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Non start issue again

944Volks

944Volks

New member
Sorry to bring it up again but scratching my head. 3ltr S2 engine.
Has fuel.
Was running and suddenly cut out at lights.
All other electrics are working okay.
Engine is turning over.
Rev counter is jumping.
DME relay has been jumped, can hear fuel pump running.
It just won't start!
Help! Cheers.
 
rotor arm?... when I first got my car back on the road I lost everything at a set of lights, engine just died and wouldn't start. I had no tools on me to investigate...I had fuel, injectors were working using a LED for testing, I had spark but she wouldn't run...I had no option but to get the car trailer-ed home. Anyway, next day began checking things and when removing the distributor cap i heard something fall out. I knew immediately that the rotor arm had come loose and was my problem...my fault for not securing with loctite. The thing is I had a spark but not at the correct time, something I had no way of knowing on the roadside. I'm not sure on the setup for the S2 but mention this just in case it's of help..

Hope you get it sorted...

Pete
 
hmm... well other things to check, are the reference sensors fully plugged in, probably good idea to unplug and give the contacts a clean.

can you hear the fuel pump when turning the key?
Do you have an alarm fitted with an immobiliser, you'd be surprised how many cars won't start due to a faulty alarm.
Have you checked for spark?
Take out the plugs and give then a good clean, they should be very wet due to you trying to crank the car, if not you've not getting fuel.

There will be other things...just need to go through them bit by bit..

pete
 
When I had my 944 it was the reference sensors and associated wiring that were the root cause of hot start issues.
 
Hi, Definitely agree with above poster on checking the immobiliser - if the original dealer-fitted Hamilton & Palmer device is still present (the one with the little fob that has to be plugged in to a receptacle on the steering column prior to starting the car) it will be well past its retirement age by now. Also, had any work been done to the car just prior to the fault occurring?
If there's no spark that points to immobiliser or reference sensor. My S2 has only one reference sensor, it plugs in on top of the fuel rail near the firewall.
 
Mine never got to the point of not starting - but I had high or variable idle speed and sometimes it stalled when off the gas stopping at lights etc.

Tried all sorts of things but a new flywheel ref sensor is the thing that finally cured it.
 
Thanks guys for your thoughts.
I thought that the rev counter bouncing on turn over meant it wasn't reference sensor.???

I will give fuller story.
Have had this before.
Changed reference sensor. (Only one, connector on fuel rail by firewall )
It started.
Drove 700 miles.
Stopped, cut out stone dead at traffic lights.
Wouldn't restart.
Got towed home.
Car restarted. Ran on tick over for 10 minutes.
Cut out.
Will not restart.

Had supposed auto electrician (hmmmmm) look at it. Couldn't find fault. Said it has no immobiliser, just alarm and that won't stop it starting.

Can it be reference sensor after only 700miles?
Even though techo is bouncing?
 
When fitting the new sensor did you 'mic' it to IIRC have a 0.8mm gap? I'm just thinking aloud as to what it would do if the gap was incorrect, could it be just in spec but not enough for when warmed up? it's just a wild idea, I can't recall how close the tolerance is for the sensor or even if there is likely to be any movement once warmed up....perhaps not but thought that I'd put it out there anyway....you never know...:)

Pete
 
944Volks said:
I thought that the rev counter bouncing on turn over meant it wasn't reference sensor.???
Click to expand...


I couldnt say for sure - but all the while mine was misbehaving, the tacho was working fine.
 
I had a similar issue with my old 924S. It was a dodgy connection 'somewhere' between the battery and the ignition coil, possibly fuse box but can't fully remember. Might be worth routing some wires straight from the battery to the ignition coil, running it for a while and seeing if the problem goes away? If not, then problem is on the engine-side of the coil. Remember to disconnect the wires when your not using the car. Good luck.
 
Thanks for your feedback guys.
This is really annoying me now.

When I changed reference sensor, I didn't interfere with mount.
Just unbolted and rebolted new sensor.
So didn't check gap. Is there any need? Thought that was just for clutch change?
How do you do it?

 
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