads.
Another option under such circumstances is to fish out the emergency release cable for the engine compartment lid from behind the rear light cluster on the passenger side. If you get the lid open there are points in there you can attach jumper leads.
Yes as stated, tab in the footwell ie terminal in the fuse box.
I tried the method as per the video. This is the best way, as trying to find the bonnet release behind the wheel arch is a waste of time too.
You can even see the cable between the rear near-side light and the bumper when you pry it apart a little.
As per the video, I attached a battery jumper and opened the bonnet using the normal switch in the driver sill.
I tried the method as per the video. This is the best way, as trying to find the bonnet release behind the wheel arch is a waste of time too.
You can even see the cable between the rear near-side light and the bumper when you pry it apart a little.
As per the video, I attached a battery jumper and opened the bonnet using the normal switch in the driver sill.
I had to do this recently, I would suggest the best thing to hook it with is a long kebab skewer, the cheap ones you get from the pound store that are a good 18 inches long, longer the better, they're made of 10mm wide stuff and wide enough to get good purchase on, plus you can rotate them to get on the loop easily. Open up the loop on the end of the kebab skewer just a touch so you can hook it around the cable.
Best access to hook it is full steering lock to the right, and if you need to take it off (assuming you keep the locking wheel nut out of the frunk) do take it off. Wheel arch liner(s) will need to come out, again this is possible with the wheel on the car (18 inch wheels), but it might take a couple of rotations of the steering wheel from lock to lock as you undo things and a bit of jiggling.
A really decent torch you can position on top of the wheel or wedged into the suspension will give you a look into behind the headlight, then you will catch a glimpse of it up high in the corner, mine was barely visible, loop the corner with you skewer and give it a good hard tug.
patience is the key here, removing the liners... once you here the bonnet pop, you're away. Also, one extra thing that happened was the bonnet release was stuck open as friction in the cable run was holding it that way, so I had to slacken that slightly, then one thing i didn't do is make sure it's tucked back in a place where you can get it next time.. as will inevitably happen.
couple of photos! the light blurry vertical line in the second is the actual loop. The grommet and loom is the abs / wheel speed stuff. The warning sticker is the back of the headlight (xenon)
hope this helps.
Cheers
JB
Best access to hook it is full steering lock to the right, and if you need to take it off (assuming you keep the locking wheel nut out of the frunk) do take it off. Wheel arch liner(s) will need to come out, again this is possible with the wheel on the car (18 inch wheels), but it might take a couple of rotations of the steering wheel from lock to lock as you undo things and a bit of jiggling.
A really decent torch you can position on top of the wheel or wedged into the suspension will give you a look into behind the headlight, then you will catch a glimpse of it up high in the corner, mine was barely visible, loop the corner with you skewer and give it a good hard tug.
patience is the key here, removing the liners... once you here the bonnet pop, you're away. Also, one extra thing that happened was the bonnet release was stuck open as friction in the cable run was holding it that way, so I had to slacken that slightly, then one thing i didn't do is make sure it's tucked back in a place where you can get it next time.. as will inevitably happen.
couple of photos! the light blurry vertical line in the second is the actual loop. The grommet and loom is the abs / wheel speed stuff. The warning sticker is the back of the headlight (xenon)
hope this helps.
Cheers
JB
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