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16v plug leads

M

Monkeythree

New member
Investigating the possible reasons for my rough running on my newly purchased S2 today and i found that I have 3 Beru plug leads (I presume OEM) and one Toyota one! I haven't been able to diagnose if this is a contributing factor or not but to be fair, it looks like a not half bad substitute. Is this a well known bodge?

Cheers,
M3

P.S. distributor cap found to be shagged and presumed to be most likely cause of rough running.
 
My car was running really rough not long after I first bought it. I was advised on here it was likely to be the plugs changed them and works a treat now. Don't know if you've heard of it (I hand't until I was told on here) but pop the bonnet and turn the engine on in the dark and see if you can see any sparks coming from the leads which I could might be worth a try though if theyre a miss match worth doing anyway?
Fingers crossed you get it sorted bud.
 
BERU Do indeed make the original leads. However, I would brace yourself for how much OEM leads are, even by specialists who sell them at a reasonable price (To be fair, they are not that much more than decent leads on a modern, but still!). To be fair, the fit of the BERU leads is superb, better than most other leads I have used in the past (You can appreciate where the cost goes!).

As above, I would lift the bonnet up and see how you fare. With my S2 despite it running reasonable well, it was arcing quite a bit at night time!
 
Beru 16v leads are twice the price of 8v leads? Why I have no idea. If Toyota ones fit then this may well work out cheaper 4 same quatly off product.

Volvo dissy cap is the same Bosch one as 16v and is much cheaper as a Volvo part.
 
Interconnects IMO. They have quite fancy long reach adaptors to go down into the plugs.

As I was saying the fit was far superior to the £60 Magnecors I purchased for my sister's Mondeo (I got sick of the Misfires and longevity of the £20-30 HT leads). The Magnecors did do the job I admit, but Ford's price of £130 was crazy...
 
I have ordered a distributor cap and will see how it runs once i have fitted that. I generally prefer to fit OEM spare parts when replacing things like plug leads but with the BERU ones being as expensive as they are, and the Toyota one apparently a reasonable substitute (it has a very similar long solid rubber nose at the plug end), I was wondering if a full set of the Toyota ones would be an acceptable replacement? Obviously, i would have to identify which Toyota they come from. Thoughts?

M3
 
Slightly off-topic: what would people suggest for an 8v car? I bought the last OEM set that GSF had a few years ago and everyone seems to be asking double that price, now.

 
Jon at Jmg recommened breu leads over anything else.

I replaced my 8v leads with some from gfs as they where in stock. But where bbt brand the very same set that fell 2 bit when trying 2 change the spark plugs and I don't think there old just such a tight fit.

Got so breu ones now, just waiting to fit them. The new beru leads have these chunky protectors over the wires in places. Not very pretty
 
Beru leads are the best choice, although I have never seen or heard of Toyota as a substitute. And yes, they are very pricey, and yes it is the bits that connect to the plugs themselves (with the long 'noses') that makes them so expensive.

Bad running is best addressed by taking everything back to stock condition. So new plugs, new leads (if in any doubt about their age and quality) and new cap and rotor arm (yes, it's worth changing this too.) Replacing all these bits cures 90% of misfire problems.

Let us know how you get on. And yes, there is a Volvo (760turbo, I seem to remember) cap that is a straight swap for the standard one. Look in the 'alternative parts fitment' thread for more details - I put photos of mine in there when I swapped it over.


Oli.

ETA: Here, post #1:

http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=467365

ETA again: M3, I have the set of leads that came off my S2 which I think aren't entirely duff, and doing nothing. I replaced them as a precautionary move. If you want them (for diagnostic purposes) then let me know. (Although I will ask for a couple of beer tokens to cover postage!)


Oli.
 

ORIGINAL: 944 man

Slightly off-topic: what would people suggest for an 8v car? I bought the last OEM set that GSF had a few years ago and everyone seems to be asking double that price, now.
Click to expand...

How much did you originally pay? I was shocked at how much ignotion leads cost, seen one company wanting £300 for a set lol, made me feel really happy at getting some new 8v leads for £80 posted :)
 
:( wish it was still that. If its any help carparts911 where the cheapest option I could find for some 8v ones the other week
 
ye magnecor were the cheapest I could find when I was looking though I settled for OEM instead as they were only an extra £10 more and I've heard mixed things about magnecor in the past about their fitment to other cars [&:]
Though dunno how much cheaper they'd be for a 16v
 
A lone, non Porsche lead suggests to me that someone's already been trying to identify the misfire by substituting the leads...standard method is to get it running (if it will, of course) then remove the leads one by one. In most cases, if it's only running on 3, pulling the lead off the plug will just make it stall (running on 2?) but if you pull one off and it makes little/no difference, then that's the one!

Had to do this once in darkest rural France when our Ford started running on 3, and after lots of garages where the response was the French equivalent of "....hah, mate, not for one of those..." I ended up with a Peugeot lead.

It's worth, then, checking the plug or the inside of the distributor cap. Maybe do a compression test too?
 
+1 for KV85 Magnecor leads. I've had mine for a few years now and they work well.

Stuart
 
-1 for pulling the leads off the plugs when it's running though. If it then earths through you, it bloody hurts!
 
Given the state of the inside of my distributor cap, I am fairly confident that it is this rather than the leads which is the problem and replacing the cap will at least get it running.

I will then check the leads in turn with my timing light with an inductive pickup which is a less painful method than risking to yank off the leads when the car is running! I've done that before and quickly learned my lesson.

My main interest and the reason for my OP was to try and establish if the Toyota plug lead bodge was a known and accepted practice on the 16V engines but it seems not.

I will see how mine runs and will decide from there if the rogue Toyota lead can stay for a while or if an OEM set is essential.

Cheers,

M3
 
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