Screen/Headlight Wash Pump - late turbo

[scam75]

Hi Guys.

My washer pump is not working. Fuse is fine, nothing to screen or headlamps. The wipers come on when I try to scoosh the screen so assume the stalk is fine.

Seems to be well hidden on the turbo, haven't seen it since my engine was out lol. What's the easiest way to get it out, and has anyone got a part number or are there alternative choices for replacing?

Thanks in advance as ever

Stuart

 

[blade7]

No easy way to get the pump out, it's buried down low. I gave the pump a few whacks with a long extension bar, and that woke it up. If I remember right, there are 2 pumps if you have headlamp washers. I think Eldavo retro fitted an early washer bottle with much easier to access pumps.

 

[scam75]

Thanks. Seems odd if 2 pumps have seized simultaneously then. Will give it a prod and see if it helps. Could you whack it from the engine bay or did you need to go underneath?

 

[blade7]

I've never checked if the headlamp washers work, don't know if they have to for the MOT. I said whacks, in truth it was probably just taps and that was from above. Some posters claimed they got the pump out from above, no way I could do that, with my manly hands .

 

[dlknight]

You should be able to get to the pumps from underneath IIRC, maybe you have got a blockage. Happened to mine years ago when I used some cheap screen wash from the petrol station that reacted and turned to snot. I remember removing the drain bung on my reservoir and flushing it. The pumps just pull out (friction fit).

 

[scam75]

Thanks. It's odd though, can't hear a thing from the pumps with the engine off. Both are dead, and I'm struggling to believe both have died at the same time, they were super healthy only 2 weeks ago. I will swap out my spare column stalk and see if that makes a difference. Fuse is fine. Is there a relay at all for the pumps?

 

[blade7]

At the risk of stating the obvious, do you have the headlamps on when checking the headlamp washers? I think there was some dismantling required to get to the screen pump from underneath, and remember putting the job off, until I had to do it for an MOT. I was quite relieved when a few taps with the extension bar cured it.

 

[scam75]

Well sir, it's a good point well made. I was trying with the lights down, no wonder it didn't work! Lights up, headlamp washers perfect. Still nothing at the windscreen. Long bar, dink dink on the closest to the bottom of the reservoir I could see with the lights up (couldn't see pump from top), scoosh scoosh! All sorted! Pump is £9 for an equivalent on ebay if need be! Happy days and cheers Paul!!

I too am relieved!!

 

[blade7]

Ha ha, you're welcome. Just make sure to give the screen washers a regular squirt to keep them clear. If you don't use it, you lose it.

 

[dlknight]

Haha - well spotted, forgot the lights needed to be up for the washers to work.

 

[scam75]

Yeah it's my daily driver and I'm in Scotland so they get regular use lol. Best part of 4 weeks laid up obviously took its toll!

Also when I got it back on the road I was only getting 4 blower speed, no 1, 2 or 3. Resistor needing soaked in vinegar. Bought vinegar, next morning all worked and been fine since!

When it was off the road for a year for engine rebuild, the indicators didn't work when I drove home from mates garage. Bought a new relay and before it arrived they started working again and have done ever since! Clearly not happy being idle these old cars!

 

[dlknight]

I performed a little repair on my coolant gauge sensor wiring a week or so ago, hoping to see if that cures the issue with it pegging at the top. Shall keep you posted, tested the sensor with a multimeter and all seemed OK, I also tested the gauge with some suitable value resistors and confirmed it was working fine.

 

[scam75]

I performed a little repair on my coolant gauge sensor wiring a week or so ago, hoping to see if that cures the issue with it pegging at the top. Shall keep you posted, tested the sensor with a multimeter and all seemed OK, I also tested the gauge with some suitable value resistors and confirmed it was working fine.

Interesting. Mine is as mad as a wasp stuck in a jam jar just now, gave up with it. Use the oil pressure gauge now to judge water temp and stick the heaters on hot for a few seconds every now and then to make sure I still have coolant!!

I'm sure you still have my spare binnacle PCB I sent. I'm sure you said it checked out fine.

Interestingly I was discussing flicky temp gauge syndrome on a 944 WhatsApp group I'm in the other day, and Mike Pollock reckoned it was due to wiring, which corroborates with your latest fix attempt.

The thing that blows my head, and the wiring theory, is that when I change a rugby ball, the gauge behaves for a few months before returning to mad wasp mode. Why, just why?

And edit to add, why does a firm flick of the binnacle stop it misbehaving sometimes? How can that affect wiring in the engine bay? I'm beaten and confused by this lol

 

[dlknight]

Not sure but wiring does make sense as if the wire is shorting to earth, then it will have no resistance which is why the gauge goes to max.

The wires going to my sensor were cracked and the core was exposed, plus the spade connectors weren't in the best condition.

 

[scam75]

Thanks. It does make sense. The dash flicking does not!!

 

[scam75]

Hi David. I'm assuming you refer to the sensor near spark plug one, you can clearly see from engine bay, with 2 x spades? And then the wiring running from that back to the loom?

 

[dlknight]

Thanks. It does make sense. The dash flicking does not!!

Unfortunately, I haven't fixed the issue

I was looking into a cooling system problem yesterday, as the last drive I did in very hot weather to a local car show, the coolant boiled over whilst stuck in traffic.

As soon as I turned on the ignition the needle went to the top of the gauge, after a while it came down by itself, but I witnessed it go up and down by itself a few times.

It is definitely the gauge, I've tested it on the bench (without the rugby balls), and when you rotate it or move the gauge in a certain direction it pegs at max briefly before returning to the correct temp. I guess there is something wrong with the windings inside the gauge causing a short to ground.

I also noticed the 68 ohm resistor that is on both the coolant and fuel gauge gets very hot, but the resistance tested OK with a multimeter.

 

[scam75]

More interesting findings, I admire your tenacity! I kind of thought as much all along. Flicking the dash can only affect the gauge. I've had 3 gauges and they've all been fine for points and then reverted to going mental. I think we can rule out rugby balls now after your testing.

I've never had a fuel gauge misbehave in a similar fashion.

At one point on ebay, a particular vendor (can't recall who) had umpteen gauges for sale, £25 a pop. I bought 2 at various points. The first one cured the issue for many years before going tits up again. Now you never see single gauges, only clowns selling full binnacles for £500

I have a temp gauge that I think is ok, or at least was, but when I got it the fuel side was knackered!! It looked like a near impossible job to put a working fuel gauge with it. I might have another look.

I have another gauge that used to work, and now it doesn't move at all, but I'm sure it flicked from time to time before it gave up the ghost.

Must be somebody out there that can sort them out for a reasonable price...............

 

[dlknight]

I tested my fuel gauge as well, but the gauge is different and has different parts to the temp gauge.

I did look if it was possible to remove the main part of the gauge from the dial but as you say it looked like it isn't designed to come apart. Maybe there is another VW/Audi produce from the 80s/90s that shares the same innards, maybe even the 928.

EDIT: The 928 one looks practically identical - https://www.design911.co.uk/p/temperature-and-fuel-gauge-indicator-instrument-porsche-928/

 

[scam75]

I tested my fuel gauge as well, but the gauge is different and has different parts to the temp gauge.

I did look if it was possible to remove the main part of the gauge from the dial but as you say it looked like it isn't designed to come apart. Maybe there is another VW/Audi produce from the 80s/90s that shares the same innards, maybe even the 928.

EDIT: The 928 one looks practically identical - https://www.design911.co.uk/p/temperature-and-fuel-gauge-indicator-instrument-porsche-928/

Yeah you have to remove the needle to extract it, that's hard enough without wrecking the needle/spindle/gauge, then 100 times harder is refitting the needle once you've transplanted a gauge. It's like a glued push fit. The spindle is flimsy (bends with the force needed to re-push-fit needle), as is the needle, in fact the orange bit on the needle seems like cardboard!

I got the needle off my broken gauge but I'm not convinced it would ever work again, super delicate. I did eventually test refit the needle (on a straightened spindle after it bent when I looked at it the wrong way!) so I'll plug it back it at some point and see what happens! (this particular fuel gauge was stuck at a quarter, regardless of the fuel you had. Odds on the refitted needle will fall off after a few bumps on the road!) As this was a sacrificial gauge I wasn't too bothered about it breaking. A shame as the temp gauge seemed to work fine. I would not attempt on a working gauge after my experience!

The 928 gauge looks identical and interesting it has a part number, I'm pretty sure you can only buy a full binnacle if you search the 944 catalogue. £360 including vat though, ouch!!