Axle stand placement
- Thread starter DWaldie
- Start date
I’ve just done mine, using a jack and one wheel at a time. All done over two days with cleaning and sealant curing time for two coats per wheel.
If you go to www.porscheownermanuals.com and manage to find the 2013 - 2016 Cayman one, you’ll find details on page 225. I’m sure I ought to be able to copy it and post here but regret I can’t work out how to do so!
Best of luck,
Gordon.
Best of luck,
Gordon.
There are 4 designated lifting points on your car, at the front and rear of the sills and slightly inboard. Although this link is for a 986 Boxster, it should be applicable for your 981:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/01-BASICS-Jacking_Up/01-BASICS-Jacking_Up.htm
Jeff
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/01-BASICS-Jacking_Up/01-BASICS-Jacking_Up.htm
Jeff
Gorsh
New member
The issue here is (I think) that the jack is occupying the lifting point, so where does one put an axle stand at that corner of the car? It's something I've sometimes wondered about - someone will know the solution? Edit - just read the pelican link above and it seems there is an alternative place for the jack so the stand can go under the main jacking point - I assume this is similar on later 981/991 cars?
Yep, I think that's what I'll resort to. I was hoping to lift the whole of the front then repeat at the back. I do have two trolley jacks, so I could chance it with the axle stands as you describe. Just made a couple of jack pads to fit my jacks and the jacking points on the car. At least it should sit well on the trolley jacks.mr pg said:
All for the sake of clean wheels
Hi,
I've used the same method as Briggy, and jacked one end of the car high enough to get a stand under the other end.
Gary
I've used the same method as Briggy, and jacked one end of the car high enough to get a stand under the other end.
Gary
Yes, that'll work. I was taking off my front bumper to clear the rads and fit mesh, so just took off both front wheels.
Gary
Gary
MattDC2 said:
Just finished my last wheel. In the end, I used two jacks, one at the front and one at the rear. The rear is a low profile one and the front normal. Jacked the car up with the low-profile to get the normal one under the front and removed both wheels. Once off, lowered the front jack to the bottom of it's reach and the car was around it's normal height and lowered the rear while I did the wheels. The car was stable and couldn't fall any further
I picked up four ice hockey pucks to use as pads. They are really good.As far as the ceramic coating is concerned, I used Gtechniq Wheel armour, but only for the wheel faces. There might just have been enough for the whole four wheels, but I didn't want to risk it. For the barrels, I have used an Auto Finesse product. Application was easy, but the prep (fallout removal, compounding, polishing and de-greasing) was labourious. But strangely therapeutic
Following some advice from Jeff, I used some Wurth Silver Wheel paint to touch up the odd chip.
Time will tell how well they work.
Briggy
PCGB Member
I can now raise 2 wheels at the same time i.e. both fronts or a rear and a front. I've bought a jacking beam https://www.cjautos.eu/product_p/cl05.htm This allows the stands on the end to fit under 2 jacking points, then raise by putting the jack in the middle. Once high enough, just put axle stands under the beam and drop it down.
Of course, nothing's quite that simple..... You can't get the beam under the car, due to lack of clearance. So, I made a ramp from a wooden sleeper and reversed onto it, which allows the beam to fit under the jacking points and enough room for the jack under the beam. Instead of axle stands, I actually only raised the car enough for the wheels to clear the wooded ramp, then pushed the ramps inside the wheels and lowered the car onto the ramps. I also used a spacer in the form of a dumbbell weight.
Front :
Of course, nothing's quite that simple..... You can't get the beam under the car, due to lack of clearance. So, I made a ramp from a wooden sleeper and reversed onto it, which allows the beam to fit under the jacking points and enough room for the jack under the beam. Instead of axle stands, I actually only raised the car enough for the wheels to clear the wooded ramp, then pushed the ramps inside the wheels and lowered the car onto the ramps. I also used a spacer in the form of a dumbbell weight.
Front :
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