2.5 engine oil cooler gasket change

[geoffbateman]

Hello again everybody. I have an oil leak on the engine of my 1987 2.5 Lux. It looks pretty much as if it's the oil cooler cover to engine joint which I believe is quite a common failure. I've seen kits from Porschapart for about £35 and I've read the Haynes manual, the factory 944 manual and had a look at the parts book to see how it all goes together. It looks fairly straightforward, once you can get to it but both the manuals show dismantling on a removed, "dry" engine. I was under the impression that the oil cooler is an oil to water cooler. The question is has anyone on here done the job and if so do I need to drain down the cooling system before I start the job. Is it possible to just remove the cover and replace the gasket without removing the cooler matrix? Any help or comments, as usual greatly appreciated.

 

[robwright]

In a word. No.

 

[Mike_Pollock]

I've done the job, engine in car and Rob is correct - no way at all.

It is quite awkward in any case and you must drain the coolant from the bottom of the engine or it will find its way into the sump!

Don't ask how I know.....

 

[robwright]

For best access you will need to remove the exhaust headers and power steering pump. It sounds a fairly simple procedure but actually a right PITA. There's a reason why you only saw pictures of it being done on an engine stand lol. There is a good write up though on Clark's. www.clarks-garage.com

 

[Eldavo]

It's a job I never got around to on my old 2.7 but I still have the OPC unopened full seal replacement kit here.

If you fancy tackling the job, you can have it for £25 posted

 

[geoffbateman]

Thanks for all the replies. I have removed the exhaust headers and you are quite right, it's a right PITA to do. 2 nuts you I couldn't even get a spanner on without grinding it down a lot first. Got a seal kit, but now I've got the headers off and the oil filter out of the way (I'm trying to find an oil leak) it doesn't look as if there's any problem with the oil cooler casing gasket, it looks like the leak is higher up the engine and the oil has just been running down onto the top of the housing and dripping off the bottom. It's a right PITA as to run the engine I need to put all the stuff back to get oil pressure. The saga will continue, but thanks for all the help so far.

 

[924nutter]

I did the job on my 944 s suspecting a oil/water intercooler leak, and it is "F" awkward but not impossible for the truly dedicated. To answer your question about just removing the cover, unfortunately the cover is all that holds the matrix in. Porsche worked on the problem of getting the "o" ring material and gasket compound right, and I you spend a few more " da-da-POUNDS" the kit you would get from Porsche (if one is available) would be your best chance of eradicating the leak. From memory the seal kit is four O rings for the stub pipes on the matrix and a steel shim-like plate with a bonded gasket, but I will concede to greater experience because when I did mine I dont think I had even joined th club back then, in 1993. If you have 13mm universal socket x 3/8 drive, i.e. a socket with a u/j articulation cast into the back of the socket, (shorter than a std socket+ separate u/j) this will make life easier and I believe that I freed one engine mount and jacked the engine up somewhat, and was able to access it through the off side wheel arch with the wheel removed. I don't recall taking off the power steering pump, but hell it was 20 years ago.

 

[geoffbateman]

Mike, when you did the job did you use the tool that goes in the oil pressure relief valve hole to align the casing or is it possible to just use the valve to do the job. If you used the special tool, where did you get it from? Thanks.

 

[924nutter]

I can answer that; in my case I did'nt, sometimes ignorance of a special tool is bliss. Maybe I was just lucky and extremely patient.

 

[geoffbateman]

Thanks John, I was hoping someone would say that!!

 

[Mike_Pollock]

ORIGINAL: 924nutter

I can answer that; in my case I did'nt, sometimes ignorance of a special tool is bliss. Maybe I was just lucky and extremely patient.

Me too.

 

[geoffbateman]

Big thanks to all who have helped me on this. Job is now done. Garage floor is now spotless (nearly) and so far water is in water system and oil is in oil system. Took the car out for a bit of a shakedown yesterday and all is fine. Fitted a new oil pressure sender but now think I have a problem at the gauge end. Oil pressure hot (with test gauge) is about 2.5 bar and rises to about 5.5 bar at 5000 rpm where it flats out so the oil pressure relief looks as if it's working OK. However at tick over car gauge reads 2.5 to 3 bar hot but as soon as it goes above 3.5 the needle shoots up to top of the scale and stays there. I'm going to meter the output signal from the sender, just to check it out. If it's the gauge I'm going to fit an aftermarket good old fashioned capilliary type I think.