Leaking fuel tank

[Robin]

Is there a reccomended jollop for sealing pinholes in a 924 fuel tank?
Does it last?
Is the only long term solution to replace the fuel tank?
Do any of the later 924S/944/968 tanks fit?
Any ideas please?

 

[richard kirk]

Hi Robin I have this problem developing on my 924 Turbo, there is no replacement tank option for me as the Turbo tank is different and no longer available. I have bought another used tank which I will get refurbished then swap them over, this no easy task but worth it in my opinion. Whilst the tank is out fuel and brake lines in that area can be renewed resolving other potential problems. My car also needs some work on the rear suspension and exhaust system, I will tackle all of this in one project very soon. I do not know whether the tank from a later car will fit into yours, hopefully someone else on here will advise you about that. If not I will speak to the Technicians at work to see if they know the answer.

 

[scm924s]

Fuel tanks from the early 944 and 924S will fit your car, essentially all the steel tanks, later plastic one won't without a great deal of trouble. Tanks can be refurbished, google for a choice.

 

[r6rob968]

porschapart at ramsbottom, bury do exchange refurb tanks, not too east to fit due to the gearbox coming out, think it was about £200, 10 years ago.

 

[richard kirk]

Thanks for the clarification, I hoped someone would be along with the answer. It can be quiet on this Forum, that will only change if we visit and add comments.

 

[r6rob968]

mine was for a 1977 martini which was slightly different to the newer 924`s, it was full of rust. they had a couple in stock of each but that was a while ago,also came with the sender unit. rob,

 

[richard kirk]

I think they will cost a bit more than that now. Do you still have the 1977 Martini Rob?

 

[r6rob968]

no, sold the martini, have a 968 sport now, my old car was on ebay last year selling from ireland, ROP 351R, selling it with less owners than when i had it? think i sold it 8 years ago.

 

[Robin]

Thanks for this information, just to give an update on what I did when faced with a leaking tank. Reversed the car onto ramps in the driveway and put a container under the dripping area. Siphoned as much of the fuel as I could into containers including a bucket ! removing about 42 litres. Removed the in-tank-pump and using a vacuum cleaner on blow, forced air through the tank to help dry the inside, it worked quite well. then cleaned off the dripping area of the tank and treated the rust. The problem was 4 small pinholes in the tank just above the depression where the in tank pump fits and right where the offside rear wheel would throw up stones and water from the road. When the tank seemed to be dry I mixed up some Plastic Padding 'Leak Fix' from Halfords (£5.49) and applied it to the holed area spreading it out around the leaks. I repeated the application after rubbing down the first and let them dry for about two hours. Then overcoated the whole (sorry) area with a generous coat of a black two pack epoxy paint which is chemical resistant and let it dry overnight. The next day I replaced the in-tank-pump, cleaning the filter first and all of the pipes and electrics. I then put 20 litres of petrol into the tank, reconnected the battery and left the car standing to check for leaks. So far, two days on it appears dry and without the tell tale smell of petrol. We went to our Club night in the car. This is only a "temporary" repair so I will keep you posted on what happens, (I might just get a fire extinguisher in the car though) Thanks for your help. sorry can't post photos, don't know how to.

 

[924nutter]

Great write up on how to provide temporary respite from a leaking tank Robin. It is only going to be temporary because it's only a matter of time before the inevitable happens somewhere else. The Haynes as you know by know is not entirely accurate when it comes to the removal of the gearbox. The fifth speed of the five speed box is sort of stuck on the outside at the end and makes the box 100 mm longer so it can only be drawn back about 10mm. It does come out though. There is a plastic tube that goes through the bell housing which the gear-change rod passes through, and that needs to be slid towards the front and out of way or you'll put a fair old bend in it when you try to tilt it down and out. Luckily the connecting sleeve for the drive shaft can be manipulated from the gearbox input shaft to allow it to tilt. Think you self lucky it's not a turbo box because the top two flange bolts are an absolute nightmare to reach, let alone undo. I think the Haynes covers the rest of it.

 

[Contraband]

I'm thinking if you have a few holes then it's obviously gone very thin in places. Puting plastic padding on it will stop leaks but not give it any structural strength. I would be getting it refurbed asap. I would also not be puting too much heavy fuel in it until it's refurbed.

 

[tref]

Nothing like old thread resurrection! I have a 924 I have been stripping of parts, and just removed the fuel tank. To me it looks to be in remarkably good condition, however, where do these typically leak/rust out so I can pay closer attention to those areas?

TIA,

Tref.

 

[pse_SC]

...where do these typically leak/rust out so I can pay closer attention to those areas?

All over [&:], Tref, but particularly in the area of the supporting straps, seams and outlet, from previous experience. I’ve luckily never had to replace one, though - usually look worse than they are, unless you have a specific leak.

 

[Robin]

Just thought you might like to know that to date my leaky fuel tank repair has lasted just over 5 years and 19519 miles, using all sorts of fuel including the French 85E10 fuel. Currently using 95 Octane Tesco fuel quite happily.