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964RS Hints & Tips

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RSGulp
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RSGulp PCGB Member
2007/10/28 12:26:39 (permalink)

964RS Hints & Tips

Thought it would be useful to us to share some of those handy hints and tips we come across when playing with our RS's.

I'll manage this thread by compiling everyone's tips into this first post to create a resource for owners to refer to when planning jobs.

Add your top tips below...

Smoooooooooooooooth Running RS - poor starting & rough idling fix

The RS has had a little trouble starting-up lately. I thought it was down to the recent colder and damper weather. The engine would start but then the revs would start hunting up and down, then the engine would stall. It always took a few restarts and sitting for 30 seconds trying to keep the revs above 1000rpm to keep the engine running.

I guessed there was an air leak somewhere on the intake side of the engine. So, I systematically tightened every hose clamp and jubilee clip on the intake system. Not too tight so the rubber isn't stressed, just a 1/4 or 1/2 turn on each clamp to take up a few years of slack. Don't forget the clamps where the intake manifolds join with the top of the heads.

The difference is amazing. The car now starts immediately on the turn of the key and settles to a smooth idle straight away. The engine is running a lot smoother and even seems a little quieter at idle - no more hunting, no cutting out, no rough idling and no longer lumpy.

If you're having trouble with a difficult start and rough idle try tightening all those hose clamps before throwing cash at your local specialist.



Changing Rear Engine Lid Struts


Get someone to hold the cover up for you.. a wooden prop is likely to fall off and crack your head or trap your hand. As you remove one stut the other strut won't hold it up.

It also helps to wiggle the engine lid as this helps the pins move more freely out of the struts.

With the nearside one, you might have to take blower off to get at (which is a pain and time consuming). Or you might manage to do it removing only the airbox cover... "quite tough but managed it with long nose pliars, a torch, and a (grumpy) wife to hold up the engine lid cover."

Attach some wire to the end of the clips at the forward end of the struts before sliding them off the pins, so you can't drop them!



Jack your RS without damage


Buy a pack of ice hockey pucks and use them between the jack or axle-stands when raising the car to prevent damage to the underside.



Fuel smell when cornering / leaking fuel filler neck

For anybody changing the fuel filler neck to do away with the petrol smell problem - buy a big pair of circlip pliers first.

Did mine at the weekend and those ones with the interchangable heads are just not big enough. I managed to get the circlip off with them and a screwdriver but getting it back on was a real pain. In the end I used a grinding wheel on a large pair of needle nosed pliers. Now I need to buy new pliers as one tip broke off just as I got it back on.



Fuel filler popping up over bumps

If your petrol filler flap keeps popping up when you go over bumps, it is probably that the plastic catch has lost it's elasticity. The part number is 993.201.167.02 (yes, an updated part) and takes about 10 minutes to change. Undo the screw which holds the cable in and then unscrew the catch with a Philips screwdriver.

When you put the new one on, you can adjust the level of the filler flap with the Philips screw to get a good flush closed position for the flap.



Oil around filler neck

Ever suffered from oil around the filler neck ? I know of two cars suffering this, mine and another. Every track day there was oil on the chassis member beneath the oil filler cap.

It was the eagle eyed Paul who noticed a tiny dent in the rim of the filler neck, --- just big enough to evade the seal.

So, the filler neck was manhandled back to shape and the problem was solved.



Garage Queens


Heres a tip: Don't just polish your RS and put it back in the garage. Take it to a track, drive it as hard as you can...then put it back in the garage till next time



Clutch Roll Pin Replacement

Nice write-up thanks to Hugh: h________

First how do you know if you have this problem? Well if you press the clutch pedal, and the slave cylinder shaft doesnt move, likelihood is your roll pin has broken. (you will need the pedal board off to check this.

Part number N 0235511 (mine cost 67p so I bought 2! I felt guilty having the free cup of coffee)

Here's what you do.

1) Remove the floor pan/board (or if you have a RS carpet, well...you can work that bit out.). My floor board is secured by 3 x M5 hex holts
2) Remove the small ball-joint securing clip on the back of the throttle linkage, where it secures to the throttle pivot. To do this, reach behind the pedal, feel down the rod, and flick the clip around, it will now pull up and out.
3) pop the ball joint of the throttle linkage off.
4) Now you can see all 3 screws securing the pedal board (as one is hidden by the accelerator pedal. Unscrew these 3 screws (philips, with washers)
5) Remove pdeal board
6) Remove brake linkage clip, and take linkage off the pivot
7) Remove clutch linkage clip and take linkage off the pivot.
8) Undo 2* 13mm nuts securing clutch master cylinder
9) Pull down the connector for the brake light switch
10) Remove ball joint clip on the throttle -> throttle cable joint, push cable ball joint connector off.
11) Remove 4x 13mm nuts (and washers) that hold assembly to floor pan.
12) Lift assmebly forward and up (to clear studs), if tight remove throttle pedal (2 x 11mm nuts)
With whole assembly on the bench
13) Remove the clip on the clevis pin, that secures the clutch linkage to the clutch spring., and remove clevis pin.
14) Slide clutch pedal assembly out of shaft, and remove spring linkage.
15) Remove reminants of Roll pin, and clean holes.
16) Grease and reinsert clutch pedal mechanism, and attach spring linkage on the end. Align the holes.
17) Tap new roll pin in (A Birmingham Screwdrive may assist here )
18) Ensure roll pin is visible to the same extend from both sides.
19) Assembly is the reverse of removal (Always wanted to put that!)

Its worth cleaning the general area, and regreasing the other bushes on the pedal assembly at the same time. During reassembly, dont forget to ensure that all the clips are put back on correctly. The clutch pedal height can be adjusted by the long screw, with a small (4mm hex bolt) that is secured in the white spring carrier. Be careful not to move the clutch slave cylinder too much when lining backup, as it is attached to a solid pipe.




post edited by RSGulp - 2009/11/23 21:05:59


964 Carrera RS Lightweight - signed by Butzi
1973 911T
Owner of a 60L Gulf Ölfass

30 Replies Related Threads

    Stewart H
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    Stewart H PCGB Member
    RE: 964RS Hints & Tips 2007/10/28 20:47:21 (permalink)
    Nice one Rich. I've got to do the engine cover struts next weekend so I'll have a go at that whilst I'm at it.
    smallspeed
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    smallspeed Guest of the Club
    RE: 964RS Hints & Tips 2007/10/28 21:18:22 (permalink)
    if the engine cover struts are anything like the front hood get someone to hold the cover up for you.. I propped mine with some wood, which fell out as I pulled the n/s strut off its bottom mounting and nearly scissored my hand off in the mechanism; one strut won't hold it up
    Laurence Gibbs
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    Laurence Gibbs PCGB Member
    RE: 964RS Hints & Tips 2007/10/29 09:35:12 (permalink)
    it also helps to wiggle the engine lid as this helps the pins move more freely out of the struts. You will see what i mean when you try it.
    Damen
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    Damen Guest of the Club
    RE: 964RS Hints & Tips 2007/10/29 18:03:08 (permalink)
    Stewart
     
    Good luck with the nearside one, you'll have to take blower off to get at (which is a pain and time consuming).
     
    Damen
    Matt
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    Matt PCGB Member
    RE: 964RS Hints & Tips 2007/10/29 19:31:34 (permalink)
    ORIGINAL: Damen

    Stewart

    Good luck with the nearside one, you'll have to take blower off to get at (which is a pain and time consuming).

    Damen


    i managed to do it removing only the airbox cover....was quite tough but managed it with long nose pliars, a torch, and a (grumpy) wife to hold up the engine lid cover
    tat
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    tat PCGB Member
    RE: 964RS Hints & Tips 2007/10/31 12:10:18 (permalink)
    Attach some wire to the end of the clips at the forward end of the struts before sliding them off the pins, so you can't drop them!
     
    RSGulp
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    RSGulp PCGB Member
    RE: 964RS Hints & Tips 2007/10/31 12:37:49 (permalink)
    Thanks to all who have contributed so far. I've amended the original post and will compile everyone's tips there under subheads to create a useful resource.

    Melv, is it possible to pin this thread at the top?
    Also I remember you once wrote a great post about how to safely jack up an RS and put it on axle stands. Any chance of posting similar here?

    Keep that RS knowledge coming...
    post edited by RSGulp - 2007/10/31 12:40:30


    964 Carrera RS Lightweight - signed by Butzi
    1973 911T
    Owner of a 60L Gulf Ölfass
    Melv
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    Melv PCGB Member
    RE: 964RS Hints & Tips 2007/10/31 21:06:45 (permalink)
    Your wish Oh Great Polisher......

    Regards
    Mel
    Melvin Spear
    964RS Register Gruppenfuhrer

    Guardian of The Oscar Larrauri 1991 911 (964) Carrera 2 Cup
    Petrolhead and Travelller......
    www.flyingbluedog.co.uk

    Stewart H
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    Stewart H PCGB Member
    RE: 964RS Hints & Tips 2007/11/03 20:37:27 (permalink)
    Thanks for the tips on the struts guys - all changed in under an hour, including taking off the air filter (cone type) and blower. It did reveal a couple of things though. One of the bolts securing the blower is missing and an earth strap from the body to the left of the blower, as you look at it, is not connected to the engine? There is a tapped hole at about the right place which would be under the blower. Is this the right place for it to be connected? If so, I'll have to get a 6mm bolt and make things right.
    964RS
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    964RS PCGB Member
    RE: 964RS Hints & Tips 2008/06/06 16:55:34 (permalink)

    Paul - Race Register Secretary
    1993 968 CS Race Car
    1993 LHD 968 CS 'Custard'
    1991 964 N/GT
    1990 M700 964 Cup 'Kermit' Olaf Manthey Championship winning car 1990
    Juriic
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    Juriic Guest of the Club
    RE: 964RS Hints & Tips 2009/01/25 21:29:30 (permalink)
    Hello!
    I've seen many 964 RS with roll cage inside. Was the roll cage avaliable as original option from factory?
    Thanks in advance!
    h_____
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    h_____ Guest of the Club
    RE: 964RS Hints & Tips 2009/01/26 08:17:53 (permalink)
    The M003 came with factory welded roll cage......Not 100% sure for the carpets....will leave someelse to answer that.

    ***********
    964 NGT - club member 47841
    Imperfect line through Eau Rouge http://youtu.be/vmz_CqoeoY4
    carreraboy
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    carreraboy PCGB Member
    RE: 964RS Hints & Tips 2009/01/26 10:41:21 (permalink)
    No Carpets ... you just spend all that money and you worry about carpets!

    Club Member since 1973
    41, 911 to date 2.4E to GT3
    Modified Register Secretary
    - 1 - RSRTC🐿
    h_____
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    h_____ Guest of the Club
    RE: 964RS Hints & Tips 2009/01/26 10:42:46 (permalink)
    No, no, I mean I know the M003 had a roll cage, but didnt know if the standard RS (carpet) had the option of a cage

    ***********
    964 NGT - club member 47841
    Imperfect line through Eau Rouge http://youtu.be/vmz_CqoeoY4
    carreraboy
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    carreraboy PCGB Member
    RE: 964RS Hints & Tips 2009/01/26 10:47:22 (permalink)
    ORIGINAL: Juriic

    Hello!
    I've seen many 964 RS with roll cage inside. Was the roll cage avaliable as original option from factory?
    Thanks in advance!

     
    Yes matter half or full welded were options .....

    Club Member since 1973
    41, 911 to date 2.4E to GT3
    Modified Register Secretary
    - 1 - RSRTC🐿
    h_____
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    h_____ Guest of the Club
    RE: 964RS Hints & Tips 2009/05/05 08:01:55 (permalink)
    Did the struts this w/e too. just over 30mins, including taking blower motor and air box off.  Blower motor is secured by 2 bolts, one top one bottom and a jublee clip!  Not too hard, once you've found the bottom one.

    ***********
    964 NGT - club member 47841
    Imperfect line through Eau Rouge http://youtu.be/vmz_CqoeoY4
    Stewart H
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    Stewart H PCGB Member
    RE: 964RS Hints & Tips 2009/05/05 23:07:35 (permalink)
    For anybody changing the fuel filler neck to do away with the petrol smell problem - buy a big pair of circlip pliers first.
     
    Did mine at the weekend and those ones with the interchangable heads are just not big enough. I managed to get the circlip off with them and a screwdriver but getting it back on was a real pain. In the end I used a grinding wheel on a large pair of needle nosed pliers. Now I need to buy new pliers as one tip broke off just as I got it back on.
    Stewart H
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    Stewart H PCGB Member
    RE: 964RS Hints & Tips 2009/05/05 23:12:13 (permalink)
    Another tip.
     
    If your petrol filler flap keeps popping up when you go over bumps, it is probably that the plastic catch has lost it's elasticity. The part number is 993.201.167.02 (yes, an updated part) and takes about 10 minutes to change. Undo the screw which holds the cable in and then unscrew the catch with a Philips screwdriver.
     
    When you put the new one on, you can adjust the level of the filler flap with the Philips screw to get a good flush closed position for the flap.
    ChrisW
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    ChrisW PCGB Member
    RE: 964RS Hints & Tips 2009/05/06 00:39:19 (permalink)
    Another tip.

    Ever suffered from oil around the filler neck ?

    I know of two cars suffering this, mine and another.

    Every track day there was oil on the chassis member beneath the oil filler cap.

    It was the eagle eyed Paul who noticed a tiny dent in the rim of the filler neck, --- just big enough to evade the seal.

    So, the filler neck was manhandled back to shape and the problem was solved.

    But, how could two cars suffer this when the rims of both were protected by the oil filler caps ?

    A mystery ....
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