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91 Turbo front caliper bolts seized

V

Vic Rattlehead

New member
Ello chaps,

Just as the title says, come to remove the front caliper on my 91 turbo (so m030 brakes) and the mounting bolts are seized solid and have started to round out. Anyone got any ideas/options or experience with this. Other than drilling out and re-tapping/helicoil caliper and steering knuckle I'm coming up with nothing.

Cheers,
Russ
 
One size is 19mm other is 18mm quite easy to put wrong size on thinking there the same. A ring spanner and a shock with hammer should work try some plus gas 1st
 
As above plus try "shocking" the socket head bolts with a hammer and punch as per Clark's Garage. If you do end up having to drill the heads off - its recommended to try to use a stud extractor (reverse bite) as they just might unscrew for you - after lots of penetrating oil of course.
 
I know this might be a daft question, but are you trying the right bolts (and not the ones that hold the calipers together)? A long shot, but just in case....

Failing that, I don't know if you have space to get an impact gun on there, or an impact driver
 
Always use flank drive sockets on things like this or if you cant get it out then use these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-5-piece-expansion-extractor-set-5-16-8mm-3-4-19mm-TE497-/141301373612?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item20e637daac. You really shouldn't have to drill them out unless it is a last resort.Never use a multi point socket on nuts and bolts that are tight as you'll just round them and then you will need your Irwins.

Flank drives http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAC-TOO-1-2-Drive-Flank-Drive-Impact-Sockets-Free-Snap-On-Sticker-/271533186832?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3f38a39f10

I would never resort to hitting spanners with a hammer. That will only round or sheer the bolt. If it won't move then use a good flank drive socket and a long bar. Then apply a constantly building pressure to the bar. Never try and jerk the bar or hit it with hammers. If you still cant move it then get a longer bar and try again.I'm not trying to teach you how to suck eggs but you'd be surprised how many people don't know how to use a spanner or a socket set properly and consistently round and sheer bolts.
 
Shock trick has worked for me many times. Don't smash away at it but when there no more room to add extra length for levage. I double check my direction on tight things with a socket set even if I'm using a spanner just to make sure I'm putting the pressure in the right way.

Them flank drives would you use them over a standard type for every use? Understand how they work placing the pressure on the flat edge rather then the corners
 
I must admit that I do prefer a flank drive socket. But I have multi point ones as well.I tend to use a flank drive if I think it might be tight or a bit rusty etc.
 
Was wondering if you could get some heat onto the bolt with a blow torch to try and release it?

Phil
91 S2
 
Vic, you dealing with an allen head bolt? (Socket head cap screw)

If so, a 40mm length section of 12mm steel bolt welded carefully around the top of the Cap Screw may work.

It allows you to get a hex head onto it, and the heat penetration will lengthen the shank of the Cap Screw and reduce its tension.

It will be difficult to avoid some mark to the caliper paint work

Hope all 4 are not like this [:(]

Good luck
George
944t
 
I had the same problem removing M030 callipers from spindles - allen key bolts rounded-off.

I took the uprights off the car and took them to a local engineering company - some flat metal bar was welded to the heads of the bolts, then with a bit of heat applied to the spindle we were able to turn the bar (and the bolt) with a pair of adjustable spanners. A bit nerve-wracking but all good in the end.

Just picking up on George's comment above - I had to re-paint the caliper afterwards.

Mick
 
Thanks for the replies everyone.

George, it's the allen head types. EDH, yeah I got the correct ones[;)]

I'd been through the whole process...WD-40, shocking the head, 10mm hex head on a torque wrench, breaker bars, heat on the calliper.....They were just not shifting.

I've ended up taking the assembly apart and giving it to my uncle. He's going to get it on the bench at work and drill the head off and back the stud out with an extractor. He's also going to look at the slide plate screws whilst he has it so I can address the plate lift.

Looks like I've got a calliper refurb on my hands to go with the rest of the restoration.

Cheers,

Russ
 
ORIGINAL: Vic Rattlehead

Ello chaps,

Just as the title says, come to remove the front caliper on my 91 turbo (so m030 brakes) and the mounting bolts are seized solid and have started to round out. Anyone got any ideas/options or experience with this. Other than drilling out and re-tapping/helicoil caliper and steering knuckle I'm coming up with nothing.

Cheers,
Russ
Click to expand...

Irwin bolt removers grip the cap heads.

If undoing any tight cap head/allen head bolts I always use them.
 
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