Hello, the rear spoiler warning light has just illuminated. I have done nothing yet, but would value some advice or wisdom as to what could be wrong and any potential solutions please. I have pushed the spoiler button and the wing is not raising. Thank you, Duncan [mem 1953]
Rear spoiler failure warning light - 997.2 Turbo S
- Thread starter duncangould
- Start date
Had same problem- either pay £1000 + for new hydraulics or £30 to disconnect!!
One of my rams went a bit sleepy. I just decoded it out so the spoiler didn't go up and down as above. Makes you faster 
I have a turbo rear decklid for sale on 911uk.co.uk
You're welcome to make an offer for the hydraulic system as one of the rams is fine. Only the drivers side sleepy so you could easily use the good one. The rear decklid is at 9e Horley I bet they could also fit the ram that is in good order for you too so yours is up and running again. All you need to do is replace the bad ram not both []
I have a turbo rear decklid for sale on 911uk.co.uk
You're welcome to make an offer for the hydraulic system as one of the rams is fine. Only the drivers side sleepy so you could easily use the good one. The rear decklid is at 9e Horley I bet they could also fit the ram that is in good order for you too so yours is up and running again. All you need to do is replace the bad ram not both [
]Thanks, I am wondering what diagnostics i can undertake? The rams are not leaking at all. The fuse appears to be ok. Could it be anything from the loom to the elevator motor to the hydraulic cylinders etc? I understand new parts are mega expensive so i would rather try and discover if one item is at fault and repair / replace; your thoughts are very welcomed as always. Thank you, Duncan
duncangould said:
Check with your local region / club night - a few folk around with access to various diagnostic kit ( including dealer level stuff ) - someone will likely scan for the price of a beer.....
Or - say whereabouts you are located - someone may be near enough for a drive out to get it scanned.....
Thanks for the PM.
Without taking it apart you're not going to know. Yes it could be electrical but I'd say its hydraulic almost 90%. The rams do not fail together if you get the car down to 9e or similar there is defo someone there to patch up a hack for you using my good parts as my passenger side ram fine. I just decoded it really doesn't bother me the spoiler going up and down.
Mines been tuned a bit and i can confirm it makes little or no noticeable difference at 215mph to me. Just a Porsche gimmick tbh. Is v.cool though the active spoiler stuff. Funnily enough my 991 turbo s active spoilers now messing about and not working. I find it all a pain but under warranty so 991 booked in...all these active aero bits just more to go wrong. Kr Victor Meldrew.
Without taking it apart you're not going to know. Yes it could be electrical but I'd say its hydraulic almost 90%. The rams do not fail together if you get the car down to 9e or similar there is defo someone there to patch up a hack for you using my good parts as my passenger side ram fine. I just decoded it really doesn't bother me the spoiler going up and down.
Mines been tuned a bit and i can confirm it makes little or no noticeable difference at 215mph to me. Just a Porsche gimmick tbh. Is v.cool though the active spoiler stuff. Funnily enough my 991 turbo s active spoilers now messing about and not working. I find it all a pain but under warranty so 991 booked in...all these active aero bits just more to go wrong. Kr Victor Meldrew.
The removal on the 997 Gen 1 and 2 is relatively easy if you remove the hydraulic system prior to trying to remove the spoiler blade i.e as if the blade is in the down position and immovable. I have sent my system to P-Speed in Germany. Here is a guide I put together:
Orientation. The left and right are the sides as you face the engine compartment.
Tools
10mm socket with extension piece and ratchet
Torx tool and T10, 22, and 45 bits
11 and 12 mm spanners
Circlip pliers
Small flat headed screwdriver
Special C-spanner well covered in plastic tape
Note: No zip ties need cutting.
Orientation. The left and right are the sides as you face the engine compartment.
Tools
10mm socket with extension piece and ratchet
Torx tool and T10, 22, and 45 bits
11 and 12 mm spanners
Circlip pliers
Small flat headed screwdriver
Special C-spanner well covered in plastic tape
Note: No zip ties need cutting.
- Place a cloth or old blanket across the entire engine bay and adjacent bodywork to prevent hydraulic fluid contacting paintwork and any loss of bolts. Place removed parts into labelled containers for safe-keeping.
- Remove both plastic intercooler air intakes by pulling on the small plastic plugs. The use of a flat headed screwdriver may be needed. Put air intakes to one side.
- Remove the fan. Using a Torx T22 (? 23) tool, remove the 4 retaining bolts and place all to one side. Between the fan and bolts are 4 thick rubber washers, be careful not to lose these. The fan motor wiring needs disconnecting and the wiring easing from the housing.
- Using a 10mm socket, remove the 4 bolts holding the motor unit and ease out the unit, hydraulic lines and wiring from the deck lid. Put the 4 bolts to one side. The wires to the motor should be eased off. The red and black connectors are of a different size and therefore can only be re-connected to the appropriate terminals.
- Hydraulic rams. Pull off both left and right black caps to the ram units and put to one side, you may find some hydraulic fluid within or coating the caps. Place a 12mm spanner over the brass nut at the ram end to hold in place; do not turn this nut. Use a 11 mm spanner to loosen the steel nut holding in place the hydraulic line end-piece and loosen. Hydraulic fluid will probably escape, therefore try to catch this in a receptacle or with a paper towel. Remove the steel bolt whilst holding the brass bolt in place. There are 2 thin brass washers either side of the hydraulic line terminals, be careful not to lose these.
- Circlip removal. The circlip is difficult to see, but it is there. For each ram and using quality grip release circlip pliers, remove the circlip. You may need the assistance of another person to ease the circlip gently off with a small screwdriver, as it can be difficult to remove with the circlip pliers alone. Be careful at this stage as the circlip may spring off and be lost. Put the circlips to one side. Once the circlip is removed the ram is now mobile in the housing. There is a larger black washer (spring ring) which should not be removed under the circlip, do not allow this to fall away. With the hydraulic line now free replace the steel bolt with the 2 copper washers hand tight into the ram. Keep the circlips safe.
- Loosen but do not remove the 3 bolts securing the ram cylinder housing units to the deck with a Torx T 45 tool.
- Lower and close the engine lid and with the assistance of another person, gently pull up the spoiler and remove. Place the spoiler, with the ram struts facing up, on a towel or blanket taking care not to scratch any paintwork. Take the C-spanner covered in tape and align the hole in the outer sleeve of the spoiler strut with the hole in the inner strut and then unscrew from the spoiler lid by turning the C-spanner in an anti-clockwise direction. Take great care not to scratch the spoiler paint work whilst using the C-spanner.
- Open the engine bay lid and continue to remove both ram cylinder housings using the Torx T45 tool. Keep the 6 securing bolts in a safe place.
- The right-hand ram housing unit has the microswitch unit attached which needs removal. Remove the black plastic housing by easing off. You may need to use a small flat-headed screwdriver to gently assist the removal. Use a small T 10 Torx bit to loosen the 2 screws affixing the microswitch unit to the right ram. Be careful not to lose the small screws and after removal place some tape over them to hold them to the microswitch unit.
- Place the ram struts removed from the spoiler into the corresponding ram cylinder housings. Tape the circlips to the ram cylinder housings for transportation to P-speed.
- You will now have the motor unit and hydraulic lines and the 2 ram units with spoiler struts and circlips, which should all be carefully packed and sent to P-speed.
- You can replace and reconnect the fan and safely secure the microswitch wiring to the deck should you wish to drive the car.
Duncan
I had a similar problem in the early days of owning my 997.2 turban cab.
The display said spoiler control failure or similar.
I raised it manually one day to wash under it and could hear the rams as they lifted. They sounded dry so I lubricated them by dipping my finger in some new engine oil and then smearing on the extended rams.
This worked for me. I wiped the rams every time I washed the car as the oil picked up dust etc.
I repeated the lubrication a couple of times a year.
Of course your car may have a different problem but this was the cure for mine.
I had a similar problem in the early days of owning my 997.2 turban cab.
The display said spoiler control failure or similar.
I raised it manually one day to wash under it and could hear the rams as they lifted. They sounded dry so I lubricated them by dipping my finger in some new engine oil and then smearing on the extended rams.
This worked for me. I wiped the rams every time I washed the car as the oil picked up dust etc.
I repeated the lubrication a couple of times a year.
Of course your car may have a different problem but this was the cure for mine.
duncangould said:
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