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Porsche 964 c2 total electrical failure - any ideas ?

L

lisawilliams100

New member
Hi im new to the club and only had my 964 8 months - to date no problems at all, however went to take her out yesterday everything lit up when i turned the key to the first position 1 , but when i went to the start position all electrics died , its like the battery has been disconnected. Ps the battery is fully charged and is maintained by a battery conditioner. The car has only done 60k miles with FSH and was last serviced in March. - any ideas ?
 
Hi,
I had something similar happen where the Bakelite electrical housing that has the ignition switch electrical connections attached became detached from the back of the ignition switch. It's a bit difficult to get to, I had to remove the lower dash panel and was able to zip-tie the electrical component back onto the ignition switch assembly to get me home. This happened years ago and I've never pulled the dash to bits again. Will get around to replacing the switch module one of these days.
Your problem may or may not be the same but hope this helps.
Cheers,
William,
Brisbane, Australia
964 Targa C2
 
Hi,

In addition to Bill964, things I would check are the battery, although on a conditioner, I have experience of a battery where the conditioner killed the battery on a car which was totally dead, I swore blind that it was not a battery issue until I was pushed to try a new one and hey presto, the car worked. The conditioner did something to my battery, it still showed 12v with a volt meter but under load, there was nothing. So would be worth double checking it.

Just to confirm, is there literally no power what so ever, so clock has now stopped?

Secondly, dying at the point of starting, where the electrical system is under huge load, could be a sign that something was finished off or simply a bad earth which has now failed. Earth points are weak points due to corrosion, so I would check those, mainly the battery to chassis and starter motor.

Good luck
Mark


 
Hi ,
I would say all of the above ( as I had to replace the ignition switch way back , as they wears out ..30+ years af on & off ) but more likely the issue is the battery is its low on amps – CCA - cold Cranking Amps is the measurement these days
Unless your battery conditioner can test this , you will be charging a black hole for ever even a CTEK will just keep charging and reporting all is good ..been there and got the tee shirt !
I brought a CCA battery tester and suddenly it told me the battery was very low on CCA ( not enough AMPs to start ..you need approx. 500+ ) , but my CTEK was charging it quite happily .
Replace the battery and all was fine
Car Earth and battery connection need checking as well as they could be loose

Great little tool …education yourself on a battery without having to use a short circuit tester which is not very friendly for modem battery’s
[h3]SEALEY BT01 DIGITAL BATTERY & ALTERNATOR TESTER 12V[/h3] [/h1]
 
Has it got the Hamilton & Palmer immobiliser/alarm with the key socket in the steering wheel shroud because the only time I ever experienced a similar fault was when 2 Lucar female connectors from the receiver to the small black box behind the A post trim fell off the receiver terminals for some inexplicable reason-only 10mins earlier I had used the car to go to the post
when all was normal.
 
Hi Bill
Thankyou for your thoughts i have been fault finding this afternoon and to my amazement t was the battery. It’s showing 12.65v on my meter but under load 3.4v - have now changed the battery all working well i wish all problems was this easy !!!!

cheers mike

Bill964 said:
Hi,
I had something similar happen where the Bakelite electrical housing that has the ignition switch electrical connections attached became detached from the back of the ignition switch. It's a bit difficult to get to, I had to remove the lower dash panel and was able to zip-tie the electrical component back onto the ignition switch assembly to get me home. This happened years ago and I've never pulled the dash to bits again. Will get around to replacing the switch module one of these days.
Your problem may or may not be the same but hope this helps.
Cheers,
William,
Brisbane, Australia
964 Targa C2
Click to expand...


 
Thanks to all who put forward suggestions - it was a total battery failure could not believe it never seen it before but glad to get it sorted !!!!!!!

cheers mike
 
Perfect , exactly as I thought , I can’t recommend more highly the SEALEY BT01 DIGITAL BATTERY & ALTERNATOR TESTER 12V , it will allow you to dignose battery issues months before you can’t start an engine .
Works on any 12v battery type, old types & the newer generations etc
Battery’s have moved on from just acid filled and been able to check the Acid levels …most these days are sealed , gel or AGM based so your blind, unless you can measure the CCA .
 
Good stuff. Just out of interest (working alternator reassurance I guess), engine idling and all electrical items on (full beam lights, wipers, heater etc) what meter v reading are you getting across your new battery terminals? Also, how old was your previous duff battery?
 
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