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Manual gearbox oil change

Mike1960

Member
Hi,
next job I am going to do is to change the gearbox oil on my 2010 987.2 manual.
Can I get confirmation on some assumptions I have made.

Can I can do it with the car on Jack stands, albeit with me lying on my back?

Will 3 litres of Mobil 1 will be enough?

Finally, while I am under there is there anything else worth checking while I have the transmission cover off?

Thanks Mike
 
You need about 9 litres Suggest you read your manual Ensure you use a genuine Porsche Filter and new sump plug washer I use Shell Optimax Professional 5w 40 (Recommended for older cars by OPCs) You van get this from Eurocar parts buy when its on 50% (I buy 20 litres enough for 2 changes and spare) usually the same price as 10 Drain the Oil and Filter leave at least 1/2 an hour to drain Replace Filter (Fill with oil) and Sump Plug - new washer Check required amount in your Manual and add about 90% of that leave to stand for 1/2 hour (CRITICAL) Some 987.2 engines require engine running so if so start engine and check level The GTS does but not sure about yours VERY SLOWLY ADD OIL about 1/4 litre at a time and re- check The 987.2 is MUCH more sophisticated than earlier engines and quite frankly if you are not sure I would get it done by a specialist

 
Mike,

I hope you're not thinking of using Mobil 1 engine oil in the gearbox..! An extreme pressure oil is required, but I seem to recall that the official Porsche recommended oil is impossible to buy in small quantities (around 3-litres should be sufficient). Opie Oils https://www.opieoils.co.uk/ will be able to advise you about an alternative (75W-90?).

As long as the car is supported horizontally on the jacks there shouldn't be a problem. While you're underneath you could check the condition of gearchange cable and joints.

Jeff

 
Hi,

I seem to have created some confusion by mentioning Mobil 1. The stuff I am using is Mobil Mobilube 1 SHC 75W-90 Fully Synthetic Gear Oil. I got 3 litres for about £43. It was recommended by Opie oil so I was happy to use it. I will cast an eye over the gear change cables while I am under the car.

I am also looking for a small water leak of about a tea cup every 3K Miles so not a big problem. I cleared out the radiator area last week and couldn’t see anything dodgy there, but would like to find it and nip it in the bud early.

The car is in for a major service at Zuffenhaus in a couple of months and over the winter I am trying to do all the other bits that I wanted to do. So that after the service I can get back to driving it, rather than taking it apart and then putting it back together.

Regards

Mike

 
Hi Mike,

I changed the gearbox on my 987.1 last year using Mobil 1 SHC 75W-90. I bought 3 x 1 litre bottles from Amazon and it was more than enough. You can do it with the car level on axle stands but you will need a syringe as the fill hole is above you and you need to fill it until it runs out. My car had done about 98k when I did it but I didn’t notice any difference. I hope that helps.

Cheers

Paul

 
Hi Paul,

thanks for the response.

I have an pump to get the oil into the gearbox.

I am waiting for a dry day to do it. While I have the car on jacks and waiting for the oil to drain, I will remove the wheels and give them a good clean.

My garage is not large enough to get around the car with lifting equipment. So will need to do this on the drive.

I‘ve found little info or advise for a 2010 car so may post some after I have finished.

Kind regards

Mike

 
Mike,

Just to say that I would imagine that any information you can find for the Gen1 Boxster/Cayman would be applicable. I don't think that the manual transmission was changed for the Gen2 cars, other than the option of an LSD. According to the PETs, the part numbers are either the same or very similar for both Gens.

Jeff

 
Why change the oil?

Is it a service schedule item?

My 987.2 is 59 plate/60k miles and is sound. Have I missed something?

 
Hi,

No you haven’t missed something. The car is a 10 reg with 32k Miles. I got it after it had been stored for a few years with no service history apart from the one before I picked it up. So I am going through a lot of stuff, more for my own peace of mind than anything else.

Up to now I have not found anything wrong with it apart from the drains in the battery compartment were blocked. I’ve replaced the audio, put in a new SSK, reversing camera and better headlights. I get the impression that I am the first person to take it apart, other than simple servicing.

I am over the moon with it and hope after the next service to call a halt to the improvements and just drive the wheels off it over the summer. Regards

Mike

 
Thank you Mike.

Im in a different boat to you with mine, I'm trying to get things on an even keel, almost there!

GOOD IDEA to drive the nuts off it, I should too!

 
I've just changed the gearbox oil on my 2006 987S Cayman. I bought the car last year and, despite being 16 years old and having been serviced regularly, there was no evidence it had been done. The manual states it should be changed at 12 years or 120K. The oil which came out looked fine, but was a caramel colour and had a 'burnt' smell as might be expected. I passed the waste oil over a magnet and there was no sign of any swarf whatsoever after 51K miles, which I'll take as a good sign.

I've refilled it with Castrol 75W/90 supplied by Opie oils (didn't see Mobil as an option on their site and rate Castrol more than Mobil generally anyhow) and it's taken a full 3 litres, minus maybe 50ml in spillage and stuck to the sides of the containers, without any coming out of the fill plug. I assume therefore that the car can't be quite level and I'll settle for the 2.9L capacity stated as being accurate.

I'll let you know what this lot looks like in 12 tears time.......

 
Garage Tech have just done a good youtube video on how to change the gearbox oil

[link]https://youtu.be/pXY3VFg4yHw[/url]

 
Geaton said:
This post got me thinking about the need for an oil change so will watch the YouTube first to get an idea of what’s involved 👍
It's a really easy job to be honest. Just remove all of the nuts and bolts from the aluminium cover and the two bracing struts. There's no need to remove the struts as they will drop sufficiently to allow the cover to be slid out.

Once the cover is out of the way it's simply a job of using a 10mm hex to remove the filler and then the drain plugs. Allow the oil to drain fully before replacing the drain plug and then refilling with 2.9L of oil. Replace the filler plug, the cover and struts and you're all done.

I did take the opportunity to apply some Lanoguard (like Waxoil but MUCH better) to the steel cross-member inside and out whilst I had the cover off as this is about the only thing on the car with the faintest sign of rust forming on it.

 

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